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ECLECTIC    SCHOOL  "READINGS 


ALICE  S  VISIT 

TO  THE 

HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

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http://www.archive.org/details/alicesvisittohawOOkrourich 


ECLECTIC  SCHOOL   READINGS 


ALICE'S   VISIT 


TO 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


BY 


MARY    H.    KROUT 

AUTHOR   OF  "HAWAII  AND  A  REVOLUTION,"   "A   LOOKER-ON 

^MEBICAN  BOOK  CO 

^^iL£5A_NCISCO 


NEW  YORK  •:•  ClNCIi^NATJ  >  Cm^AC^OX  %  ,'\ 

AMERICAN    BOOK    COMPANY 


-DU-fcZi 


Copyright,  1900,  by 
AMERICAN  BOOK  COMPANY. 

K  rout's   HAWAII. 

W.   P.   4 

EDUCATION  DEFfs 


etc 


PREFACE 

Since  the  Hawaiian  Islands  have  now  become  a  part 
of  the  United  States,  and  henceforth  their  history  will 
be  a  part  of  our  own,  it  is  important  that  the  children 
in  our  schools  should  learn  something  of  the  geography 
of  these  islands,  and  of  the  manners,  custom.s,  and 
history  of  the  people  who  inhabit  them. 

In  writing  this  imaginary  journey  to  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  I  have  described  the  country  and  the  people  as 
they  were  studied  by  me  during  two  actual  visits.  The 
volcano  of  Kilauea  was  at  the  time  of  my  visit  in  a  state 
of  great  activity,  and  the  account  which  I  have  given  of 
the  wonderful  spectacle  was  prepared  from  notes  writ- 
ten within  sight  of  the  crater. 

The  history  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  though  re- 
stricted as  to  scene  of  action,  has  been  as  stirring  and 
as  dramatic  as  our  own.  Within  a  century  the  islands 
were  conquered  and  brought  under  one  government, 
during  which  time  the  race  advanced  steadily  from 
barbarism  to  civilization. 

The  people  are  now  to  undertake  that  last  and 
greatest  of  political  experiments,  self-government,  for 
which  their  alliance  with  the  United  States  during  the 
past  fifty  years  has  been  an  excellent  preparation. 


The  study  of  Hawaiian  evolution  affords  such  a 
variety  of  incident  that  it  is  somewhat  difficult  to  decide, 
in  the  preparation  of  a  book  for  children,  what  to  reject 
and  what  to  utilize.  It  is  necessary,  on  the  one  hand, 
to  consider  the  importance  of  customs  in  shaping  the 
destiny  of  the  people,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  to  bear  in 
mind  the  consequence  of  filling  the  impressionable 
minds  of  children  with  painful  images  and  with  facts 
that  they  cannot  reconcile  with  justice. 

What  has  been  said  of  the  influence  of  the  American 
missionaries,  as  the  first  educators  and  lawmakers 
among  the  Hawaiians,  is  simply  a  statement  of  facts 
which  may  be  corroborated  by  reference  to  the  archives 
of  the  country. 

Among  books  that  have  been  especially  helpful  in 
the  preparation  of  this  work  have  been  J.  J.  Jarves's 
"Hawaiian  or  Sandwich  Islands,"  W.  D.  Alexander's 
"  A  Brief  History  of  the  Hawaiian  People,"  Mrs.  Judd's 
"Honolulu,"  Mrs.  Isabella  Bird  Bishop's  "Six  Months 
in  the  Sandwich  Islands,"  and  "The  Hawaiian  Annual." 

M.  H.  K. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

I.    The  Voyage "      .        .11 

II.    Honolulu 18 

III.  The  Drive  to  Waikiki 29 

IV.  Grass  Houses 38 

V.    Hawaiian  Customs 44 

VI.    The  Pali 49 

VII.    The  Visit  to  Hilo 55 

VIII.  The  Road  to  the  Volcano         ....      60 

IX.    In  the  Crater 69 

X.  The  Story  of  Kapiolani     .        .        .        .        •76 

XI.    The  Feast 79 

XII.    A  Sugar  Plantation 83 

XIII.  Maui 90 

XIV.  The  Story  of  Captain  Cook      ....      96 
XV.  Kauai  and  the  Koula  Falls      .        .        .        .103 

XVI.  An  Interesting  Scotch  Family  ....     109 

XVII.    The  Market iii 

XVIII.     Sandalwood 115 

XIX.    Insects 118 

XX.    Captain  Vancouver 122 

XXL    The  First  Missionaries 124 

XXII.  More  about  the  Missionaries    ....    129 

9 


10 


XXIII.  The  Old  Mission  House    . 

XXIV.  The  Story  of  Boki  and  Liliha 
XXV.  "The  Life  of  the  Land". 

XXVI.  Mrs.  Judd    .        .        .        . 

XXVII.  MOLOKAI   AND   THE   LePERS 

XXVIII.  Father  Damien  . 

XXIX.  A  Visit  to  Father  Damien 

XXX.  loLANi  Palace    . 

XXXI.  Kapiolani 

XXXII.  An  Ostrich  Farm 

XXXIII.  Hawaiian  Schools 

XXXIV.  The  Chinese  and  their  Schools 
XXXV.  GOOD-BY    ...... 


135 

142 

145 
151 
156 

163 
167 
172 
180 
186 
191 
197 
202 


Pronunciation  of  Hawaiian  Names  and  Terms 


207 


ALICE'S   VISIT  TO  THE  HAWAIIAN 
ISLANDS 

I.   THE  VOYAGE 

IF,  at  the  time  when  this  story  begins,  some  one  had 
come  to  AHce  Earle  and  offered  to  fulfill  her  dearest 
wish,  she  would  have  asked,  without  a  moment's  hesita- 
tion, for  a  trip  to  Ha-wai'-i.  For  there  was  nothing  in  the 
world  she  liked  better  than  traveling,  and  lately  she  had 
heard  so  much  about  Hawaii  that  this  was  now  the  place 
of  all  places  she  most  longed  to  see.  Imagine  her  de- 
light, then,  when  she  was  told  that  her  parents  had  de- 
cided to  take  her  with  them  on  a  visit  to  the  Ha-wai'ian 
Islands. 

Alice  was  a  clever  little  girl,who  knew  much  more  about 
geography  than  most  children  of  her  age.  She  was  fond 
of  searching  for  strange  cities  and  countries  on  the  maps 
in  her  father's  library.  She  had  been  told  that  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  lie  almost  in  the  middle  of  the  great 
Pacific  Ocean,  and,  after  a  careful  search,  she  found  them 
on  the  map,  —  a  cluster  of  tiny  specks  not  so  large  as  the 
letters  of  their  name.  The  specks  were  so  very  small  that 
it  was  hard  for  her  to  realize  that  Hawaii,  the  island  for 
which  the  group  was  named,  is  as  large  as  the  state  of 
Connecticut,  and  that  upon  another  island  of  the  group, 


12 

0-a'hu,   there  is  a  city    called  Hon-o-lu'lu,  which  has 
over  twenty  thousand  inhabitants. 

Her  father  told  her  that  the  group  consists  of  eight 
large  islands,  besides  several  barren  rocks.  These  eight 
islands  are  covered  with  forests  and  plantations  —  great 
cultivated  tracts  of  land  upon  which  sugar  cane  is 
raised.     Upon  all  there  are  high  mountain  ridges,  with 


Copyright,  1899,  ly  C.  C.  Langill. 

Eruption  of  Mauna  Loa  in   1899 

peaks  that  are,  or  have  been,  volcanoes.  Volcanoes  are 
mountains  having  near  their  top  an  opening  in  the 
earth  through  which  heated  materials  issue  forth  — 
streams  of  melted  rock  or  lava,  ashes,  mud,  water, 
steam,  and  gases.  A  part  of  each  island,  at  some 
time,  has  been  buried  under  this  lava,  which  hardens 
as  it  cools,  and  upon  which  very  few  plants  can  grow. 

On  Hawaii,  the  largest  island,  two  of  the  mountains, 
Mau'na   Ke'a  and   Mau'na   Lo'a,  are   nearly  fourteen 


thousand  feet  high,  and   their   tops    are  covered  with 
snow  that  never  melts. 

Alice  lived  in  Chicago,  and  she  was  to  start  on  her 
long  journey  on  the  first  of  February.  It  was  very  cold, 
and  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow  and  ice.  It 
seemed  strange  to  see  her  mother  putting  into  the  trunk 
the  thin  gowns  which  she  wore  only  in  the  summer;  but 


Interior  of  a  Pullman  Car 


she  was  told  that  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands  it  is  never 
cold  except  high  up  on  the  mountains,  and  that  most 
of  the  time  she  would  have  to  wear  her  light  muslin 
gowns. 

Once  Alice  had  crossed  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  her 
way  to  England  with  her  mother  and  father,  and  now 
as  they  took  their  seats  in  the  Pullman  car,  for  the  long 
ride  from  Chicago  to  California,  she  had  the  same  feel- 
ing of  excitement. 


14 

They  left  Chicago  at  night,  and  when  Alice  awoke  in 
the  morning  they  were  crossing  a  lofty  bridge  over  the 
Mississippi,  which  was  the  broadest  river  Alice  had  ever 
seen.  She  was  much  interested  in  the  pretty  towns  and 
villages  in  Iowa,  with  their  rich  farms  and  comfortable 
houses.  At  Council  Bluffs  there  was  another  bridge, 
over  the  Missouri  River.  There  are  many  bluffs  upon 
the  shores  of  this  river,  and  on  one  of  them  the  Indian 
tribes  long  ago  held  their  meetings  which  gave  the  city, 
Council  Bluffs,  its  name. 

By  the  time  they  reached  the  borders  of  Iowa  they 
had  left  the  snow  behind  them,  and  as  they  went  farther 
and  farther  west,  Alice  expected  to  see  the  steep  summits 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  she  knew  they  were  to 
ascend.  This,  she  thought,  would  be  no  easy  task  for  a 
long  train  of  cars ;  but  as  yet  the  plains  stretched  about 
them  on  every  side,  apparently  level  and  unbroken. 
She  did  not  know  that  they  were  mounting  higher  and 
higher  every  moment,  and  but  for  an  immense  stone 
which  had  been  placed  to  mark  the  highest  point, 
she  would  never  have  known  when  they  reached  the 
top. 

As  they  passed  over  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains 
Alice  saw  the  snow  piled  many  feet  high  along  the 
tracks.  But  when  early  the  next  morning  she  lifted  the 
curtain  and  looked  out,  it  seemed  as  though  spring  had 
come  upon  them  during  the  night,  for  they  were  de- 
scending into  the  green  Sacramento  valley,  with  its 
vineyards  and  almond  orchards.  The  trees  in  all  their 
glory  of  pink  blossoms  were  beautiful  to  behold. 

At  Oakland  they  left  the  train  and  crossed  the  bay  to 


15 

San  Francisco.  The  next  day  they  went  on  board  a 
ship  called  the  Mariposa,  a  Spanish  word  meaning 
"Butterfly." 

There  were  a  great  many  people  on  the  decks,  some 
about  to  sail,  and  others  who  had  come  to  see  them  off. 
Some  of  the  passengers  were  going  out  to  New  Zealand 
and  Australia,  far  beyond  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

Presently  a  little  Japanese  steward  beat  the  gong,  the 
visitors  went   ashore,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  .ship 


The  Golden  Gate 


began  to  move  slowly  from  the  dock  out  into  the  harbor 
and  toward  the  Golden  Gate.  Alice  had  heard  a  great 
deal  about  the  Golden  Gate ;  she  was  a  little  surprised 
to  find  that  it  was  not  a  real  gate,  but  two  high  cliffs 
that  rose  opposite  each  other  at  the  narrow  entrance  of 
the  bay.  The  ocean  was  just  outside,  and  it  was  dan- 
gerous for  ships  to  venture  through  the  narrow  opening 
except  in  broad  daylight.  Upon  the  ocean  the  water 
was  much  rougher  than  upon  the  bay,  where  the  high, 


i6 


steep  shores  afforded  shelter  from  the  wind ;  and  the 
Mariposa  rolled  and  tossed  about  upon  the  waves. 

Although  it  was  winter,  it  was  quite  warm,  and  Alice 
and  her  parents  were  able  to  stay  upon  the  deck  from 
the  moment  the  ship  left  the  dock. 

As  they  sailed  toward  the  south,  it  grew  warmer  every 
day,  and  Alice  was  soon  glad  to  take  off  her  heavy  serge 
dress  and  put  on  a  little  linen  frock.  She  liked  the 
Pacific  Ocean  much  better  than  the  Atlantic. 

When  she  went  to  England  she  sailed  from  New  York 
in  July,  but  as  soon  as  she  was  out  of  sight  of  land  it 
grew  cold  and  the  sea  became  very  rough.  There  was 
much  fog  and  rain,  and  she  had  scarcely  a  glimpse  of 
the  sun  until  the  shores  of  Ireland  were  in  sight.  The 
air  of  the  Pacific,  on  the  other  hand,  was  as  warm  and 
soft  in  February  as  in  June. 

For  the  first  few  days  great  flocks  of  snow-white  sea 
gulls  followed  the  ship ;  then  they  disappeared,  and 
numbers  of  brown  gulls  circled  about  the  vessel,  diving 
and   struggling  for  the  food   tossed   overboard  by  the 

passengers.  These 
birds  came  out  to 
meet  the  ship,  and 
flew  about  it  all  the 
way  to  Honolulu. 

Once  in  a  while 
Alice  saw,  a  long 
distance  off,  a  dark 
wavy  line,  show- 
ing just  above  the  water,  out  of  which  rose  a  slender 
stream  like  a  fountain ;    this  was  caused  by  a  whale 


Flying  Fish 


17 

spouting  water  high  into  the  air  through  its  nostrils. 
But  the  flying  fish  were  the  most  interesting  of  all. 
They  rose  from  the  dark  blue  waves  like  little  flocks  of 
snow-white  birds.  They  did  not  really  fly,  but  leaped 
out  of  the  water  with  great  force  and  were  borne  along 
by  their  wet  fins,  which  served  as  sails. 

When  the  voyage  was  nearly  at  an  end,  Mr.  Earle 
pointed  out  a  beautiful  bird  which  he  said  the  sailors 
call  the  ''boatswain  bird."  It  is  pure  white,  with  two 
long  feathers  in  the  tail  like  graceful  streamers.  It 
builds  its  nest  and  rears  its  young  in  high  cliffs  upon 
the  land,  and  its  wings  are  so  strong  that  it  can  fly  far 
out  to  sea  in  search  of  food. 

It  rained  very  often  as  the  vessel  approached  the 
Hawaiian  Islands,  but  the  warm,  bright  showers  were 
soon  over.  Sometimes  Alice  could  see  two  or  three 
black  clouds  just  above  the  sky,  out  of  which  the  rain 
was  streaming  in  long,  slanting  lines.  The  clouds  were 
really  many  miles  apart,  so  that  while  it  was  raining  in 
one  place,  the  sun  was  shining  in  another.  With  these 
frequent  showers  there  were  to  be  seen  beautiful  rain- 
bows. They  were  of  brilliant  hues,  red,  yellow,  green, 
blue,  and  violet,  each  color  separate  and  distinct,  and 
the  perfect  arch  seemed  to  spring  from  the  sea.  The 
islands  are  so  noted  for  their  beautiful  rainbows  that  the 
natives  called  them  "  The  Islands  of  Rainbows." 

The  first  land  that  was  sighted  was  the  island  of 
Mo-lo-kai^  It  looked,  in  the  distance,  like  a  huge  tor- 
toise resting  on  the  water.  Upon  this  island  many  poor 
people  are  confined  who  are  ill  with  a  terrible  disease, 
called  leprosy,  which  can  never  be  cured.     They  are 

KROUT'S   HAWAII  —  2 


i8 

sent  away  from  their  homes  on  the  other  islands,  so 
that  their  friends  and  relatives  may  not  be  in  danger  of 
catching  the  disease  from  them  and  becoming  lepers 
like  themselves. 

Oahu  appeared  still  farther  away.  The  coast  was 
very  bare  and  rugged,  seamed  and  rent  into  chasms, 
and  reddened  by  fierce  fires,  ages  before,  when  the 
island  had  been  violently  thrown  up  from  the  bed  of 
the  ocean. 

Upon  a  high,  rounded  crag  called  Ko'ko  Head,  there 
was  a  telephone  station.  When  ships  are  first  seen 
far  out  at  sea,  the  news  is  immediately  telephoned  to 
Honolulu,  and  it  is  soon  known  that  the  ship  has  arrived 
in  safety  and  that  the  voyage  is  over. 


3><KC 


II.     HONOLULU 

JUST  outside  the  harbor  of  Honolulu  a  pilot  came 
in  a  little  boat  to  meet  the  steamer  and  guide  it 
among  the  rocks  and  shallow  places  to  the  dock. 

A  number  of  dark-skinned  men  rowed  the  pilot's 
boat  with  great  ease  and  skill.  These  were  Hawaiians, 
the  race  of  people  born  in  the  Islands,  whose  ances- 
tors lived  there,  long  before  Hawaii  was  known  to 
Americans  or  Europeans.  They  wore  blue  or  white 
cotton  clothing ;  and  around  their  necks  and  hats  were 
hung  thick  wreaths  of  flowers,  which  they  called  leHs. 
When  they  reached   the   ship,  a   rope   ladder  was   let 


19 

down  over  the  side,  and  up  this  the  pilot  climbed  and 
leaped  on  deck. 

All  on  board  were  glad  to  see  him  and  they  asked 
him  a  great  many  questions,  for  they  had  been  at  sea 
for  eight  days  during  which  time  they  had  heard  no 
news  from  the   land. 

A  little  later  two  other  men  were  taken  on  board,  — 
the  customs  officer  and  the  health  officer.     It  is  the 


,_  _,„ 

m 

k^i^-^.:^^^£:'i^m  3^ 

^^^F^^iss^^^MJp! 

|gj||:' 

3;-:;— ^«:«^-i=-\~  .  - 

of  Honolulu 


business  of  the  health  officer  to  see  that  everybody 
on  the  ship  is  well.  Had  there  been  any  contagious 
disease  among  the  passengers,  the  ship  would  have 
been  anchored  out  in  the  harbor  near  an  island  called 
the  quarantine  station,  until  the  sick  people  were  well, 
and  there  was  no  danger  to  those  on  the  shore.  This 
is  very  necessary  in  Honolulu,  for  the  Hawaiians  catch 
contagious  diseases  very  easily,  and  great  numbers  of 
them  die. 


20 

Sometimes  the  ship  is  not  even  allowed  to  stop  at 
the  quarantine  station,  and  none  of  the  passengers  can 
go  ashore  except  those  whose  homes  are  in  the  Islands. 
Even  they  must  stay  at  the  quarantine  station  until 
the  health  officer  is  certain  that  they  are  quite  well, 
and  free  from  contagion. 

The  customs  officer  gave  Mr.  Earle  a  long  sheet  of 
paper  containing  a  great  many  questions  about  his  age, 
his  business,  the  country  in  which  he  was  born,  and  his 
family.  He  was  also  asked  if  he  had  brought  in  his 
trunk  any  articles  on  which  the  government  had  laid 
a  tax,  called  duty.  Alice  remembered  that  similar  ques- 
tions had  been  asked  them  in  Liverpool,  when  they 
went  to  England,  and  in  Calais,  when  they  went  across 
to  France.  In  Honolulu,  as  in  Liverpool,  in  Calais,  and 
in  New  York,  the  trunks  had  to  be  unlocked  so  that  the 
officers  might  see  what  they  contained. 

Alice  thought  that  she  had  never  seen  anything  more 
beautiful  than  the  harbor.  The  water  was  bluer  even 
than  the  ocean,  and  there  was  not  a  ripple  upon  its 
smooth  surface,  which  was  crossed  with  bands  of  pink, 
brown,  and  yellow.  There  was  a  long  line  of  ships 
along  the  dock.  The  captain  said  that  once  this 
line  of  ships  had  extended  along  the  shore  for  more 
than  a  mile,  and  that  they  lay  so  close  together  that 
a  man  could  step  from  one  deck  to  another.  They 
were  sailing  vessels  that  had  come  out  from  New 
England  to  catch  whales,  which  were  to  be  found  in 
great  numbers  in  the  ocean  south  of  the  Hawaiian 
Islands. 

The  beach  for  several  miles  beyond  the  city  curved 


21 


like  a  crescent  along  the  sea,  bordered  all  the  way  by 
groves  of  cocoa  palms.  These  trees  were  slender  and 
tall,  with  smooth  trunks  and  leaves  growing  in  the  top 
like  plumes,   and  they  were  all  bent  and  twisted  by 


Cocoa  Palms 


the  winds.  Here  and  there  among  the  groves  Alice 
could  see  fine  houses,  quite  close  to  the  beach.  In 
the  city,  also,  there  were  a  great  many  trees,  and  the 
breeze  from  the  land  was  as  fragrant  as  though  it  had 
blown  across  a  garden  full  of  flowers. 


22 


As  the  ship  moved  slowly  up  to  the  dock,  numbers  of 
brown,  black-eyed  Hawaiian  boys  swam  around  the 
bows  and  dived  for  the  coins  which  the  passengers 
threw  overboard.  The  water  was  so  clear  that  the 
bright  coins  could  be  seen  distinctly  to  a  great  depth. 

When  Alice  saw  the  crowds  of  people  on  the  dock 
where   she  went  ashore,  it  was  hard  to  realize  that  it 

was  winter.  She 
knew  that  in  Chi- 
cago the  ground 
must  still  be  cov- 
ered with  snow. 
Here,  in  Hono- 
lulu, everybody 
was  dressed  in 
white,  the  women 
and  children  in 
pretty  muslins,  and 
the  men  in  white 
linen  coats  and 
trousers,  such  as 
are  worn  in  all 
warm  countries. 
The  white  people 
waiting  for  their  friends  to  come  ashore  were  mainly 
Americans.  The  Hawaiian s  resembled  those  who  had 
rowed  the  health  officer's  boat ;  they  had  dark  skin, 
dark  straight  hair,  black  eyes,  and  good  features.  They 
spoke  a  strange,  musical  language  which,  of  course, 
Alice  could  not  understand,  and  they  cried  to  each 
other,  '^A-lo'/ia,  Aloha.''     This  is  the  Hawaiian  expres- 


Type  of  Hawaiian  Woman 


23 

sion  for  "  my  love  to  you,"  and  is  used  by  the  natives 
both  when  they  meet  and  when  they  part. 

The  women  wore  odd  gowns  with  yokes  and  long, 
full  skirts.  These  were  called  ko-lo'kus.  It  was  the 
dress  that  was  designed  for  them  by  the  first  white 
women  who  went  out  to  the  Islands  from  New  England, 
and  which  they  learned  to  wear  instead  of  the  long 
mantles  which  they  themselves  knew  how  to  make. 
The  holokus  were  almost  all  white,  but  a  few  were 
black,  brown,  and  red.  The  women,  like  the  men,  wore 
thick  wreaths  of  white,  yellow,  and  scarlet  flowers  round 
their  hats,  and  about  their  necks.  Alice  thought  this 
a  very  pretty  custom. 

After  they  left  the  ship  the  Earles  were  driven  at 
once  to  the  hotel.  The  streets  were  crooked  and  nar- 
row, but  far  cleaner  than  the  streets  of  many  cities  in 
America. 

Alice  had  supposed  that  Honolulu  was  so  far 
away  that  one  could  not  buy  anything  there  that  one 
might  need,  but  she  saw  that  the  shops  were  very 
good.  She  noticed,  too,  that  ladies  who  were  shop- 
ping sat  in  their  carriages,  while  the  articles  they 
wanted  were  brought  out  to  them,  which  seemed  very 
convenient. 

The  men  and  women  passing  to  and  fro,  walking 
leisurely,  with  none  of  the  hurry  and  bustle  to  which 
Alice  was  accustomed,  were  more  interesting  and  amus- 
ing than  any  people  she  had  ever  seen.  Among  them 
were  a  great  many  Chinese,  Japanese,  and  Portuguese, 
as  well  as  sailors  from  German,  EngUsh,  Japanese,  and 
American  cruisers. 


24 

Alice  thought  that  the  Hawaiian  women  who  were 
selling  flowers  were  the  oddest  of  all.  They  were 
dressed  in  calico  holokus.  The  flowers  were  in  bas- 
kets or  were  made  up  into  stiff  bouquets,  or  into  leis, 
many  of  which  were  worn  by  the  venders  themselves. 


Flower  Women 


They  had  brought  with  them  food,  and  some  of  them 
had  pet  dogs  and  little  pigs.  They  sat  in  rows  upon 
mats  stretched  along  the  sidewalk,  out  of  the  way  of  the 
passers-by. 

The  hotel  had  shady  balconies  above  and  below,  and 
the  grounds  were  filled  with  ferns  and  palms,  and  many 
strange,  beautiful    plants  and   trees  which   Alice   had 


25 

never  seen  before.  The  grass  all  over  was  very  thick 
and  green.  One  plant,  with  a  large,  thick  leaf  of 
brightest  green,  was  the  banana.  A  tree  with  fine, 
feathery  leaves  was  the  algaroba,  and  still  another, 
with  great  spreading  branches,  was  the  umbrella  tree, 
which  Alice  thought  well  named.  Over  one  algaroba 
tree  ran  a  vine  that  almost  covered    the   boughs  with 


Punchbowl 


masses  of  crimson  flowers,  and  upon  the  lawn  were  beds 
of  lilies  and  heliotrope. 

From  the  veranda,  at  the  back  of  the  hotel,  could 
be  seen  a  low  mountain  with  a  jagged  circular  top  that 
looked  as  if  the  peak  had  been  torn  off.  This  was 
Punch'bowl.  It  had  once  been  a  volcano,  but  the  fire 
had  died  out  ages  before,  and  it  was  covered,  within 
and  without,  with  thick  grass  and  shrubs. 

There  were  other  tall  peaks  which  Alice  learned  to 


26 


miih 


distinguish  as  Round  Top  and  Tan'ta-lus.  These  were 
also  covered  with  grass  to  the  very  top,  and  mist  and 
clouds  floated  around  them  like  a  thin  white  veil. 
There  were  a  great  many  kinds  of  people  in  the  hotel, 
as  well  as  in  the  streets,  —  Chinese,  Japanese,  Hawai- 
ians,  Americans,  and  a  few  Europeans  who  were  trav- 
eling through  the 
Islands. 

For  luncheon  Alice 
had  some  ripe,  sweet 
strawberries,  which 
grow  in  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  all  the  year 
round.  She  also  had 
cocoanuts  which  were 
not  like  any  that  she 
had  ever  eaten  be- 
fore ;  they  were  not 
quite  ripe,  and  the 
meat  was  soft,  like 
jelly,  and  had  to  be 
eaten  with  a  spoon. 
Each  nut  contained  a  quart  of  clear  fluid  that  looked 
Uke  water,  but  had  a  delicious  sour  flavor,  not  at  all 
like  the  white  milk  that  Alice  had  poured  from  cocoa- 
nuts  at  home. 

Another  strange  fruit  was  the  guava,  with  its  pink, 
fleshy  meat  full  of  hard  seeds.  Alice  had  eaten  guava 
jelly,  and  she  thought  it  much  better  than  the  ripe  fruit 
from  which  it  was  made. 

The  coffee  —  Ko'na  coffee  —  also  grew  in  the  Islands. 


Taro  Plant 


27 


It  was  rich  and  strong,  and  could  not  be  bought  any- 
where else,  as  the  people  raised  only  enough  for  their 
own  use. 

Hundreds  of  young  Kona  trees  have,  however,  been 
set  out  on  the  new  plantations,  and  some  day  Kona 
coffee  will  be  sent  to  the  United  States. 

In-  the  morning  Alice  breakfasted  on  some  small, 
delicious  fish  called  mullets  that  had  been  brought  from 
large  fish  ponds  a  few 
miles  out  of  Honolulu. 
There  was  also  poH^  a 
porridge  of  which  the 
Hawaiians  are  very 
fond.  Many  of  them 
eat  scarcely  any  other 
food. 

Poi  is  made  from 
the  root  of  a  large- 
leaved  plant,  the  taU'o, 
which  is  boiled  until  it 
is  quite  soft,  and  then 
kneaded  into  a  sticky 
paste.  In  ancient 
times  the  poi  was 
pounded  in  a  large 
wooden  tray  with  a 
stone   pestle   and   was 

then  steamed  in  an  underground  oven  with  heated  stones. 
Hawaiians  who  eat  too  much  of  it  grow  very  fat. 

It  is  of  a  pinkish  gray  color  and  somewhat  sour. 
When  the  Hawaiians  eat  poi  they  pour  it  into  a  cala- 


Calabashes 


28 


bash,  a  deep  wooden  bowl,  which  in  former  days  consti- 
tuted the  chief  article  of  furniture  in  Hawaiian  homes. 
All  the  family  gather  around  it,  sitting  on  the  floor  or  on 
the  ground.  Each  person  dips  his  finger  into  the  poi, 
rolls  a  portion  of  it  into  a  little  ball  on  the  tip  of  his 


A  Hawaiian  Hotel 

finger  and  quickly  tosses  it  into  his  mouth.      To  spill 
any  of  the  porridge  is  considered  unmannerly. 

The  dining  room  was  large  and  airy,  and  through 
the  open  windows  Alice  saw  the  waving  boughs  of  the 
palms,  and  heard  the  chattering  of  birds.  It  was  like 
fairyland,  and  she  felt  that  she  could  be  happy  in 
Honolulu  all  her  life,  and  that  she  should  never  care 
to  go  back  to  a  country  with  frost  and  snow,  where  the 
flowers  do  not  bloom  the  whole  year  round. 


29 


III.    THE    DRIVE   TO   WAIKIKI 


A  LICE 


was    awakened    the 
next  morning  by  the  loud 
chattering  of  birds  in  the  mango 
trees.      She    arose   and  peeped 
out   to    see   them   swinging    on 
the  boughs  and  hopping  about 
the  lawn.     They  were  not  like 
any  birds  that  she  had  ever  seen 
before,    though    they    looked 
a    httle    like    robins.      They 
were    larger   than    robins,   but 
almost   of   the    same    color,  ex- 
cept   about     the    neck,    where 
the    feathers    were    a    greenish 
gold.      They    had    long   yellow 
legs,  and  a   yellow  rim  around 
the  eye,  and  they  moved  about 
very  quickly  among   the  trees. 
Alice's    father   said   they   were 
mynahs,  and  that  they  had  been 
brought  from  India  to  Hawaii. 

Mynahs  are  saucy,  mischievous  birds,  and  seem  to 
be  afraid  of  nothing.  They  are  very  thievish,  and  steal 
any  bit  of  lace  or  wool  or  ribbon  that  is  left  in  their  way. 


Mynahs 


30 

While  Alice  was  in  Honolulu  she  heard  a  great  many 
stories  about  the  mynahs.  One  of  her  little  playmates 
was  collecting  postage  stamps  for  her  album.  A  my- 
nah's  nest  was  shaken  out  of  a  tree  by  the  wind,  and 
when  the  little  girl  ran  to  pick  it  up  she  found  two  rare 
stamps  neatly  pieced  into  the  side  of  the  nest.  They 
made  a  bright  bit  of  color,  and  the  mynah,  no  doubt, 
had  stolen  them  from  some  veranda  or  window  sill, 
where  the  careless  owner  had  left  them. 

A  gentleman  told  AHce  another  interesting  story 
about  the  mynahs.  In  an  unused  building  on  his  land 
there  was  a  room  that  had  been  closed  for  a  long  time. 
One  day  he  unlocked  the  door  and  found  in  the  middle 
of  the  floor  a  great  heap  of  rubbish,  —  small  twigs, 
grass,  paper,  string,  and  pieces  of  cloth.  Looking 
about,  he  saw  a  small  hole  in  the  ceiling,  through  which, 
he  at  once  concluded,  the  mynahs  had  carried  the  rub- 
bish into  the  room,  thinking,  no  doubt,  that  it  would 
never  be  discovered. 

After  breakfast  the  Earles  went  for  a  drive  to  Wai- 
ki'ki.  This  is  a  suburb,  lying  along  the  beach,  which 
they  had  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  ship.  The  road  is 
solid  and  smooth,  running  for  several  miles  quite  close 
to  the  sea.  A  wall  of  stone  has  been  built  to  prevent 
the  waves  from  washing  across  the  road.  On  one  side 
are  high  mountains,  with  the  cool  green  valleys  at  their 
base.  On  the  other  side  lies  the  sea,  deep  and  blue  and 
very  still  along  the  beach.  Farther  out  there  are  rough 
waves  that  come  swiftly  rolling  in,  till,  striking  against  a 
coral  reef,  they  toss  their  white  spray  high  up  into  the  air. 

These  reefs,  or  sunken  ledges  of  coral,  are  composed 


31 

of  the  skeletons  of  thousands  of  little  animals  called 
coral  polyps.  The  coral  polyps  live  only  under  the 
water,  and  die  when  they  come  to  the  surface.  The 
reefs  they  build  up  are  often  several  miles  broad  and 
sometimes  extend  for  hundreds  of  miles  along  the  coast. 
The  water  between  the  reef  and  the  shore  is  called  a 
lagoon,  and  here,  even  in  storms,  it  is  safe  to  row  or 
swim.  Outside  the  reef  the  sea  swarms  with  sharks, 
big  savage  fish,  which,  whenever  they  can  catch  them, 
eat  the  swimmers  who  venture  out  beyond  the  reef. 
This  does  not  happen  very  often,  as  the  Hawaiians  are 
the  most  wonderful  swimmers  in  the  world,  and  are 
not  much  afraid  of  the  sharks,  which  they  attack  with 
great  courage. 

Almost  all  the  Hawaiians  that  Alice  met,  walking  or 
riding,  —  even  the  men  who  were  cleaning  the  streets,  — 
wore  wreaths  of  flowers.  Their  horses  were  poor  and 
wretched,  for  although  there  are  a  great  many  pastures, 
the  grass  is  not  fattening. 

Alice  had  never  before  seen  women  ride  like  the 
Hawaiian  women.  They  wear  holokus,  but  sit  astride 
their  horses  like  men. 

In  the  old  days  their  riding  dresses  were  of  very  gay 
colors,  —  blue,  pink,  yellow,  green,  and  crimson ;  they 
were  long  and  flowing,  and,  as  the  women  galloped 
through  the  streets,  these  gowns  streamed  out  on  either 
side  like  wings,  making,  with  their  wreaths  of  flowers, 
a  very  pretty  picture. 

All  the  people  whom  Alice  passed  were  good-natured 
and  polite ;  they  bowed  and  smiled,  waved  their  hands, 
and  said,  "  Aloha." 


32 

As  they  passed  along,  Alice  would  now  and  then  see 
horses  standing  in  the  ponds  with  heads  bent  until  the 
water  almost  reached  their  eyes.  She  wondered  at  this 
till  she  was  told  that  the  horses  were  eating  a  weed 
that  grows  at  the  bottom  of  the  ponds.  She  often 
stopped  and  laughed  to  see  the  saucy  mynahs  perched 


Women  Riding 


on  the  backs  of  pigs  and  cows  that  went  about  their 
way  quite  unconcerned. 

On  the  edge  of  the  city  there  were  numbers  of  Chi- 
nese shops,  with  little  children  standing  in  the  doorway. 
Alice  saw  many  other  Chinese  children  on  their  way 
to  school.  They  looked  clean  and  happy.  The  little 
boys  and  girls  were  dressed  very  much  alike.     They 


33 

wore  wide  trousers,  with  long,  loose  jackets  of  dark  blue. 
Some  of  them  were  barefooted  and  wore  around  one 
ankle  a  band  of  brass,  or  jade,  a  green  stone  much 
admired  by  the  Chinese.  Some  wore  little  close-fitting 
caps^  while  others  were  bareheaded,    with  their  black 


Cocoanut  Tree 


hair  combed  very  smoothly  and  braided  in  a  long  braid 
or  cue,  which  hung  down  the  back  or  was  thrown 
daintily  across  one  arm.  Sometimes  the  cue  was  length- 
ened with  pink  cord  braided  in  with  the  hair. 

Alice  passed  several  cocoanut  groves.     For  the  first 
time,    she    saw   the   cocoanuts    growing.      They   grow 

KROUT'S    HAWAII  —  3 


34 

together,  many  in  a  bunch,  among  the  boughs  in  the  top 
of  the  tree.  The  trunks,  which  lean  in  many  directions, 
are  easy  to  climb.  This,  the  rats  soon  discover,  and 
sometimes  they  make  their  nests  among  the  cocoanuts, 
that  they  may  have  their  food  close  at  hand.  It  is  easy 
for  them  to  gnaw  through  the  yellowish  husk  and  the 
shell,  and  eat  the  soft  meat,  and  drink  the  milk,  of 
which  the  young  rats,  also,  are  very  fond. 

Passing  the  gardens  of  the  Chinese,  Alice  found  them 
neat  and  well  tilled.  They  were  laid  out  in  beds,  around 
each  of  which  was  a  narrow  canal.  In  the  beds  vegeta- 
bles and  bananas  were  growing.  Under  the  shade  of 
the  bananas  ducks  hatched  their  broods,  which  swam 
up  and  down  the  little  canals. 

The  Chinese  and  Japanese  eat  a  great  many  ducks. 
The  men  who  work  on  the  plantations  would  be  disap- 
pointed if  they  did  not  get  a  dried  duck  for  their  Sun- 
day dinner.  They  hatch  a  great  many  of  the  eggs 
by  burying  them  in  oat  chaff.  The  young  ducks  are 
kept  to  themselves  in  little  yards  inclosed  in  wire  net. 
When  the  "  duckery  "  lies  upon  the  bank  of  a  stream 
the  young  ducks  are  kept  apart  in  the  same  way  on 
the  water,  for  they  could  not  always  defend  themselves 
against  the  stronger  ducks. 

Before  the  Chinese  came  to  Honolulu  it  was  very 
hard  to  get  fresh  vegetables.  The  Hawaiians  are  by 
nature  lazy  and  not  used  to  hard  work,  and  the  white 
men  could  not  endure  the  heat  of  the  sun.  When 
the  Chinese  came  they  bought  the  wet,  swampy  land 
near  the  city,  which  was  thought  worthless.  They 
drained    and   plowed   it,   and   soon   had   fine   gardens 


35 

where  before  nothing  had  grown  but  grass  and  weeds. 
They  raised  melons  and  corn,  tomatoes,  peas,  and 
cucumbers,  and  almost  everything  that  we  can  buy 
in  our  own  markets. 

After  Mr.  Earle  had  driven  some  distance,  he  left 
the  road,  and  turned  in  at  the  entrance  of  Ka-pi-o-la'ni 


Kapiolani  Park 


Park.  This  park  was  named  for  the  wife  of  King 
Ka-la-kau'a.  It  was  filled  with  beautiful  ferns  and 
palms  and  flowering  plants,  and  there  were  canals 
everywhere,  winding  in  and  out  among  little  grassy 
islands. 

The  houses  were  set  back  from  the  road  in  the  midst 
of  lawns  and  widespreading  trees,   and  many  of  them 


36 


had  no  chimneys.  This  was  because  it  was  seldom 
cool  enough  to  need  a  fire.  Fires  were  kindled  only  in 
the  kitchens  or  ''cook-houses,"  which  stood  apart,  often 
some  distance  from  the  house  in  which  the  family  lived, 
just  as  Alice  had  seen  them  in  the  Southern  states, 
where  she  often  visited  her  relatives.  The  grounds 
about  the  houses  were   surrounded   by  stone  walls  or 


Diamond  Head 


high  wooden  palings,  but  the  gates  always  stood  open, 
so  that  people  could  walk  in  and  out  as  they  liked. 
There  were  very  few  weeds  in  the  fields  or  in  the  gar- 
dens, and  even  along  the  roadside  the  grass  was  thick 
and  fine. 

They  now  drove  through  a  grove  of  algaroba  trees, 
quite  close  to  the  foot  of  Diamond  Head,  the  tall 
cliff  rising  above  Waikiki.  Alice's  father  said  that 
the  algaroba,  like  most  of  the  trees  they  had  seen,  did 
not  grow  upon  the  Islands  when  white  men  first  came 


37 

there  to  live,  but  had  been  brought  from  other  coun- 
tries by  French  missionaries.  The  fine,  feathery  leaves 
make  a  thick  shade,  the  wood  is  used  for  fuel,  and 
the  long  seed  pods  make  good  fodder  for  the  cattle. 

Alice   had   seen  two   churches   in   her  drive,   one   of 
coral,  cut  in  blocks,  and  the  other  of  wood.     The  coral 


A  Hawaiian  Church 

church  was  built  by  the  missionaries  from  blocks  of 
coral  brought  by  their  Hawaiian  friends  as  gifts.  This 
was  the  church  attended  by  the  king  and  queen,  who 
sat  in  the  rear,  in  seats  much  higher  than  the  other 
pews,  to  show  that  they  were  of  higher  rank. 

The  little  wooden  church  was  old  and  weatherbeaten. 


38 

In  the  churchyard  surrounding  it  were  many  graves, 
among  which  sat  several  Hawaiian  women.  After  the 
death  of  friends  and  relatives,  it  was  their  custom  to 
spend  many  days  at  a  time  in  the  churchyard,  and 
there  they  sewed  and  wove  fans  and  mats,  and  even 
cooked  and  ate  their  food.  Before  they  were  taught 
better  by  the  missionaries,  they  used  to  bury  their 
dead  near  the  door  or  under  the  floor  of  their  huts. 
Mothers  would  often  put  their  children  to  death  as 
soon  as  they  were  born,  and  adopt  the  children  of 
their  friends  and  neighbors.  Alice  was  glad  to  know 
that  such  cruel  things  were  now  no  longer  done. 


3>»iO«~ 


IV.   GRASS   HOUSES 

MR.  and  Mrs.  Earle  found  the  people  of  Honolulu 
very  kind  and  hospitable.  To  some  of  them  they 
had  brought  letters  of  introduction  from  friends  at 
home,  and  these  people  came  at  once  to  call  on  them, 
or  to  invite  them  to  dine  and  to  drive. 

The  week  after  they  arrived  they  were  all  invited  to 
Wai-me'a,  a  pretty  place  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  the 
city,  on  Pearl  Harbor.  This  was  a  little  inlet  of  the 
sea  which  King  Kalakaua  had  given  the  United  States 
permission  to  use  for  a  coaling  station  —  a  place  where 
large  supplies  of  coal  are  brought  and  stored  for  the 
use  of  ships  that  pass  there  on  their  way  back  and 
forth  across  the  sea.  Such  stations  are  necessary  be- 
cause the  furnaces  by  which  the  boilers  are  heated 


39 

consume  several  thousand  bushels  of  coal  every  day, 
and  most  ships  could  not  carry  enough  to  last  during  a 
voyage  of  three  or  four  weeks. 

It  was  a  beautiful  morning,  and  they  drove  to  the 
little  station  of  the  only  railway  on  the  island  of  Oahu, 
which  runs  from  Honolulu  to  the  principal  towns  of 


A  Hawaiian  Avenue 


Oahu,  and  to  the  large  sugar  plantations  on  the  island. 
This  is  a  great  convenience  to  people  living  on  the  plan- 
tations. One  car  was  filled  with  Hawaiian  men  and 
women. 

From  the  station  they  walked  to  the  house  of  their 
friend,  Mr.  Dan  vers,  whom  they  were  to  visit.  Alice 
had    never    before    seen    a   house   like   this.     It  was 


40 

called  a  bungalow.  The  roof  sloped  from  the  center, 
broadening  toward  the  eaves.  It  was  one  story  high, 
and  there  were  wide  verandas  all  round  it,  furnished 
with  hammocks  and  with  wicker  tables  and  chairs. 
While  they  rested,  three  or  four  young  Hawaiian  girls 


Oahu  Railway 


played  very  prettily  upon  a  little  instrument  something 
like  a  mandolin,  and  sung  some  wild  and  mournful 
Hawaiian  songs.  After  luncheon  they  walked  about 
the  grounds  under  the  shade  of  the  algaroba  trees. 

Mr.  Danvers  wished  them  to  see  his  grass  houses 
which  had  been   made  by  a   Hawaiian,  nearly  eighty 


41 

years  of  age.  These  huts  were  Hke  those  in  which  the 
people  had  Hved  before  they  learned  to  build  houses  of 
wood  and  brick,  and  none  of  the  younger  Hawaiians 
knew  how  tp  make  them.  Either  they  had  never  been 
taught,  or  they  had  forgotten.  The  grass  houses  were 
oblong,  with  steep,  sloping  roofs,  the  grass  being  fas- 


Native  Grass  House 


tened  to  a  framework  of  light  poles.  The  frame  was  tied 
together  with  strings  made  of  the  fiber  of  plants,  for  the 
Hawaiians  formerly  had  no  nails.  The  roof  was  thatched 
with  securely  fastened  layers  of  grass  which  the  rain 
could  not  penetrate.  The  covering  of  the  ends  and 
sides  was  interwoven  and  braided  like  a  mat ;  but  it  was 
many  inches  in  thickness.     This  made  the  grass  house 


42 

cool  when  the  weather  was  warm,  and  warm  when  the 
days  were  rainy  and  chilly.  There  were  no  windows, 
and  but  one  door,  so  low  that  Mr.  Earle  could  not  enter 
the  house  without  stooping. 

Mr.  Danvers  had  furnished  one  of  the  grass  houses 
in  imitation  of  those  formerly  occupied  by  Hawaiian 
families  of  high  rank.  The  hut  consisted  of  a  single 
room,  the  floor  of  which  was  of  earth  beaten  smooth 
and  hard,  and  covered  with  fine  white  mats  of  woven 
grass.  At  one  end  a  low  platform,  several  yards  in 
width,  extended  across  the  hut,  and  here  the  family  and 
their  visitors  slept. 

The  bed  was  of  rushes  spread  with  mats,  and  the 
round  hard  bolster  was  also  covered  with  matting,  which 
seemed  to  Alice  rather  uncomfortable.  The  bedclothes 
were  not  of  cotton  or  woolen  material,  but  of  a  kind  of 
paper,  called  to! pa,  very  much  like  the  paper  used  in 
paper  napkins.  Some  of  this  tapa  was  soft  and  thin 
and  silky,  while  the  rest  was  thicker  and  coarser. 

Mr.  Danvers  explained  that  the  tapa  is  made  from 
the  inner  bark  of  the  paper  mulberry  tree,  which  is 
beaten  in  water  with  heavy  mallets,  until  it  is  crushed 
into  a  soft  mass.  It  is  then  fashioned  into  strips  of 
the  thickness  required,  and  the  strips  are  overlapped  at 
the  edges  and  beaten  together  so  neatly  and  smoothly 
that  the  seam  can  hardly  be  noticed.  The  clothing  of 
the  Hawaiians  in  the  old  times  was  also  made  of  tapa. 
The  tapa,  at  first  a  grayish  white,  is  colored  with  dyes 
made  of  plants. and  minerals,  purple,  pink,  green,  and 
brown,  and  decorated  in  pretty  patterns  of  straight  or 
waving  lines. 


43 

The  furniture  of  the  house  consisted  of  a  few  stools 
and  calabashes,  the  wooden  bowls  for  holding  food  and 
water.  The  calabashes  were  made  of  a  fine,  hard- 
grained  wood  either  of  ko^ a  or  of  ko^u^  which  was  bril- 
liantly polished.  These  calabashes  had  been  shaped 
with  stone  tools,  for  the  Hawaiians  had  no  tools  of  iron 
or  steel,  until  after  the  white  men  came  to  the  Islands. 

The  Hawaiian  women  made  the  tapa,  and  wove  the 
mats  for  the  floors  and  beds,  besides  cooking  the  food. 

The  candle  was  certainly  the  oddest  that  AHce  had 
ever  seen ;  the  kernels  of  a  small  nut  had  been  strung 
on  a  splinter  of  bamboo,  and  the  nut  at  the  end  of  the 
string  was  lighted  and  burned  several  minutes ;  then 
the  second  caught  fire  and  so  on  until  all  were  burned. 
The  nuts  were  gathered  from  the  ku-hiH^  or  candle  nut 
tree  which  grows  everywhere  on  the  mountain  sides, 
and  which  can  easily  be  recognized  by  its  pale  gray- 
green  leaves  among  the  darker  foliage. 

Some  of  the  richer  Hawaiians  used  lamps  of  stone,  in 
which  fish  oil  was  burned.  The  Hawaiians  used  to  fear 
darkness,  being  much  afraid  of  ghosts  and  evil  spirits. 
It  was  long  before  the  missionaries  could  convince  them 
that  such  spirits  do  not  exist,  and  that  the  nighttime  is 
just  as  safe  as  the  day. 


44 


V.    HAWAIIAN    CUSTOMS 

WHEN  the  party  returned  to  the  comfortable  ve- 
randa of  the  bungalow,  Mr.  Danvers,  who  had 
been  born  and  bred  among  the  natives,  told  them  a 
great  many  interesting  tales  about  the  old  Hawaiians. 


Fishing  with  a  Spear 


Alice  learned  that  besides  poi  and  fruit  they  also  ate 
a  great  deal  of  fish,  and  that  the  fishermen  were  very 
clever  in  the  use  of  spears  and  nets,  with  which  the  fish 
were  caught.  When  the  Islands  became  so  crowded 
with  people  that  food  grew  scarce,  the  chiefs  gave  to 


45 

each  family  a  small  plat  of  ground  in  which  they 
planted  the  taro  for  their  poi.  These  little  gardens 
were  surrounded  by  low  stone  walls. 

When  the  supply  of  fish  began  to  fail,  the  great  fish 
ponds  were  dug,  filled  with  water,  and  stocked  with 
mullet.     These  ponds  lay  in  a  narrow  valley  between 


Fishing  with  a  Net 

two  low  mountain  peaks,  which  could  be  seen  from  Mr. 
Danvers's  veranda. 

In  fishing  at  sea,  the  nets  were  let  down  to  a  very 
great  depth,  and  thousands  of  fish  were  taken  at  once, 
so  that  after  a  while  they  became  very  scarce. 

All  the  best  food  was  kept  for  the  chiefs ;  to  men  of 
lower  rank  it  was  forbidden  by  law.  Any  breaking  of 
this  law  was  punished  by  death. 


46 


A  very  troublesome  custom  invented  by  the  priests 

and  chiefs  was  the  tabu.     This  was  a  rule  forbidding 

the  people  to  do  certain  things,  to  eat  certain  kinds  of 

food,  to  wash  at  certain  seasons,  forbidding  them  at 

times  even  to  attend  the  sick  or 

bury  the  dead.     All  food  set  apart 

for  the  priests  and  chiefs  was  said 

to   be    tabu.      A   little    girl   once 

had  her  eyes  put  out  for  eating 

a  banana,  a  fruit  reserved  for  men 

of   high   rank.     She   would   have 

been  put   to    death,  had    she  not 

been  the  daughter  of  a  chief. 

Whenever  the  priests  performed 
solemn  religious  ceremonies,  a  gen- 
eral tabu  was  declared.  Then  no 
one  could  walk  about,  or  speak,  or 
make  a  sound ;  the  fowls  and  dogs 
and  pigs  were  shut  up  in  the  dark, 
that  they  might  think  it  was  night, 
and  keep  quiet.  This  silence  lasted 
from  sunrise  until  sunset,  and  if 
even  a  dog  barked,  or  a  hen  cackled, 
the  tabu  was  violated,  and  the  whole 
ceremony  had  to  be  performed  over. 
The  people  found  the  tabu  so  un- 
comfortable that  they  kept  very  still,  in  order  to  get 
through  with  it  as  soon  as  possible. 

The  idols,  which  the  priests  carried  in  battle,  and  in 
times  of  peace  kept  in  little  temples  or  sacred  houses, 
were  very  hideous. 


Old  Idol 


47 

The  people  worshiped  four  chief  gods.  One  they 
thought  dwelt  in  the  savage  shark,  another  in  the  vol- 
cano, a  third  in  the  earth,  and  a  fourth  in  the  air. 

Men  and  women  never  ate  at  the  same  table.  Parents 
loved  their  sons  far  better  than  their  daughters.  When 
a  boy  was  five  years  old,  if  he  was  of  high  rank,  he 
was  allowed  to  eat  pork  and  bananas,  and  thereafter  he 
never  again  sat  at  table  with  his  mother  or  sisters. 

The  Hawaiians  made  little  sledges  with  curved, 
polished  runners  and  coasted  down  the  grassy  hill- 
sides. They  also  played  at  bowls  and  threw  spears 
at  a  target ;  and  the  chiefs  were  fond  of  shooting  mice 
with  bows  and  arrows,  —  a  sport  in  which  no  one  else 
could  engage.  They  ran  races  and  wrestled ;  and  in 
their  boxing  matches  struck  such  heavy  blows  that 
men  were  frequently  killed. 

The  most  popular  of  all  their  pastimes  was  swim- 
ming. They  used  a  very  long,  narrow  board,  with 
which  men,  women,  and  even  children  swam  out  to 
sea  until  they  met  a  huge  wave,  when  they  threw 
themselves  upon  the  swimming  board  and  were  borne 
swiftly  to  the  shore.  They  were  so  skillful  in  this 
dangerous  amusement  that  they  were  rarely  hurt  or 
•drowned.  They  were  also  very  fearless  in  leaping  over 
high  waterfalls,  into  the  deep  pools  below.  Indeed, 
they  spent  so  much  time  in  the  streams  and  the  sea, 
that  they  were  almost  as  much  at  home  in  the  water 
as  on  the  land. 

Few  of  the  Hawaiians  of  to-day  would  venture  to 
leap  over  even  a  small  waterfall,  and  they  rarely  use 
their  swimming  boards. 


48 


Whenever  the  Hawaiians  were  sick,  they  believed 
either  that  they  had  been  bewitched,  or  else,  by  fail- 
ure to  visit  the  sacred  houses  and  offer  gifts  to  the 
priests,  had  offended  some  evil  spirit. 

Native  doctors,  or  sorcerers,  who  had  all  sorts  of 
dreadful  remedies,  were  called  in  to  give  medicine  to 
the  sick,  or  work  charms  or  spells  that 

frighten   away   the   evil 

Sometimes  their 

were  placed  in 

baths,     which 

made     by 


pouring  water  over  heated  stones.  The  old  Hawaiians 
believed  that  their  enemies  could  cause  sickness  or 
death,  if  they  could  obtain  a  bit  of  hair  or  finger  nail  of 
the  man  or  woman  whom  they  wished  to  harm,  and  they 
were  careful  to  destroy  such  things.  They  were  almost 
as  much  afraid  of  the  doctors  as  of  the  priests  and 
idols,  and  took  pains  not  to  offend  them,  and  to  keep 
them  in  good  humor  by  giving  them  presents.     To  this 


49 

day  there  are  a  good  many  Hawaiians  who  will  not  call 
in  a  regular  physician  when  they  are  ill,  but  secretly 
consult  the  native  doctors,  many  of  whom  still  thrive 
in  the  Islands. 


j><«< 


VL     THE   PALI 

THE  Hawaiian  Islands  are  all  very  much  alike. 
Across  each  there  extends  a  high  ridge,  upon  one 
side  of  which  the  island  is  bare  and  rocky,  and  on  the 
other  clothed  with  forests  and  rich  valleys,  through 
which  countless  brooks  flow  to  the  sea.  The  northeast 
trade  winds  blowing  across  the  ocean  bring  moisture 
to  the  land  in  clouds.  It  turns  into  rain  when  it 
reaches  the  cool  land,  just  as  the  moisture  collects  in 
drops  upon  the  outside  of  a  pitcher  of  ice  water  on  a 
warm  summer  day.  The  clouds  cannot  cross  the  moun- 
tains, therefore,  but  condense  into  rain  which  falls  upon 
one  side  of  the  ridge  only,  leaving  the  other  side  dry 
and  parched. 

The  barren  tracts  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands  are  not 
sandy,  but  are  covered  with  lava.  Lava  is  of  a  dull, 
gray  color,  and  may  be  rough  and  jagged  or  smooth 
and  glassy.  There  is  now  very  little  barren  land  on 
the  island  of  Oahu,  where  Honolulu  is  located.  But, 
long  ago,  there  were  few  plants  or  trees,  except  the 
cocoanut  near  the  sea,  and  the  candle  nut,  the  koa,  and 
the  kou,  which  grew  on  the  high  lands.  Nearly  all  the 
useful  plants,  except  the  sugar  cane,  were  brought  to 

KROUT'S   HAWAII  —  4 


50 

the  Islands  by  white  men.  There  are  people  still  living 
who  can  remember  a  time  when  the  beautiful  parks  and 
gardens  around  Honolulu  were  but  dry,  dusty  plains. 

Oahu  has  more  fertile  land  than  the  other  islands, 
because  there  is  an  opening  in  the  mountain  ridge, 
through  which  the  moisture  from  the  sea  may  spread 
over  the  whole  island.  This  cleft  is  called  the  Pa'li, 
a  Hawaiian  word  which  means  '*  a  rocky  precipice." 
The  Pali  is,  in  reality,  a  "pass,"  or  opening,  in  the 
mountain,  through  which  a  road  has  been  made,  lead- 
ing down  to  the  valleys  on  the  other  side. 

There  are  parts  of  Oahu  which  have  more  rain  than 
others;  for  only  a  little  of  the  moisture  of  the  sea  is 
blown  through  the  Pali  by  the  trade  winds,  so  that 
some  of  the  plantations  are  watered  by  wells  sunk  deep 
in  the  rock.  This  is  called  irrigation,  and  the  sugar 
cane  grows  almost  as  well  on  this  land  as  where  a 
great  deal  of  rain  falls.  The  road  to  the  Pali  is  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world.  No  one  who  visits 
Honolulu  ought  to  go  away  without  being  taken  for  a 
drive  to  the  top  of  the  precipice.  The  road  starts  from 
Nu-u-a'nu  Avenue,  a  broad,  smooth  street,  with  tropical 
trees,  shady  gardens,  and  fine  residences  on  either  side. 
It  is  always  kept  very  clean,  and  in  good  repair,  and  is 
never  strewn  with  straw  or  bits  of  paper. 

The  day  that  Mr.  Earle  selected  for  the  excursion 
which~  he  planned  to  the  Pali  was  clear  and  bright. 
The  mynahs  were  chattering  in  the  hibiscus  hedges. 
Alice  had  seen  the  hibiscus  at  home,  in  greenhouses; 
it  is  a  shrub  bearing  large  scarlet  flowers  which  are 
easily  killed  by  the  frost.     Here  she  saw  long  hedges 


51 

which  were  covered  with  the  brilliant  flowers.  The 
Hawaiians  use  them  for  wreaths,  which  they  sometimes 
wear  instead  of  hats  or  bonnets.  The  doves  were 
mournfully  cooing  in  the  palm  trees,  —  perhaps  bewail- 
ing their  sad  fate,  for  the  mynahs  often  fight  them, 
break  up  their  nests,  and  kill  their  young. 

After  they  left  the  smooth,  shady  avenue,  they  came 
out  into  the  open  valley,  from  whose  borders  rose  the 
steep  mountains.  Here  were  the  burying  grounds  in 
which  stood  the  royal  tomb,  where  many  of  the  Hawai- 
ian kings  were  buried. 

The  mountain  sides  were  thickly  covered  with  the 
guava  and  the  lantana,  a  shrub  which  is  raised  in  green- 
houses in  cold  climates,  but  which  has  spread  every- 
where in  Oahu,  and  has  given  the  planters  a  great  deal 
of  trouble.  It  grows  in  dense  thickets  which  are  hard 
to  root  out. 

As  they  began  to  ascend  toward  the  Pali,  Mr.  Earle 
stopped  and  turned  the  carriage  a  little,  that  they  might 
look  back  over  the  road  by  which  they  had  come.  The 
valley  was  like  velvet,  covered  with  soft,  green  grass. 
Here  and  there  were  the  little  garden  plots  that  had 
belonged  to  the  early  Hawaiians ;  around  them  the  low 
stone  walls  were  crumbling  into  ruin. 

Beyond  the  valley,  the  roofs  and  spires  of  the  city 
could  be  seen  above  the  tops  of  the  mango  and  bread- 
fruit trees,  with  the  tall,  slender  palms,  like  plumes, 
waving  high  above  them  all. 

Beyond  this  was  the  bay,  with  all  the  ships  lying 
along  the  dock,  or  at  anchor,  farther  out ;  —  the  big 
white  war  ships,  and  the  sailing  vessels,  some  of  which 


52 


had  just  finished  their  long  voyage,  while  others  were 
getting  ready  to  sail  with  their  cargo  of  sugar,  cocoa- 
nuts,  and  pineapples. 

The  lagoon  was  very  still  and  blue,  and  along  the 
hidden  reef,  which  did  not  show  above  the  water,  a 

curling  edge  of  foam 
shone  white  as  snow. 
The  ocean,  still  farther 
off,  lay  broad  and  blue, 
and  seemed  to  melt  into 
the  sky.  The  gray, 
jagged,  mountain  peaks 
rose  above  them,  the 
clouds  moving  across 
them  very  slowly. 

A  pack  train — a  drove 
of  horses  driven  by  little 
Japanese  laborers  and 
loaded  with  supplies  of 
food  —  passed  them  on 
its  way  to  the  planta- 
tions on  the  other  side 
of  the  Pali.  The  road 
was  so  steep  that  almost 
everything  was  taken  across  the  Pali  in  this  way,  or 
sent  around  by  the  sea  in  steamers. 

When  they  reached  the  top  of  the  Pali  a  thick  mist 
suddenly  shut  them  in.  Mr.  Earle  told  Alice  that  this 
was  a  cloud,  and  that  if  she  were  to  walk  through  any  of 
the  heavy,  gray  clouds  in  the  sky,  she  would  find  her- 
self in  just  such  a  mist  as  this. 


Guava. 


53 

In  a  little  while  the  breeze  grew  stronger,  and  the  mist 
passed  away,  down  the  mountain  side.  But  the  wind 
blew  with  terrible  force  through  the  narrow  Pali.  Alice 
had  to  hold  her  hat  to  keep  it  from  blowing  away  ;  she 
could  scarcely  breathe.     They  could  not  hear  each  other 


Pali  Pass 


speak,  and  the  horses  bent  their  heads  as  they  strug- 
gled against  the  wind. 

Mr.  Earle  shouted  to  one  of  the  Japanese  drivers  of  the 
pack  train,  and  asked  whether  the  road  was  clear  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Pah.  The  man  shook  his  head  and  said 
that  it  would  not  be  safe  to  drive  over  the  road  in  such 
a  gale.     He  then  held  the  horses  while  the  party  walked 


54 


to  the  top  and  looked  down  upon  the  sugar  plantations 
that  spread  out  for  miles  below  the  Pali  and  resembled 
cornfields,  except  that  the  cane  was  a  brighter  green. 
They  could  see  the  houses  of  the  planters,  and  the  grass 
huts  of  the  Japanese  and  Hawaiians  around  the  sugar 
mills. 

A  wall  was  built  along  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  at 
the  very  top,  to  prevent  people  from  being  blown  over 
it  in  gales,  and  Alice  felt  a  little  dizzy  as  she  looked 
down  into  the  chasm.  There  were  many  days,  Mr. 
Earle  said,  when  the  trade  winds  were  blowing,  on  which 
it  was  not  safe  to  visit  the  Pali ;  and  this  Alice  could 
well  believe. 

Mr.  Earle  told  Alice  that  a  fierce  battle  had  been 
fought  in  the  Nuuanu  valley  by  Ka-me-ha-me'ha  the 
Great,  against  the  chief  who  lived  upon  the  island  of 
Oahu.  Kamehameha  won  the  battle,  and  the  people* 
who  fought  against  him  were  driven  up  the  mountain 
side,  through  the  Pali,  where  they  leaped  over  the  edge 
of  the  wall  and  were  dashed  to  pieces. 

This  battle,  which  took  place  in  1795,  was  the  last  of 
several  which  made  Kamehameha  master  of  all  save 
two  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  and  it  led  finally  to  the 
union  of  all  the  islands  under  one  government  —  the 
beginning  of  a  new  era  for  the  country. 


55 


VII.   THE  VISIT  TO  HILO 

AFTER  they  had  spent  some  time  in  Honolulu,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Earle  decided  to  go  to  Hi'lo,  on  the  is- 
land of  Hawaii.  Next  to  Honolulu,  Hilo  is  the  largest 
town  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  The  great  volcano,  Ki-lau- 
e'a,  is  only  thirty  miles  from  Hilo ;  more  than  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  distant  from  Honolulu. 

They  were  to  sail  in  the  Ki-naiL\  a  little  steamer 
named  after  one  of  the  great  Hawaiian  queens.  The 
deck  was  crowded  with  natives  who  had  been  to  see 
their  friends  in  Honolulu,  or  were  going  to  visit  on  the 
other  islands.  They  sailed  in  the  afternoon,  and  when 
they  had  lost  sight  of  Oahu  they  could  see  the  dark, 
steep  shores  of  Molokai,  where  the  poor  lepers  live. 
Molokai  was  still  a  long  distance  away,  but  much 
nearer  than  when  they  saw  it  from  the  deck  of  the 
Mariposa. 

The  channels  between  the  islands  were  very  broad, 
and  the  water  was  like  the  current  of  a  wide,  swift  river. 
The  little  steamer  rolled  and  tossed,  so  that  very  few  of 
the  passengers  could  stay  on  deck. 

In  the  morning  the  engines  stopped.  Alice  went  with 
her  father  out  of  the  cabin  to  the  forward  part  of  the 
deck,  and  saw  that  the  steamer  was  quite  close  to  the  land. 
There  were  a  few  houses,  a  large  store,  and  a  little 
railway  station.  Having  concluded  to  go  ashore,  they 
went  down  the  rope  ladder  over  the  side  of  the  vessel, 
into  a  big  boat  in  which  half  a  dozen  Hawaiians  were 
already  seated.  Mr.  Earle  said  that  the  little  village 
was  Ma-hu-ko'na,  on  the  island  of  Hawaii.     It  was  on 


56 


the   opposite   side   from   Hilo,   which  was  still  a  long 

distance  away, 

All  that  part  of  the  island  was  covered  with  gray  lava, 

but  here  and  there  a  coarse  sort  of  grass  and  a  few  lit- 
tle ferns  had  begun 
to  take  root.  Al- 
garoba  trees  were 
planted  around  the 
houses,  and  made  a 
pretty  green  spot  on 
the  gray  and  barren 
mountain  side.  The 
algaroba  is  the  only 
tree,  except  the  palm, 
that  will  grow  in  the 
lava,  which  its  fine 
roots  can  pierce  and 
break.  Mr.  Earle  said 
that  some  day,  per- 
haps, the  algaroba 
may  spring  up  every- 
where, and  there  will 
then  be  soil  upon 
which  grass  and  flow- 
ers can  also  grow. 


Algaroba  Tree 


The  little  railway  ran  around  the  coast  to  the  planta- 
tions which  were  on  the  other  side  of  the  ridge.  The  cars 
were  loaded  with  bags  of  sugar,  which  were  to  be  piled 
into  boats  and  drawn  out  to  the  ship  by  cables.  There 
were  so  many  bags  that  it  took  nearly  all  the  morning 
to  take  them  from  the  warehouse  to  the  steamer. 


57 

The  little  cars  were  very  plain  and  uncomforta- 
ble, Alice  thought,  and  not  at  all  like  those  in  which 
she  traveled  in  the  United  States.  The  seats  were 
of  wood,  and  there  was  no  carpet  in  the  aisles. 
But  travelers  could  do  very  well  without  that  in 
a  warm  country  like  Hawaii.  The  people  who  once 
had  to  *  go  back  and  forth  on  horseback,  over  the 
lava,  were  glad  enough  to  have  any  sort  of  a  rail- 
way by  which  they  could  come  and  go  quickly,  and 
without  fatigue.  Some  of  the  Hawaiians  traveled  by 
the  little  train,  and  others  rode  up  the  mountain  side 
on  horseback. 

Alice  could  hardly  see  the  road  across  the  lava.  The 
women  on  horseback  wore  holokus  and  broad-brimmed 
straw  hats,  and  both  men  and  women  had  wreaths  on 
their  hats  and  around  their  necks. 

Mr.  Earle  pointed  out  to  Alice  the  tall  telephone 
poles  by  the  roadside.  He  said  they  knew  by  this 
time  in  Hilo  that  the  Kinau  had  reached  Mahukona, 
as  well  as  how  many  passengers  there  were  on  board. 
All  the  towns  and  plantations  were  connected  by  tele- 
phone lines.  People  used  the  telephone  a  great  deal, 
and  talked  with  one  another  many  miles  apart.  Alice 
was  surprised  at  this,  for  she  had  supposed  the  telephone 
was  unknown  in  a  country  so  far  away  as  the  Hawaiian 
Islands. 

When  the  whistle  blew,  to  tell  them  to  come 
on  board,  they  went  down  to  the  beach  and  were 
taken  back  to  the  Kinaii.,  in  one  of  the  big  boats. 
The  water  again  became  very  rough,  and  when  they 
reached  Hilo,  the  next  morning,  it  was  raining  hard. 


58 


Alice  had  never  seen  it  rain  so  hard  anywhere.  The 
water  fell  almost  in  sheets.  There  was  no  dock  where 
the  passengers  could  be  landed,  so  the  Kinau  an- 
chored in  the  deep  water,  out  in  the  bay,  or  roadstead. 
Alice  was  told  that  it  rained  more  in  Hilo  than  any- 
where else  on  the  globe,  except  one  little  valley  among 
the  mountains  in  India. 


A  Traveler's  Palm  and  Rose  Garden 


Everything  was  dripping  wet,  the  trees,  the  gardens, 
and  the  great,  broad  fields  of  sugar  cane.  Alice  had 
never  seen  anything  so  beautifully  green  as  these  cane 
fields,  which  stretched  for  miles  beyond  Hilo,  to  the 
edge  of  the  forest. 

At  the  landing  AHce  had  to  be  lifted  up  out  of  the 
boat  into  the  shed  which  served  as  a  shelter,  and  pres- 
ently her  father  and  mother  joined  her.     It  was  rather 


59 

hard  for  them  to  climb  to  the  platform,  but  they  laughed 
and  said  that  they  were  glad  they  were  safe  on  shore. 
They  were  driven  to  a  little  hotel,  an  old-fashioned 
frame  house,  with  gardens  in  the  rear  containing  many 
palms  and  rnango  trees.  Here  they  were  to  stay  while 
they  were  in  Hilo. 

In  the  afternoon  the  sun  came  out,  and  they  went  for 
a  walk.     Alice  thought  Hilo  even  lovelier  than  Hono- 


Tortoises 


lulu.  She  had  never  seen  so  many  palm  trees,  nor  so 
many  beautiful  flowers.  In  one  garden  grew  nothing 
but  roses,  white  and  red  and  pink.  A  narrow  stream 
ran  round  the  garden,  and  in  the  center,  among  the 
roses,  stood  a  traveler's  palm.  The  leaf  stalks  of  this 
tree  collect  and  hold  the  water  from  the  rains,  and 
travelers,  passing  through  the  forests,  pierce  the  stalks 
and  obtain  water  enough  to  quench  their  thirst.  For 
this  reason  it  is  called  the  traveler's  palm.     The  little 


66 

streams  seemed  to  flow  everywhere ;  across  the  lawns, 
and  through  the  steep,  rocky  streets. 

The  party  returned  through  a  grassy  paddock  behind 
the  house.  In  the  paddock  was  the  largest  tortoise  Alice 
had  ever  seen.  Its  shell  was  four  or  five  feet  in  length 
and  almost  as  broad.  She  was  not  in  the  least  afraid 
of  it,  and  her  father  lifted  her  on  its  back.  It  did  not 
appear  to  feel  her  weight,  and  walked  slowly  along. 
Alice  had  never  before  taken  so  strange  a  ride  as  that. 
The  tortoise  had  lived  in  the  paddock  for  several  years, 
and  seemed  quite  contented.  Mr.  Earle  said  that  it 
had  been  brought  from  the  Ga-lap^a-gos  Islands,  where 
the  tortoise  grows  to  a  very  great  size. 

Alice  went  to  bed  very  early,  for  the  next  day  they 
were  all  to  take  the  long  drive  to  the  volcano. 


^>^c 


VIII.   THE   ROAD  TO    THE   VOLCANO 

ALICE  could  hardly  believe  that  she  had  been  asleep 
when  her  mother  called  her  the  next  morning,  and 
told  her  that  the  stage  would  be  at  the  door  in  half  an 
hour.  She  was  very  tired  after  the  rough  voyage  from 
Honolulu  and  would  have  liked  to  rest.  But  she  just 
had  time  to  dress  and  eat  her  breakfast  when  the  stage 
was  ready  to  start  off. 

It  was  a  shabby  old  stage,  with  two  horses  in  rusty 
harness.  But  the  Scotch  driver  was  a  good-natured 
man,  who  invited  Alice  to  sit  with  him  in  the  front  seat. 


6i 

Everybody  along  the  road  knew  this  driver  and  liked 
him,  because  he  was  kind  and  obliging  and  ready  to  do 
errands  for  anybody.   ^ 

Besides  the  mail  sacks,  which  he  drew  forward  from 
under  the  seat,  so  that  Alice  might  rest  her  feet  upon 
them,  he  carried  a  variety  of  things  which  he  had  bought 
in  Hilo  for  the  people  who  lived  on  the  plantations  he  was 
going  to  pass.  There  were  books  and  parcels,  and  a 
neatly  covered  basket  of  meat. 

As  they  drove  out  of  Hilo  they  saw  a  great  many 
Chinese  shops  like  those  in  Honolulu.  There  were,  the 
same  odd  little  Chinese  children  in  their  blue  coats 
and  green  trousers.  These  were  also  barefooted,  and 
had  pink  cords  braided  in  with  their  cues.  They  were 
very  silent,  and  watched  the  stage  gravely.  Their  skin 
was  dark,  and  their  black  eyes  were  small  and 
slanting. 

The  Japanese  were  at  work  in  the  sugar  plantations. 
They  moved  across  the  fields  in  long  lines.  Each 
man  had  a  sharp,  short  knife.  He  cut  the  cane  with 
one  stroke,  which  felled  the  stalk,  and  passed  on 
from  row  to  row.  When  the  cane  was  cut  it  was 
stripped  of  the  long  leaves  and  collected  in  bundles. 
Then  it  was  ready  to  send  to  the  mill  to  be  ground. 
The  sun  was  hot,  and  the  men  were  covered  with  dust. 
But  they  worked  very  fast  and  appeared  contented  and 
cheerful. 

A  little  farther  on,  an  animal,  larger  than  a  cat,  ran 
across  the  road  and  hid  in  a  stone  wall.  Its  fur  was 
thick,  and  it  had  a  big  bushy  tail.  The  driver  told  Alice 
that  it   was   a  mongoose.      Mongooses   were  brought 


62 

from  the  West  Indies  to  Hawaii  to  kill  the  rats  that  did 
much  damage  in  the  cane  fields.  Had  the  rats  eaten  just 
a  little  of  the  cane,  the  planters  would  not  have  cared ; 
but  they  were  very  greedy,  and  they  gnawed  and  wasted 
a  great  many  stalks  before  they  found  one  exactly  to 
their  taste.  The  rats  are  afraid  of  the  mongoose  and 
run  off   and  hide  when  they  see  or  scent  one.     They 


Japanese  in  the  Cane  Fields 

know  that  in  a  fight  they  have  very  little  chance  to  get 
away.  But  the  mongoose  itself  has  done  much  mischief ; 
and  the  planters  sometimes  wish  that  it  had  never  been 
brought  to  the  Islands.  Rats  will  fight  fiercely,  espe- 
cially when  they  find  that  they  cannot  escape,  and  the 
mongoose  prefers  to  attack  something  that  cannot  so 
well  defend  itself.  It  is  fond  of  eggs,  and  robs  the 
nests,  and  comes  into  the  poultry  yard  after  young 
ducks  and  chickens,  which  it  carries  off.  In  this  habit 
it  is  very  much  like  the  weasel.     The  mongoose  also 


63 

kills  and  eats  young  pheasants,  of  which  there  are  a 
great  many  in  the  Islands. 

At  one  place,  a  party  of  men  were  building  a  road. 
They  wore  queer  clothes  of  cotton  cloth.  One  sleeve 
of  the  jacket  and  one  trouser's  leg  was  blue,  and  the 
other  brown.  The  men  were  prisoners,  who  had  been 
arrested  for  gambling  and  stealing,  and  were  forced,  in 


Courthouse  at  Hilo 

punishment,  to  work  upon  the  roads.  They  were  nearly 
all  Chinese,  or  Japanese.  There  were  no  white  men 
among  them,  and  only  a  few  Hawaiians.  At  night  they 
were  locked  up  in  a  small  house,  which  could  be  taken 
to  pieces  and  moved,  so  that  they  carried  it  with  them 
as  the  road  was  finished. 

^  The  man  in  charge  of  the  prisoners  did  not  watch 
them  very  closely,  and  was  quite  kind  to  them.  He 
said  that  they  did  not  often  try  to  run  away,  but  were 


64 

good-tempered  and  easy  to  control.  He  told  Mr.  Earle 
an  interesting  story  about  a  young  Japanese  who  lived 
at  Hilo.  He  was  a  cook  who  was  arrested  and  put 
into  jail  in  Hilo  for  fighting.  The  jailor  liked  him 
and  felt  that  he  had  not  intended  to  do  wrong,  so  he 
unlocked  the  jail  door  every  morning  and  let  him  out 
to  go  to  the  house  where  he  worked.  In  the  evening, 
when  he  had  cooked  his  master's  dinner  and  washed 
the  dishes,  he  walked  back  to  the  jail,  and  the  jailor 
locked  him  up  again.  He  did  this  until  the  Japanese 
had  been  in  jail  as  long  as  it  was  necessary  for  him  to 
stay. 

Usually,  the  Chinese  and  Japanese  are  industrious 
and  well-behaved.  Once  in  a  while  there  are  bad  men 
among  them,  but  there  are  rarely  many  men  in  the 
Hawaiian  prisons. 

The  road  was  smooth  and  hard.  It  ran  through  the 
forests,  and  there  was  deep  shade  a  great  part  of  the 
way.  Alice  did  not  realize  that  they  were  going  uphill 
all  the  time,  although  it  grew  cooler  as  they  approached 
the  volcano. 

In  the  first  forest  through  which  the  road  had  been 
made,  there  were  only  such  plants  and  trees  as  grow  in 
hot  countries.  Breadfruit  and  other  useful  trees  had 
been  planted  along  the  roadsides,  as  cherry  trees  are 
planted  along  the  roads  in  Germany. 

In  the  forests  there  were  tall,  branching  tree  ferns, 
palms,  and  bananas.  A  strange  vine,  called  the  i-a-i'-a^ 
wound  round  the  trunks  in  thick  coils  like  ropes.  The 
end,  which  swayed  to  and  fro,  was  like  the  yucca  which 
Alice  had  seen  growing  in  gardens  at  home.     In  the 


65 

center  of  the  stiff,  gray  leaves  was  a  long  scarlet  cone, 
like  a  very  large  pine  cone ;  this  was  the  flower  of  the 
iaia. 

Here  and  there  they  saw  deep  holes,  that  were  very 
broad  at  the  top,  narrowing  at  the  bottom,  until  there 


Breadfruit 


was  hardly  room  for  a  man  to  stand.  These  were 
the  craters  of  little  volcanoes.  Ferns  and  vines  grew 
over  the  walls  in  the  shade  and  dampness.  Alice 
thought  that  they  were  like  gardens,  which  grew  there 
without  having  to  be  watered  and  taken  care  of. 

At  noon  they  reached  the  Halfway  House,  a  small 

KROUT'S  HAWAII  —  5 


66 

hotel  in  the  forest,  where  they  were  glad  to  rest  for  an 
hour.  The  Halfway  House  was  built  upon  a  steep 
hill.  The  road  wound  up  to  the  door,  but  there  was  a 
shorter  path  by  a  flight  of  steps  made  of  logs.  For  the 
first  time  they  heard  a  great  many  birds.  The  lower 
forest  had  been  very  silent. 

They  sat  on  the  veranda  and  ate  their  luncheon,  and 
they  could  see  for  a  long  distance  up  and  down  the 
smooth,  shady  road.  When  they  set  out  again,  after 
their  noon  rest,  they  saw  cleared  spaces  here  and  there 
in  the  forest.  These  were  coffee  plantations,  and  the 
young  plants  were  growing  under  such  trees  as  had  been 
left  to  shade  them.  Alice  thought  that  it  must  take  a 
great  deal  of  patience  to  raise  coffee,  as  the  trees  do 
not  bear  fruit  for  three  or  four  years.  All  this  time 
they  must  be  watched  and  pruned,  and  kept  free  from 
blight  and  insects.  The  leaves  of  the  coffee  tree  are 
a  dark,  glossy  green.  The  flowers  are  pure  white  and 
very  fragrant,  like  orange  blossoms. 

The  driver  was  kept  busy  distributing  the  parcels 
he  had  brought  for  the  people  who  lived  in  the  houses 
which  could  be  seen  through  the  trees,  far  back  from 
the  road.  Sometimes  the  parcels  were  given  to  a  Ha- 
waiian servant  who  ran  down  to  the  road  to  get  them, 
when  she  heard  the  rattle  of  wheels.  At  other  times 
they  were  placed  in  little  boxes,  nailed  against  a  tree 
trunk,  where  they  were  safe.  Once  the  driver  hung  a 
beefsteak  tied  up  in  a  green  leaf,  to  a  hook  which  had 
been  driven  into  a  tree,  high  out  of  reach,  so  that  it 
might  be  safe  from  dogs. 

They  passed  many  Hawaiian  houses  made  of  wood, 


67 

which  were  not  clean  like  the  grass  huts  at  Wai- 
mea;  the  gardens  were  very  untidy.  Both  men  and 
women  sat  on  the  floor  of  their  verandas,  smoking 
pipes.      None  of    them  were   at  work.      Many  of   the 


Coffee  Plantation 


houses  were  surrounded  by  fences  made  of  the  trunks 
of  tree  ferns,  cut  into  pieces  two  or  three  feet  in  length. 
The  cutting  had  not  killed  the  wood,  which  had  sent  out 
young  shoots,  so  that  the  fence  was  almost  like  a  hedge 
of  growing  ferns. 

After   a   time,  they  reached  a  wide,  sloping  plain, 
whence  the  ocean  could  be  seen  surrounding  three  sides 


68 

of  the  island.  Far  off  rose  the  great  peaks  of  Mauna 
Loa  and  Mauna  Kea,  —  very  beautiful  with  their  snow- 
covered  tops  against  the  deep  blue  sky.  The  lower 
slopes  of  the  two  mountains  were  thick  with  dark  for- 
ests, in  which,  the  driver  said,  there  were  droves  of  wild 
cattle. 

The  plain  was  covered  with  the  most  wonderful  ferns 
that  Alice  had  ever  seen.  They  were  not  only  many 
shades  of  green,  but  also  pink,  and  red,  and  purple. 

In  a  little  while  they  entered  another  forest.  The 
weather  had  grown  very  chilly,  almost  like  an  autumn 
afternoon.  The  trees  were  now  of  a  different  kind 
from  those  seen  on  the  low,  hot  lands  near  Hilo.  Here 
they  saw  the  kou  and  the  koa  and  the  kukui,  which 
grow  best  in  the  cooler  regions.  Alice  saw  also  clusters 
of  wild  roses  growing  by  the  grassy  roadside. 

Just  as  the  sun  set  they  saw  before  them  a  steep  slope 
covered  with  trees  and  shrubs.  It  was  the  outer  wall 
of  the  great  volcano  of  Kilauea.  The  road  entered  a 
cleft  through  this  wooded  wall,  and  soon  they  reache^i 
the  edge  of  the  crater.  Within  the  wall,  which  was  a 
circle  nine  miles  around,  there  was  a  narrow,  grassy 
ledge,  upon  which  had  been  built  a  hotel.  Near  it  there 
was  a  fine  garden  full  of  beautiful  flowers.  In  front  of 
the  hotel  was  the  crater  of  Kilauea,  an  enormous  pit, 
into  which  they  could  look  very  easily.  It  was  shut  in 
by  high  cliffs,  so  steep  that  they  were  almost  like  walls 
of  stone.  A  narrow,  zigzag  path  had  been  made  by 
which  travelers  went  down  into  the  crater.  The  bed  of 
the  crater  was  hidden  in  the  dusk,  but  far  across  it,  at 
one  side,  was  a  great  lake  of  fire.     They  could  see  the 


69 

flames  and  the  smoke.  The  air  was  full  of  gas  and 
sulphur,  and  they  could  hear  a  noise  like  the  sound  of 
water  dashing  against  the  beach.  It  was  the  boiling 
lava  rising  and  falling  in  the  fiery  lake,  which  the 
Hawaiians  long  ago  had  named  Ha-le-mau-mau',  the 
"  house  of  everlasting  Fire." 

The  Hawaiians  used  to  think  that  a  very  cruel  spirit, 
named  Pe'le,  lived  in  Halemaumau,  and  they  were  care- 
ful not  to  make  her  angry.  They  tried  to  secure  her 
good  will  by  making  offerings  of  black  hens  and  black 
pigs,  of  which  she  was  supposed  to  be  very  fond. 

Mr.  Earle  arranged  to  go  down  into  the  crater  the 
next  day ;  then  they  all  returned  to  the  hotel  to  rest 
after  the  long  day's  drive. 


aXXc 


IX.    IN   THE   CRATER 

THE  next  day  was  very  cold,  and  from  her  window 
Alice  could  see  the  steam  and  smoke  hanging  over 
the  crater.  The  fires  were  much  dimmer  by  daylight, 
though  they  were  still  burning  fiercely,  and  she  could 
hear  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  lava,  which  sounded  like 
the  surf  beating  against  the  reef.  She  knew  it  was  still 
very  hot  in  Hilo,  and  that  it  was  colder  at  the  volcano 
only  because  they  were  four  thousand  feet  higher  than 
they  had  been  when  they  set  out  for  Kilauea  the  morn- 
ing before.  Fortunately  they  had  brought  plenty  of 
warm  clothing. 

At  breakfast  they  were  served  with  some  small  pink 


70 

berries,  called  o-he'los^  which  looked  very  much  like 
cranberries. 

The  ohelo  grows  on  the  rocky  ledge  near  the  hotel. 
For  a  long  time  the  people  were  afraid  to  eat  ohelos 
without  first  offering  a  few  to  Pele,  the  spirit  of  the 
lake,  who  was  supposed  to  be  very  fond  of  these 
berries. 

Mrs.  Earle  promised  that  when  they  came  up  out  of 
the  crater  she  would  tell  Alice  about  Kapiolani,  who 
made  the  people  understand  that  there  was  no  such 
spirit  as  Pele  and  that  any  one  might  gather  the  ohelos 
and  eat  them  without  harm. 

It  rained  in  the  morning,  but  in  the  afternoon  the 
guide  came  with  the  horses,  and  they  all  prepared  to 
ride  down  into  the  crater.  The  bottom,  or  floor  of  the 
crater,  was  much  narrower  than  the  top,  and  was  very 
irregular  in  outline.  It  was  completely  covered  with 
lava.  Some  of  this  lava  was  smooth  as  ice,  and  some 
was  jagged  and  twisted,  like  great  ropes.  It  looked 
very  dismal.  Everywhere  the  steam  came  up  through 
narrow  cracks  and  openings  in  the  lava. 

When  they  had  climbed  into  the  saddles,  the  guide 
led  the  way  and  they  followed.  Mr.  Earle  told  Alice 
to  hold  the  reins  firmly,  that  she  might  not  fall,  in  case 
the  horse  should  stumble.  A  timid  girl  would  not  have 
enjoyed  such  a  ride,  but  Alice  was  not  afraid,  although 
it  was  not  easy  for  her  to  keep  her  seat  in  the  saddle. 
As  they  wound  along  the  narrow  path,  the  earth  and 
stones  broke  loose  and  rattled  down  the  side  of  the  cliff. 

Alice  was  glad  when,  at  last,  they  reached  the  bottom. 
She  looked  around  and  thought  she  had  never  seen  so 


gloomy  a  place.  Everything  was  gray,  or  streaked  with 
color,  where  it  had  been  stained  by  the  steam.  A 
narrow  track  led  from  the  foot  of  the  cliff  to  the  fiery 
lake.  On  either  side  of  the  path  an  irregular  line  had 
been  made  of  blocks  of  lava  which  were  placed  several 
feet  apart,  that  the  horses  might  not   stray  from   the 


Crater  of  Kilauea 


path.  This  was  necessary ;  for  while  the  crust  was 
thick  in  some  places,  in  others  it  was  so  thin  that  it 
would  very  easily  have  broken  through  with  the  weight 
of  the  horses. 

As  the  party  drew  nearer  the  fiery  lake  Alice  was 
thankful  that  the  blocks  of  lava  had  been  placed  along 
the  path ;  for  the  steam  was  so  dense  that  they  had 
to  wait  until  it  cleared  away,  and  they  could  not  have 
kept  in  the  road  but  for  the  little  wall. 


72 

At  one  place  there  was  a  deep  chasm  over  which  a 
bridge  had  been  built.  This  had  opened  once,  when 
a  party  of  men  were  down  in  the  crater.  They  heard 
a  noise  like  thunder,  and  felt  the  earth  tremble  beneath 
their  feet.  The  cliffs  shook  as  if  they  would  fall, 
and  the  party  hurried  along  the  path,  following  the 
chasm  until  they  came  to  a  narrow  place  at  the  head 
of  it,  over  which  they  could  jump.  Then  they  climbed 
up  the  zigzag  path  to  the  top  and  were  saved.  But 
the  guides,  who  had  left  them,  were  badly  frightened, 
and  they  came  running  to  meet  them.  They  were  glad 
when  they  found  that  all  had  escaped  in  safety.  The 
shaking  of  the  earth  and  the  trembling  of  the  cliffs  had 
been  caused  by  other  fires,  like  those  in  the  boiling 
lake,  deep  down  out  of  sight  under  the  lava  crust. 
This  crust  was  raised  and  shaken  by  the  steam  and 
heat  inside. 

The  lava  takes  many  strange  forms.  As  it  flows  it 
falls  in  little  cascades,  which  harden  and  become  like 
stone.  There  are  hillocks  and  great  hollow  bubbles, 
and  blowholes,  like  chimneys,  through  which  the  steam 
and  smoke  rise  and  float  away. 

After  a  while  they  came  to  a  little  hut  not  far  from 
the  fiery  lake.  Here  they  left  their  horses  with  the 
guides,  and  went  the  rest  of  the  way  on  foot.  Alice 
could  feel  the  heat  of  the  lava  through  the  thick  soles 
of  her  boots,  which  were  quite  badly  scorched. 

The  lake,  close  at  hand,  looked  terrible  as  they 
approached  it.  It  was  a  thousand  feet  long  and  nearly 
as  wide,  and  it  had  built  up  all  around  the  margin  a 
rim   of   rough   lava.      A  great  deal  of  the  surface  of 


73 

the  lake  was  covered  with  a  gray  scum.  The  scum 
wrinkled  and  cracked  in  every  direction,  and  out  of 
the  seams  little  jets  of  flame  burst  forth.  They  hissed 
and  burned  brightly,  just  as  Alice  had  seen  the  flames 
break  from  a  piece  of  burning  coal.  Sometimes  the 
smoke  burst  out,  before  the  flame  appeared. 


Lava  Overflow 


There  were  hundreds  of  these  little  hissing  fires. 
But  the  most  awful  of  all  were  two  great  fountains 
of  fire  which  rose  and  fell  without  ceasing.  They 
leaped  high  into  the  air,  and  fell  back  into  the  lake 
with  a  roar  like  that  of  the  sea.  Even  near  at  hand 
one  could  not  hear  another  speak. 
^  The  boiling  lava  in  the  lake,  which  was  white  hot 
everywhere  beneath  the  scum,  did  not  flow  over  the 
lava  rim,  so  they  could  walk  quite   close  to  it.      The 


74 

heat  burned  their  faces,  and  the  gas  would  have  suf- 
focated them,  had  they  not  covered  their  mouths  with 
their  handkerchiefs.  The  guides  who  had  come  with 
them  to  the  lake  were  not  afraid.  They  dipped  pieces 
of  money  in  the  hot  lava.  When  it  grew  cool  it 
hardened,  and  they  sold  it  to  travelers. 

Mr.  Earle  picked  up  something  that  looked  like  a 
bundle  of  fine  threads  of  glass,  such  as  Alice  had  seen 


Lava  Overflow  and  Fall 


at  the  glass  blower's.  The  gray  scum  was  very  much 
like  melted  glass,  and  bits  of  it  were  caught  up  by 
the  wind  and  blown  away.  As  it  was  borne  along  it 
lengthened  out  into  long  threads  or  filaments.  It  was 
called  "  Pele's  hair,"  and  travelers  were  always  glad  to 
find  it. 

Mr.  Earle  told  Alice  that  where  it  overflows  the  lake, 
the  lava  moves  very  slowly,  and  the  outside  crust  soon 
grows   cool.     Under   the  surface  the   lava   keeps  hot, 


75 

sometimes  for  a  whole  year.  The  fire  in  the  lake  often 
goes  out  entirely.  It  is  thought  that  the  boiling  lava 
then  escapes  through  a  crack  or  fissure  in  the  bed  of 
the  lake,  into  channels  or  caverns  far  down  under  the 
ground.  Nothing  is  left  then,  but  a  dark,  deep  hole. 
After  a  long  time,  sometimes  weeks  or  months,  smoke 
may  rise  from  the  empty  bed.  Then  the  fire  appears, 
and  the  lava  begins  to  boil  up  and  up,  until  the  lake  is 
once  more  quite  full  to  the  top.  It  may  burn  for  weeks 
and  months,  and  then  disappear.  It  has  done  this  for 
many  ages. 

Once  the  red-hot  lava  made  a  passage  for  itself 
under  the  wall  of  the  crater,  and  came  to  the  surface 
of  the  ground  outside.  It  then  began  to  flow  down  the 
sloping  land  to  the  sea.  It  was  like  a  great,  red-hot 
river  of  melted  iron,  and  by  its  fight  people  could  read 
a  long  distance  away.  As  it  flowed  it  burned  every- 
thing in  its  path. 

When  evening  came  on,  the  guide  said  that  they 
must  return  to  the  hut,  for  it  was  not  safe  to  stay  in 
the  crater  after  nightfall. 

As  they  rode  back  across  the  lava  the  fires  were  still 
seen  flaming,  and  the  smoke  and  steam  were  blown 
across  their  path.  The  stars  were  shining  brightly  in 
the  heavens,  and  the  new  moon  hung  above  the  crater, 
making  altogether  a  grand  and  impressive  scene. 


76 


X.   THE  STORY  OF  KAPIOLANI 

IN  the  morning,  Alice  and  her  mother  sat  on  the 
veranda  of  the  hotel,  overlooking  the  crater.  They 
could  see  the  lava  boiling  over  the  rim  of  the  lake 
where  they  had  stood  the  day  before. 

Alice  was  looking  thoughtfully  at  a  piece  of  Pele's 
hair  which  she  held  in  her  hand,  and  that  reminded  her 
to  ask  her  mother  to  tell  her  the  story  of  Pele  and 
Kapiolani.     This  is  the  story  as  Mrs.  Earle  told  it : 

Kapiolani,  a  Hawaiian  chief,  was  a  noble-hearted 
woman.  Before  the  missionaries  came  from  our  coun- 
try and  from  England  to  teach  the  people  of  Hawaii, 
the  chiefs  were  often  ignorant  and  cruel.  They  could 
put  to  death  any  one  they  chose,  and  they  used  their 
power  most  unmercifully,  until  the  missionaries,  for 
whom  they  had  the  greatest  respect,  taught  them  how 
wicked  it  was  to  treat  their  subjects  with  such  cruelty. 

Many  of  the  Hawaiians  had  lost  faith  in  their  idols 
and  their  gods,  the  spirits  supposed  to  live  in  the  sea 
and  earth  and  air,  and,  for  a  while,  they  had  no  religion. 
It  was  for  this  reason  easy  to  persuade  them  to  become 
Christians.  But  there  were  others  who  still  feared  the 
old  gods,  and  were  afraid  of  angering  them.  The  gods 
they  feared  most  were  the  shark  god,  and  Pele,  who, 
they  thought,  lived  in  the  crater. 

It  was  hard  to  convince  them  that  there  was  no  such 
spirit  as  Pele,  for  they  thought  if  any  one  disobeyed 
her,  she  would  strike  him  dead.  The  missionaries  had 
tried  in  vain  to  show  the  Hawaiians  that  this  idea  was 


77 

false,  but  the  people  were  still  in  deadly  fear  of  this 
spirit. 

At  last  the  chief,  Kapiolani,  who  had  become  a  Chris- 
tian, said  that  she  would  go  to  Kilauea  and  prove  that 
the  story  was  false.  She  lived  a  long  distance  from 
the  volcano,  but  she  got  everything  ready,  bid  her 
friends  good-by,  and  set  forth  on  the  journey.  The 
road  was  then  but  a  narrow  track  through  the  tangled 
woods,  over  the  rough  lava. 

It  was  a  journey  of  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles,  and  Kapiolani  and  the  people  who  accompanied 
her  walked  nearly  all  the  way.  There  was  no  comfort- 
able Halfway  House  where  they  could  rest.  They 
had  to  bring  their  food  and  beds  with  them,  and  they 
were  many  days  on  the  way. 

Kapiolani's  companions  were  very  sad.  They  knew 
that  they  could  not  persuade  her  to  give  up  the  visit  to 
the  crater,  and  they  feared  that  they  would  never 
return  to  their  homes.  But  Kapiolani  herself  was  not 
in  the  least  anxious.  She  laughed  away  the  fears  of 
her  companions  and  cheered  them  as  they  approached 
the  volcano. 

The  common  people  did  not  often  go  very  close  to 
Kilauea,  but  the  priests  and  priestesses  had  their  huts 
at  the  top  of  the  cliff.  They  pretended  to  talk  to  Pele, 
and  would  tell  the  people  what  she  said  to  them.  In 
this  way  they  made  the  foolish  Hawaiians  obey  them 
and  bring  them  presents  of  food  and  clothing. 

One  of  these  priests  was  a  tall,  fierce  man  who  was 
much  feared,  and  his  sister  who  lived  with  him  at  the 
volcano  was  powerful  and  cruel.      But  they  became 


78 

Christians  and  then  departed  from  Kilauea  to  live  peace- 
fully among  the  missionaries. 

The  sun  had  gone  down  when  Kapiolani  reached 
the  volcano,  and  she  could  see  the  red  glow  of  the  fire 
in  the  sky.  A  priestess  came  to  meet  her  and  told  her 
to  go  back,  but  she  would  not  listen.  The  priestess 
then  told  her  that  she  and  all  the  people  with  her 
would  perish  if  she  came  any  nearer.  But  even  this 
did  not  frighten  Kapiolani,  and  as  she  was  a  great  chief, 
the  priests  could  not  forbid  her  to  do  as  she  pleased. 

She  gathered  some  of  the  ohelo  berries  from  the 
ground,  but,  instead  of  following  the  custom  of  throw- 
ing a  few  into  the  crater  and  crying,  "  Pele,  here 
are  your  ohelos,  I  offer  you  some,  some  I  also  eat," 
Kapiolani  ate  her  berries  at  once,  while  the  people 
watched  her  with  awe  and  trembling.  To  their  aston- 
ishment nothing  happened.  Kapiolani  neither  vanished 
from  their  sight,  nor  was  she  stricken  to  the  ground  by 
the  angry  spirit,  as  they  fully  expected.  There  she 
stood  smiling,  safe  and  sound. 

Then,  with  eighty  of  her  companions,  she  walked 
down  the  steep  path  into  the  crater.  When  she  reached 
the  edge  of  the  fiery  lake  she  cried  out  in  a  loud  voice : 
"  The  God  who  has  made  Kilauea  is  my  God,  and  He 
alone  has  kindled  the  fires  of  the  volcano.  I  do  not 
fear  Pele.  If  I  perish  through  her  anger,  then  con- 
tinue to  stand  in  awe  of  her ;  but  if  I  come  away  un- 
harmed, I  hope  you  will  believe  in  the  true  God." 
They  waited,  hardly  daring  to  breathe,  but  still  nothing 
happened.  The  fires  burned  just  as  they  had  burned 
before.     The  smoke  rose  to  the  sky,  and  blew  away. 


79 

There  was  no  sound  save  that  of  Kapiolani's  voice,  and 
of  the  waves  of  fire  rising  and  falling.  When  they 
saw  that  they  were  quite  safe,  they  sang  a  hymn,  and 
then  went  up  out  of  the  crater.  It  must  have  been  a 
solemn  sight  to  see  the  people  waiting  by  the  lake  of 
fire  to  learn  the  lesson  Kapiolani  wished  to  teach  —  that 
their  thoughts  about  Pele  were  but  illusions.  Thence- 
forth the  priests  received  no  more  presents,  and  no  more 
offerings  were  made  to  the  spirit,  and  to-day  nobody  is 
afraid  of  Pele. 

XL     THE   FEAST 

THE  Hawaiians  of  old  were  generally  people  of 
cleanly  habits.  They  often  bathed  in  the  surf, 
and  their  tapa  mantles  were  not  easily  soiled.  They 
were  also  much  more  careful  about  their  food  than  the 
people  of  Africa,  or  some  of  the  tribes  of  Indians,  who 
will  eat  almost  anything. 

They  had  a  peculiar  way  of  cooking,  which  is  not 
common  now,  except  among  those  who  live  far  away 
from  the  villages  and  plantations,  on  the  less  thickly 
settled  islands.  When  the  white  people  wish  to  enter- 
tain their  friends  in  the  pleasantest  way  they  can 
think  of,  they  employ  a  Hawaiian  to  prepare  a  native 
feast,  or  lu-au\  at  which  the  food  is  cooked  in  the 
native  manner.  Invitations  to  such  a  feast  are  eagerly 
accepted. 

While  they  were  in  Hilo,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Earle  and 
Alice  were  invited  to  one  of  these  feasts,  given  in  their 


8o 


honor.  The  house  to  which  they  were  invited  was  a 
bungalow,  like  Mr.  Danvers's  house,  with  wide,  shady- 
verandas.  The  feast  was  to  be  held  in  a  mango  grove 
behind  the  house.  The  night  before,  the  Hawaiian  who 
was  to  do  the  cooking  got  his  supplies  together,  and 
made  all  his  preparations.     A  deep  hole  was  dug  in  the 


A  Native  Feast 


ground.  This  was  lined  with  stones,  upon  which  a  fire 
was  built,  and  the  stones  were  heated  red-hot.  They 
were  then  allowed  to  cool  a  little,  after  which  they  were 
covered  with  a  thick  layer  of  taro  leaves. 

The  food  to  be  cooked  was  fish,  fowl,  pork,  and  sweet 
potatoes.  The  fish,  fowl,  and  pork  were  cut  into  pieces, 
and  each  piece  was  carefully  wrapped  by  itself  in  a  ti 
leaf.     This  is  the  broad,  tough  leaf  of  a  tree  that  grows 


8i 

nearly  everywhere  in  the  fertile  parts  of  the  Islands. 
It  has  a  long  stem.  It  is  used  instead  of  paper  for 
wrapping  up  meat  and  other  things  bought  in  the  mar- 
ket. The  edges  of  the  leaf  are  tightly  twisted  together, 
and  the  long  stem  forms  a  sort  of  handle,  by  which  the 
parcel  is  carried,  like  a  leaf  basket. 

When  the  leaves  are  wrapped  around  the  fish  and 
pork  to  be  cooked,  the  stem  is  left  as  a  handle.  These 
little  bundles  are  placed  in  the  oven  in  layers,  with  a 
taro  leaf  between  each  layer,  which  gives  the  food 
a  pleasant  flavor.  When  the  oven  is  partly  full  a  little 
water  is  poured  in,  and  then  some  earth,  and  the  food 
is  left  to  cook  for  many  hours. 

When  in  the  old  days  a  feast  was  given  for  the  king 
or  the  queen,  or  for  a  chief,  an  arbor  of  bamboo  was 
built,  and  this  was  covered  with  flowers  and  with  the 
ma-i'le^  3.  vine  with  very  sweet-smelling  leaves,  and  the 
feast  was  spread  on  the  ground  under  the  arbor. 

There  was  no  arbor  for  the  feast  to  which  Alice  was 
invited.  The  food  was  spread  on  the  grass  under  the 
algaroba  trees.  There  was  no  linen  tablecloth,  but  the 
ground  was  covered  very  thickly  with  large  ferns,  and 
at  each  place  was  a  ti  leaf,  upon  which  the  fingers  could 
be  wiped.  Down  the  middle  of  the  fern  tablecloth 
were  placed  a  number  of  large  polished  calabashes. 
These  were  filled  with  poi,  and  scattered  among  them 
were  tender  young  onions,  and  water  lemons  which 
Alice  at  first  thought  were  little  gourds.  There  were 
also  a  great  many  flowers,  without  which  no  table  in 
Hawaii  is  ever  complete. 

Before  the  feast  was  ready,  the  guests  were  given  a 

KROUT'S   HAWAII  —  6 


82 

long  garland  of  the  sweet,  dark  green  maile,  which 
each  one  was  expected  to  wear.  There  were  no  chairs 
at  this  Hawaiian  feast,  and  all  sat  upon  the  ground,  in 
picnic  fashion.  Then  the  hot  food  was  brought  in  by 
the  cook,  who  had  taken  great  pains,  and  seemed  very 
proud  when  his  cooking  was  praised.  A  smoking  mor- 
sel, done  up  in  a  ti  leaf,  was  carried  by  the  stem,  and 
placed  in  front  of  each  guest,  who  opened  it  and  ate  the 
meat  with  the  fingers,  in  the  real  Hawaiian  fashion.  It 
seemed  to  Alice  very  untidy,  and  those  who  were  used 
to  knives  and  forks  did  not  quite  know  how-to  do  with- 
out them. 

At  each  place  there  had  been  set  a  little  dish  filled 
with  chopped  cocoanut  and  sea  water,  and  the  fowl  and 
pork  were  dipped  into  this  as  a  relish,  which  was  also  a 
Hawaiian  custom. 

The  poi,  which  was  eaten  with  the  fingers,  was  hard 
to  manage,  but  the  Hawaiian  guests  ate  it  without  any 
trouble,  dipping  it  out  of  the  calabash,  rolling  it  into 
a  ball  on  the  tip  of  the  finger,  and  tossing  it  into  the 
mouth,  without  spilling  a  drop.  Alice  was  afraid  to  try 
it,  when  she  saw  that  even  her  mother  spilled  it,  and 
she  asked  for  a  spoon,  which  was  against  the  rules  at 
a  luau. 

They  were  all  very  hungry,  and  Alice  thought  that 
no  fish  or  chicken  she  had  ever  eaten  had  tasted  so 
good  as  this  cooked  in  a  little  Hawaiian  oven  in  the 
ground.  The  onions,  sweet  potatoes,  and  salted  shrimps 
were  eaten  with  the  pork  and  fish.  The  Hawaiians  of 
old  never  cooked  shrimps ;  they  brought  them  to  the  table, 
where  they  crawled  about  and  were  eaten  alive.      Alice 


83 


was  glad  that  this  unpleasant  way  of   eating  shrimps 
had  gone  out  of  fashion. 

For  dessert  they  had  melons  and  mangoes,  and  the 
juicy  water  lemons;  and  they  drank  cocoanut  milk. 
Alice  did  not  think  the  mangoes  were  half  so  good  as 
ripe  peaches  or  apples.     The  thick,  coarse  rind,  which 


A  Band  of  Singers 

had  a  taste  like  turpentine,  spoiled  the  fruit  if  it  touched 
the  pulp,  and  the  stone  was  very  large  and  hard. 

When  the  feast  was  nearly  over,  a  band  of  singers  came 
with  their  little  mandolins,  and  they  sang  and  played  for 
the  guests.  When  they  had  finished,  it  was  time  to  start 
back  to  the  hotel. 

XII.    A   SUGAR   PLANTATION 


BEFORE    they  returned   to    Honolulu,  Alice   went 
with   her  father  to  see  one  of   the  large   sugar 
plantations  near  Hilo.     No  wheat,  or  corn,  except  th^ 


84 


little  that  is  raised  in  the  Chinese  gardens,  grows 
in  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  but  very  few  potatoes 
are  raised  there.  Those  that  are  sold  in  the  market  are 
sent  to  the  Islands  either  from  our  country  or  from 
New  Zealand. 

A  great  part  of  the  fertile  land  is  planted  with  sugar 


Eating  Sugar  Cane 

cane,  which  has  always  grown  in  the  Islands,  but  has 
been  much  improved  by  cultivation. 

The  cane  grows  very  tall  and  is  a  bright  yellow-green, 
with  blossoms  like  the  sorghum.  The  stalk  is  filled 
with  pith  like  the  cornstalk,  but  more  juicy.  From  this 
sweet  juice  the  sugar  is  extracted. 

The  cane  does  not  grow  from  seed,  but  from  cuttings 
planted  in  furrows.  The  sugar  cane  in  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  yields  more  sugar  than  that  grown  in  our  South- 


85 

ern  states,  where  often  the  cold  weather  comes  before 
the  cane  is  fully  ripe. 

The  cane  is  cut  by  Japanese  laborers.  Alice  had 
seen  them  at  work  in  the  fields  the  day  she  went  to 
the  volcano.  They  had  short,  sharp  knives,  with  which 
they  cut  down  the  long  stalks.  The  cane  must  be  sent 
to  the  mills  as  soon  as  it  is  cut.  Otherwise  it  ferments, 
in  which  case  it  is  fit  for  nothing  but  fuel. 

Some  of  the  fields  are  crossed  by  little  railway  lines 
that  can  be  moved  from  place  to  place.  The  cane  is 
loaded  on  to  small  cars  and  taken  in  this  way  to  the 
mill.  Alice  took  a  ride  on  one  of  these  trains  of  cars 
before  the  cane  was  cut.  It  was  very  pleasant  to  go 
flying  through  the  fields,  with  the  tall  cane  growing 
higher  than  a  man's  head,  in  every  direction. 

In  fields  where  there  is  no  railway,  there  are  wooden 
troughs  on  high  trestles.  These  are  filled  with  water, 
and  a  slight  incline  toward  the  mill  makes  a  strong  cur- 
rent. The  cane  is  carried  from  the  fields  to  this  flume, 
or  trough,  and  is  floated  quickly  down  to  the  mill. 
When  the  supply  of  cane  runs  low  the  engineer  whis- 
tles for  more.  When  the  grinding  begins  the  mills 
run  day  and  night. 

There  is  no  special  season  for  planting  cane  in  the 
Hawaiian  Islands,  as  in  a  country  where  the  cane  must 
be  cut  before  the  cold  weather  comes.  Sometimes  the 
planting,  cutting,  and  grinding  all  go  on  at  the  same 
time.  The  mill  is  a  very  busy  place,  lit  up  at  night  by 
electric  Hght. 

When  the  cane  reaches  the  mill  it  is  cut  into  pieces. 
This  work  is  often  done  by  Japanese  women.    The  cane 


86 


is  then  torn  into  shreds  by  a  machine  called  a  shredder. 
The  mass  of  shredded  cane  is  passed  under  heavy  rol- 
lers until  it  is  squeezed  dry.  The  juice  is  a  pale  green. 
This  is  boiled  until  a  thick,  gray  scum  rises  to  the  top, 
a  little  lime  being  put  into  the  juice  to  destroy  the  acid, 
which  would  prevent  the   sugar   from    forming.     The 


Loading  Cane  on  the  Cars 

juice  is  allowed  to  cool,  and  the  scum  is  taken  off  until 
the  juice  is  quite  clear.  It  is,  however,  purified  still 
more  by  being  strained  through  bags,  and  then  the 
pure  juice  is  placed  in  open  pans  so  that  the  watery 
part  may  evaporate,  that  is,  pass  off  into  the  air.  That 
which  remains  is  the  molasses.  It  is  boiled  again,  in  a 
large  vessel  called  a  vacuum  pan.  Now  it  begins  to 
turn  into  sugar.     It  is  very  important  that  it  should  not 


87 

boil  too  long  in  the  vacuum  pan,  as  this  wastes  the  sugar. 
Last  of  all  it  is  placed  in  large  vessels  which  whirl  rap- 
idly round  and  round.  The  sugar  separates  from  the 
molasses  and  settles  in  a  thick  coating  around  the  sides 
of  the  vessel.     The  molasses  still  left  runs  out  through 


Quarters  on  a  Sugar  Plantation 

a  strainer  of  wire  gauze  and  is  collected  in  a  large  vat 
down  under  the  mill.  Sometimes  this  molasses  is  boiled 
over,  and  more  sugar  is  obtained  from  it,  but  not  of  so 
good  a  quality  as  that  made  first.  All  this  is  done  very 
quickly,  and  a  few  hours  from  the  time  the  cane  is  put 
into  the  shredder,  the  pale  yellow  sugar  is  dry  and  ready 
to  be  put  into  bags  to  be  shipped  to  the  United  States. 


88 


There,  by  a  long  and  tedious  process  called  refining, 
the  pure  white  sugar  is  made. 

The  little  houses  of  the  Japanese  laborers  who  work 
in  the  cornfields  were  interesting  to  see.  They  were 
clustered  together  in  a  deep  gorge  near  a  stream.  The 
steep    roofs   were    made   of   overlapping    palm    leaves. 


Japanese  House 


Every  cottage  had  a  pretty  garden  of  flowers  and 
vegetables,  for  the  Japanese,  like  the  Hawaiians,  are 
great  lovers  of  flowers. 

These  laborers  come  from  Japan  to  work  on  the 
sugar  plantations,  agreeing  to  stay  three  years,  after 
which  they  are  free  to  return  to  Japan.  This  they  are 
not  always  ready  to  do,  for  they  can  earn  much  more 


89 

money  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  live  with  greater 
comfort  there  than  in  their  own  country.  The  planter 
not  only  pays  them  wages,  but  provides  them  with 
houses,  with  fuel  for  their  fires,  and  with  a  doctor 
when  they  are  ill.  Sunday  is  a  day  of  rest  on  the 
plantations,  a  holiday  which  the  Japanese  do  not  have 
in  Japan. 

The  mills  furnish  work  for  the  women,  also,  if  they 
desire  it.  As  the  Japanese  are  very  frugal,  and  do  not 
waste  their  wages,  when  they  go  back  to  Japan  with 
the  money  they  have  earned  and  saved  in  Hawaii,  they 
are  considered  rich. 

Alice  was  much  interested  in  the  pretty  children  play- 
ing about  the  doors,  or  following  their  mothers  who 
were  tying  up  the  vines,  or  were  busy  among  the 
flowers.  A  lovely  spot  was  that  deep,  shady  ravine, 
with  the  clear  stream  running  down  to  the  sea,  and 
Alice  did  not  wonder  that  the  Japanese  are  so  happy 
and  contented,  and  that  many  of  them  do  not  care  to 
return  to  their  own  country.  It  is  pleasant  for  them  to 
live  where  they  can  always  have  work,  where  there  is 
no  winter,  no  frost  or  snow,  and  where  the  flowers 
bloom  the  whole  year  round. 


^iO- 


90 


XIII.    MAUI 


ALICE  was  sorry  when  the  visit  to  Hilo  came  to  an 
end.  She  had  learned  to  love  the  pretty  village 
with  its  gardens  of  roses  and  steep,  shady  streets. 

They  could  not  stay  longer  because  they  were  to  make 
a  short  visit  to  Mau'i  before  they  returned  to  Honolulu, 
and  they  planned  also  to  take  a  trip  to  Kau-ai',  which  is 
northwest  of  Oahu. 

They  sailed  up  the  eastern  or  windward  side,  which, 
unlike  the  leeward  side,  is  rich  with  plantations,  and 
dense  growths  of  ferns  and  bananas.  Through  this 
tangle  of  plants  and  flowers,  countless  streams,  clear  as 
crystal,  pour  down  into  the  sea.  There  are  little  spar- 
kling rivulets,  misty  waterfalls,  and  rushing  cascades. 

In  the  afternoon  the  steamer  anchored  near  a  small 
Hawaiian  village,  and  Alice  went  ashore  with  her  father. 
The  village  was  not  clean,  and  the  people  sitting  in 
their  doorways  looked  idle  and  untidy. 

Far  up  the  mountain  side  could  be  seen  tiny  cottages 
like  small  white  specks  surrounded  by  gardens.  Still 
farther  off  there  were  several  fine  houses  in  which  the 
planters  lived.  Maui  in  the  distance  looked  like  a  great 
rounded  mountain. 

They  left  the  windward  side  of  Hawaii  and  crossed 
the  channel  to  the  barren  coast  of  Maui.  There  they 
took  on  board  a  number  of  pigs.  These  were  driven 
down  to  the  edge  of  the  water,  where  they  were  caught 
by  the  leg  and  nose  and  thrown  into  a  barge  which  lay 
close  to  the  shore.      The  barge  then  went  out  to  the 


91 

steamer,  which  lay  in  the  roadstead  (a  calm  place  where 
ships  can  anchor),  because  there  was  no  pier  where  it 
could  land.  The  poor  pigs  seemed  to  know  that  they 
were  being  taken  from  their  home,  for  they  struggled 
and  squealed  most  pitifully. 


Dense  Growths  of  Fern 


Mr.  Earle  and  Alice  did  not  like  to  see  the  pigs  put 
into  the  barge,  so  they  went  up  on  the  mountain  side 
for  a  walk.  It  was  very  steep  and  rough,  with  but  few 
trees,  and  only  a  little  coarse  grass.  Large  blocks  and 
fragments  of  lava  were  scattered  about.  They  could 
see  the  houses  far  below  them,  and  the  steamer,  with 


92 

the  people  walking  about  the  deck.     When  the  whistle 

blew  they  were  rowed  back  to  the  steamer,  which  then 

went  on  its  way. 

Late  in  the  evening  they  reached  La-hai'na,  where 

they  were  to  stay  for  a  few  days. 

As  the  sun  set  they  saw  a  large  whale,  not  very  far 

away,  and   Mr.  Earle  told  Alice  that  there  were  always 

a  great  many  whales  in  that  channel. 

At  Lahaina  there  were  carriages  waiting  to  meet  the 

passengers  who  went   ashore.      In  one  of   these  Mr. 

Earle  and  his  party  were  driven  to  the  house  they  were 

to  visit. 

Maui  is  almost  like  two  islands,  united  by  a  narrow, 

sandy  isthmus.     Thistle  and  indigo  are  the  only  plants 

that  thrive  in  this  sandy  isthmus.  As  the  sea  washes 
the  shore  to  the  north  and  south,  the  wind  blows  across 
the  isthmus  nearly  all  the  time.  The  road  is  buried, 
and  the  air  is  filled  with  clouds  of  dust.  It  is  some- 
times very  hard  for  travelers  to  keep  in  the  path.  The 
isthmus  is  about  eight  miles  wide. 

In  the  smaller  part  of  Maui,  which,  like  the  village,  is 
called  Lahaina,  there  is  a  valley  called  I-a'o,  which  vis- 
itors to  Maui  always  go  to  see.  It  is  walled  in  by 
cliffs  from  three  thousand  to  six  thousand  feet  high. 
The  trail,  or  road,  runs  through  a  deep  gorge  covered 
with  forests.  The  walls  of  the  cliffs,  which  inclose 
the  valley  on  three  sides,  are  covered  with  pale 
green  candle  nut  trees,  and  with  thousands  of  ferns. 
Streams  and  waterfalls  flow  down  the  cliffs  in  every 
direction.  They  empty  into  a  very  swift  stream  called 
Wai-lu'ku.      Wailuku  means  "waters    of  destruction." 


93 

The  stream  received  its  name  in  memory  of  a  great  battle 
fought  in  the  lao  valley,  in  which  many  men  were  killed 


(Copyright,  1899,  hy  C.  C.  LangiU 


The  Needles 


White  clouds  float  across  the  face  of  the  cliff,  and 
with  these  the  whole  valley  is  sometimes  filled. 

From  the  village  of  Waihiku  there  is  a  little  railway 
leading  to  the  large  sugar  plantations  at  Spreckelsville. 


94 

Mr.  Earle's  main  purpose  in  Maui  was  to  visit  Ha-le- 
a-ka-la',  the  largest  extinct  volcano  on  the  globe.  The 
name  means  "  the  house  of  the  sun."  The  great 
hollow  crater  is  eighteen  miles  around,  and  when,  ages 
ago,  it  was  alive  with  flaming  fire  and  boiling  lava,  the 
name  was  very  appropriate. 

There  is  no  comfortable  way  of  making  the  journey 


Village  of  Wailuku 

to  the  top  of  Haleakala,  so,  much  to  Alice's  regret,  she 
and  her  mother  remained  behind. 

The  party  which  ]y[r.  Earle  joined  started  in  the 
afternoon  from  Ma-ka-wa'o,  which  is  some  distance  up 
the  mountain  side.  The  road  was  rough,  and  it  rained 
very  hard.  Late  in  the  evening,  when  they  were 
almost  at  the  top,  they  halted  and  prepared  to  camp 
until  daylight. 


95 

A  fire  was  made,  supper  was  cooked,  and  they  lay 
down  to  sleep,  rolled  up  in  their  blankets  ;  but  they  were 
kept  awake  by  the  bitter  cold  and  the  wind.  The  cold 
had  grown  more  intense  as  they  approached  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  which  was  ten  thousand  feet  high. 

The  lower  slopes  of  the  mountains  were  covered  with 
forests,  but  higher  up  there  were  only  tough  shrubs, 


On  Top  of  Haleakala 

coarse  grass  and  ferns,  and  scoriae  or  ashes.  At  the 
very  top  there  were  more  scoriae  but  very  few  ferns. 

When  they  reached  the  top  they  stood  looking  down 
into  the  hollow  shell  of  Haleakala,  shut  in  by  walls 
eighteen  miles  around.  The  crater  lay  two  thousand 
feet  below.  Beneath  this  bed  were  layers  upon  layers 
of  lava,  which  had  cooled  and  hardened,  until  they 
were  like  stone. 

The  floor  of  Haleakala  is  not  level,  or  ridged,  like 


96 

that  of  Kilauea,  but  jagged  and  broken ;  and  there  are 
cones  that  are  as  high  as  very  high  hills.  Along  the 
north  and  east  wall,  inside  the  crater,  are  two  great 
openings,  Ko-o-lau'  and  Kau'po  Gaps.  At  some  time, 
long  ago,  when  the  fires  were  burning  in  Haleakala, 
the  lava  forced  its  way  through  these  gaps,  down  the 
mountain  side  into  the  sea.  Such  a  stream  of  red-hot 
lava  poured  out  of  Kilauea  about  fifty  years  ago,  and 
heated  the  water  so  that  thousands  of  fish  were  killed. 
How  it  must  have  hissed  and  steamed,  and  what  a  terri- 
fying sight  it  must  have  been  ! 

The  rocks  and  lava  in  the  crater  of  Haleakala  are 
colored  by  the  fierce  heat,  as  though  they  had  just  been 
cooled.  At  times  clouds  moved  across  the  crater,  hiding 
it  altogether  from  view ;  then  they  broke  away  and  the 
sun  shone  brightly ;  and  at  one  time  they  settled  down 
within  the  crater,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  sea  of 
milk-white  foam,  rising  and  falling  and  gliding  away. 

Mr.  Earle  brought  Alice  some  silver  swords,  strange 
plants  that  grow  thickly  on  the  top  of  the  mountain 
near  the  crater.  They  are  a  shimmering  white,  and  the 
long  slender  leaves  look  as  if  they  were  cut  out  of  strips 
of  frosted  silver. 


>>«<t 


XIV.  THE  STORY  OF  CAPTAIN  COOK 

ALICE  had  been  wondering  for  some  time  why  she 
saw  so  few  animals  in  the  Islands,  and  she  was  all 
the  more  surprised  to  learn  that  before  the  coming  of 


97 

the  white  man  there  had  been  fewer  still.  Pigs,  dogs, 
and  mice  were  the  only  animals  to  be  found  there  before 
the  visit  of  the  famous  Captain  Cook,  who  brought  with 
him  three  goats,  a  boar,  and  a  pig  of  English  breed. 
Alice  had  never  heard  of  Captain  Cook,  and  in  answer 
to  her  many  questions,  her  father  told  her  the  following 
story : 

Captain  Cook  was  a  fearless  English  sailor,  who,  on 
his  third  voyage  of  discovery  round  the  globe,  landed, 
in  1778,  with  his  two  ships,  the  Resolution  and  the 
Discovery^  on  the  island  of  Kauai. 

He  was  not  the  first  white  man  to  visit  Hawaii,  but 
the  few  Spaniards  who  had  stopped  there,  more  than 
two  hundred  years  before  him,  had  long  since  been  for- 
gotten. 

Now  it  so  happened  that  the  Hawaiians  believed  in  a 
god,  Lo'no,  who,  they  thought,  had  left  their  Islands  to 
visit  another  country,  but  would  some  day  return ;  so 
when  they  saw  this  odd-looking  man  come  sailing  toward 
them  in  his  strange  ship,  at  once  they  thought  it  must 
be  Lono.  Soon  the  people  gathered  in  crowds  on  the 
shore,  and  some  of  them,  though  they  feared  to  go  on 
board,  rowed  out  near  the  vessel. 

When  Captain  Cook  went  ashore,  the  people  were  so 
frightened  that  they  fell  flat  on  their  faces.  But  he 
made  them  understand  that  he  would  not  hurt  them, 
and  then  they  were  more  certain  than  ever  that  he  was  a 
god.  A  priest  recited  a  long  prayer,  after  which  the 
people  brought  offerings  of  vegetables,  pigs,  and  fruit. 
Captain  Cook,  in  return,  gave  them  nails  and  scraps  of 
iron,  which  they  valued  as  a  precious  metal,  for  iron  was 

KROUT's   HAWAII  —  7 


98 

nowhere  found  on  the  Islands,  and  they  used  it  for  brace- 
lets and  other  ornaments,  and  for  weapons. 

Captain  Cook  visited  the  island  of  Ni-i-hau',  and  he 
left  there  seeds  of  melons,  pumpkins,  and  onions. 
The  chiefs  had  been  prepared  by  their  neighbors  for 


An  Offering  to  Captain  Cook 


something  strange,  but  none  the  less  they  were  startled 
by  the  sight  of  the  foreigners.  One  of  the  Hawaiians 
thus  described  the  Englishmen  : 

"  The  men  are  white  ;  their  skin  is  loose  and  folding ; 
their  heads  are  angular  ;  fire  and  smoke  issue  from  their 
mouths ;  they  have  openings  in  the  sides  of  their  bodies, 


99 

into  which  they  thrust  their  hands,  and  draw  forth  iron, 
beads,  nails,  and  other  treasures ;  their  language  cannot 
be  understood.  This  is  the  way  they  speak :  *  a  hi-ka' 
pa-la'le,  hi-ka' pa-la' le,  hi-o-lu-ai',  o'a-la'ki,  wa-la'  wa-la'ki, 
po'ha.' " 

The  smoke  and  fire  came  from  pipes,  which  had 
never  before  been  seen  by  the  natives,  and  the  holes  in 
their  bodies  were  the  pockets  in  their  trousers. 

Before  Captain  Cook  left,  he  named  the  country  Sand- 
wich Islands,  after  an  English  nobleman,  Lord  Sand- 
wich ;  but  the  natives  have  always  preferred  the  old 
name  "  Hawaii,"  and  by  that  name  they  still  call  their 
country. 

About  a  year  later,  Captain  Cook  again  visited  Ha- 
waii and,  for  a  time,  was  regarded  with  even  greater 
awe  than  before.  At  one  place  the  beautiful  feather 
mantle  of  the  king  was  thrown  over  his  shoulders, 
which  was  the  greatest  compliment  that  could  be  paid 
him.  The  mantle  was  made  of  tiny  yellow  feathers, 
fastened  to  a  sort  of  net  made  of  hemp,  and  the  surface 
was  as  smooth  as  the  breast  of  a  bird.  It  took  thou- 
sands of  feathers  to  make  a  single  cloak,  and  these 
cloaks  were  so  costly  that  none  but  the  kings  could 
afford  to  wear  them. 

The  birds  from  which  the  yellow  feathers  were  ob- 
tained were  not  easy  to  catch.  They  lived  on  honey, 
and  had  long,  curved  bills.  They  had  only  two  or 
three  yellow  feathers  under  each  wing.  The  rest  of 
the  plumage  was  black,  changing  to  greenish  gold,  like 
the  feathers  of  the  blackbird.  The  birds  were  not 
killed,  but  were  caught  by  smearing  the  boughs  of  the 


[OO 


trees  on  which  they  alighted  with  a  sticky  gum,  which 
held  them  fast. 

Then  the  yellow  feathers  were  pulled  out  and  the 
birds  were  set -free,  that  the  feathers  might  grow  again. 
The  people  were  required  to  bring  -the  king  one  or  more 


Feather  Mantle 


of  the  yellow  feathers  each  year,  and  it  was  from  these 
that  the  splendid  mantles  were  made.  They  were  also 
used  for  helmets,  for  short  capes,  and  for  necklaces ; 
but  none  of  these  were  so  beautiful  or  so  costly  as  the 
mantles.  Only  men  of  the  highest  rank  could  wear  the 
helmets  and  capes. 

Although  the   English    sailors  shared  with   Captain 


lOI  -    ;      ',  ',,  ;   \iJ  ;• 

Cook  the  hospitality  of  the  natives,  they  were  very  un- 
grateful. They  broke  the  laws,  and  laughed  at  the 
most  sacred  customs  of  the  Hawaiians,  and  soon  the 
natives  began  to  tire  of  their  guests.  Just  then  one  of 
the  English  seamen  died  and  was  buried,  and  this  proved 
that  the  English- 
men were  not 
gods  after  all,  for 
the  gods  could  not 
die. 

Quarrels  between  the 
English  and  the  natives 
grew  more   frequent 
every    day,   and    when 
Captain    Cook   and  his 
party   finally   sailed    away, 
the    Hawaiians   were   very 
glad  to  see  them  go.     But 
an  accident  at  sea  compelled  them 
to  come  back,  and  this  time  they 
received  a  cold  welcome.  P^^^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

When  they  landed,  the  people 
ran    away  and   hid,' and  they  removed   their  boats  to 
places  safe  from  the  English. 

Quarrels  now  grew  worse  and  worse.  The  natives 
were  accused  by  the  sailors  of  stealing,  and  in  a  scuffle 
one  of  their  chiefs  was  thrown  to  the  ground.  In  re- 
venge, his  friends,  the  following  night,  stole  one  of  the 
boats  belonging  to  the  Discovery  and  broke  it  to  pieces 
in  order  to  secure  the  iron  nails.  When  the  captain 
heard  of  this  theft,  he  determined  to  get  the  king  on 


102 

board  and  keep  him  there  a  prisoner  until  the  Hawai- 
ians  should  restore  the  boat,  for  he  did  not  know  that  it 
had  been  destroyed.  While  Captain  Cook  went  ashore 
to  invite  the  king  to  come  on  board,  three  boats,  filled 
with  armed  men,  waited  in  the  bay,  to  keep  away  all 
ships  from  the  other  islands.  The  sailors  were  told 
that  no  Hawaiian  boats  must  be  allowed  to  pass  to  reach 
the  king. 

Two  chiefs,  who  did  not  know  of  this  order,  were 
rowing  toward  the  shore  when  the  English  sailors  fired 
on  them,  and  one  of  them  was  killed.  The  other  has- 
tened to  the  shore  and  told  the  king  what  had  hap- 
pened. A  great  crowd  at  once  gathered  around  the 
king  to  protect  him  with  their  spears  and  knives  from 
Captain  Cook  and  his  companions.  In  the  fight  which 
followed,  the  sailors  in  the  boats  fired  upon  the  Ha- 
waiians.  This  made  the  natives  so  angry  that  one  of 
them  stabbed  Captain  Cook  in  the  back,  and  he  fell 
down  dead.  Several  of  the  men  who  had  gone  ashore 
with  him  were  also  killed.  The  others  were  saved  only 
by  swimming  to  their  boats. 

An  officer  on  the  Resolution  saw  through  his  glass  the 
danger  of  the  Englishmen,  and  fifed  with  his  cannon 
upon  the  natives,  who  were  so  frightened  by  the  flash 
of  light  and  the  loud  noise  like  thunder,  that  they  ran 
away  and  hid  themselves  in  the  mountains.  By  that 
time  seventeen  Hawaiians  had  been  killed,  five  of  them 
being  chiefs  of  the  highest  rank. 

Captain  Cook's  body  was  carried  by  priests  into  one 
of  the  sacred  houses,  high  up  on  a  steep  cHff.  The 
bones  were  carefully  scraped  of  the  flesh,  tied  up  with 


I03 

red  feathers,  as  in  the  case  of  kings  and  chiefs,  and 
then  secretly  buried.  Many  bundles  of  bones  pre- 
pared in  this  way  have  been  found  in  caves  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  Islands. 

After  Captain  Cook  was  killed,  the  English  set  fire 
to  one  of  the  villages,  and  burned  up  the  sacred  houses. 


Captain  Cook's  Monument 

A  part  of  Captain  Cook's  bones  were  given  up  to  the 
English  officers  who  commanded  the  Resolution  and 
the  Discovery^  and  they  were  buried  at  sea. 

It  was  many  years  after  Captain  Cook's  death  before 
any  other  English  ship  visited  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 


XV.  KAUAI  AND  THE  KOULA  FALLS 


WHEN  Alice  returned  to  Honolulu  she  rested 
there  a  few  days  and  was  then  ready  to  start 
on  the  trip  to  Kauai  which  is  called  "The  Garden 
Island."     Kauai,  the  most  northern  of  the  Hawaiian 


I04 

Islands,  is  almost  circular  in  shape.  It  has  but  one 
high  mountain,  Wai-a-le-a'le.  A  great  part  of  the  is- 
land is  covered  with  swamps  and  with  rich  fields  of 
sugar  cane. 

The  trees  found  in  greatest  abundance  are  the  o-ki'a^ 
the  kou,  the  koa,  and  the  ugly  screw  palm  —  a  tree  that 
seems  to  stand  upon  its  uncovered  roots,  which  grow 
from  the  trunk,  several  feet  in  length  and  bury  them- 
selves in  the  earth.  The  gray-green  leaves  are  slender, 
and  the  edges  are  toothed  like  the  edge  of  a  saw. 

The  mountains  of  Kauai,  while  they  are  not  so  high 
as  those  of  Maui  and  Hawaii,  have  been  forced  up  in 
the  same  way,  and  there  are  great  numbers  of  empty 
craters.  Between  the  mountains  are  deep,  fertile  val- 
leys. There  are  no  large  towns  on  Kauai;  only  small 
villages,  in  which  there  are  no  hotels. 

The  Hawaiians  on  Kauai  were  among  the  last  to 
become  civilized.  They  did  not  like  to  wear  clothing, 
such  as  white  men  wear ;  and  they  preferred  their  own 
religion,  and  their  own  doctors,  or  sorcerers. 

Kauai  is  famous  for  its  horses  which  were  introduced 
from  America,  and  most  of  the  natives  are  fearless 
riders.  One  feat  of  which  they  are  very  proud  is,  while 
riding  at  a  gallop,  to  lean  down  to  pick  up  a  small  coin 
from  the  ground. 

As  the  island  of  Kauai  is  somewhat  out  of  the  way, 
it  is  not  often  visited  by  travelers.  The  volcano  of 
Kilauea,  and  the  level  tropical  forests  attract  them  to 
the  island  of  Hawaii ;  and  the  great  crater  of  Haleakala 
draws  them  to  Maui.  But  in  Kauai  there  is  not  much 
of  interest. 


105 

Before  the  steamship  line  was  opened  the  journey 
was  made  in  sailing  vessels.  It  can  now  be  made  in 
less  than  twenty-four  hours  from  Honolulu,  but  for- 
merly it  took  ten  days,  or  longer.  This  was  because  the 
wind  blew  the  ships  away  from,  instead  of  toward, 
Kauai. 

The  trade  winds  were  not  blowing  when  the  Earles 
first  arrived  in  Honolulu,  and  they  had  only  the  ordi- 
nary breezes  and  the  hot  south  winds,  which  the  natives 
call  the  Kona  winds. 

While  they  were  in  Kauai,  the  latter  part  of  March, 
the  trades  began  to  blow.  They  began  very  suddenly 
with  a  rushing,  roaring  sound,  bending  and  twisting 
the  palms,  and  rustling  the  leaves  of  the  mango  and 
umbrella  trees.  Clouds  of  dust  filled  the  air  along  the 
traveled  roads,  and  there  was  no  lull,  day  or  night,  for 
nearly  a  week. 

Every  one  who  could  do  so  stayed  indoors  ;  for  it  was 
hard  even  to  walk  in  such  a  gale.  The  wind  was  not 
cold,  but  fresh  and  invigorating,  for  it  had  blown  over 
long  stretches  of  cool  ocean.  When  it  became  calmer, 
it  was  as  if  there  had  been  a  great  storm,  although  very 
little  rain  had  fallen.  All  the  dead  boughs  had  been 
torn  from  the  trees,  and  the  dead  leaves  and  grass  had 
been  blown  away.  It  is  in  this  way  that  the  trees  are 
stripped  of  their  dead  leaves. 

It  was  while  they  were  in  Kauai  that  Alice  first  saw 
the  Hawaiians  making  aJwa.  This  is  a  drink  of  which 
they  are  fond,  but  which  is  very  harmful  to  them.  It 
is  made  from  the  root  of  the  awa,  a  plant  found  in  the 
forest.     The  root  is  thoroughly  chewed  by  two  or  three 


io6 

people  with  strong  teeth.  Then  it  is  put  into  a  cala- 
bash, water  is  poured  over  it,  and  it  is  mixed  and  kneaded 
like  dough.  After  this  more  water  is  added,  and  it  is 
again  mixed  and  strained.  Before  it  is  ready  for  use 
it  looks  like  frothy  soapsuds.  It  has  a  soothing  effect, 
making  those  who  drink  it  fall  into  a  deep  sleep  and 
dream  pleasant  dreams ;  but  it  causes  feebleness  and 
disease. 

Formerly  only  chiefs  and  priests  were  allowed  to 
drink  awa.  It  has  a  burning,  biting  taste,  somewhat 
like  horse-radish.  When  a  man  once  begins  to  drink 
awa  or  ka^va  as  it  is  also  called,  it  is  very  hard  for  him 
to  give  up  the  habit.  After  a  time  the  eyes  of  an  awa 
drinker  are  sure  to  grow  very  red,  and  the  skin  becomes 
thick  and  scaly. 

There  were  goats  and  deer  in  the  forests,  and  on  the 
mountain  slopes  of  Kauai.  Like  the  horses,  they  had 
been  brought  to  Kauai  by  white  men,  and  as  they  were 
seldom  hunted  and  killed,  they  had  multipHed  very 
quickly. 

While  they  were  in  Kauai  Alice  visited  the  beautiful 
Falls  of  the  Han-a-pe'pe,  which  is  the  largest  river  in  that 
island.  It  is  a  very  rough  ride,  and  Mr.  Earle  at  first 
thought  that  Alice  ought  not  to  attempt  it ;  but  she 
begged  so  hard,  that  he  decided  to  let  her  go.  She  had 
become  a  very  expert  rider  by  this  time,  for  in  Hawaii 
every  one  rides  on  horseback.  People  make  nearly  all 
their  long  journeys  in  this  way,  where  they  cannot  go  in 
boats,  for  there  are  very  few  roads  except  the  narrow 
paths,  called  trails.  The  horses  are  sure-footed  and  pick 
their  way  along  very  carefully  among  the  rocks. 


I07 

The  children  at  the  house  where  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Earle 
were  staying  could  catch  and  saddle  the  horses  as  easily 
and  quickly  as  could  the  men,  although  they  were  no 
older  than  Alice.  Alice  learned  the  art  from  them, 
and  was  very  proud  of  her  skill. 

The  ride  to  the  falls  tested  her  courage,  for  they  often 
had  to  ford  the  rapid  river,  and  the  noise  of  the  water 


Valley  of  Hanapepe  River 

made  her  dizzy.  Still,  she  held  firmly  to  her  saddle,  and 
went  bravely  on. 

Much  of  the  time  they  rode  through  the  soft  grass, 
without  a  trail  to  guide  them.  The  forests  through 
which  they  passed  were  full  of  beautiful  song  birds. 

The  Hanapepe  River,  at  the  place  where  they  first 
forded  it,  flows  between  two  walls  two  thousand  feet 
high  and  almost  perpendicular. 

The  Ko-u'la  Falls  are  at  the  head  of  a  gorge  that  widens 


io8 


into  a  valley,  through  which  the  river  makes  its  way  to 
the  sea.  Cold  streams,  clear  as  crystal,  trickle  and  leap 
down  the  canon  walls,  which  are  covered  with  ferns, 
mosses,  and  other  plants  that  love  the  cool,  damp  shade. 
The  gorge  is  four  miles  long,  and  the  river  drops  in  a 
broad,  silvery  sheet  over  a  ledge  more  than  three  hun- 
dred feet  high. 


Koula  Falls 


The  water  comes  down  from  its  great  height  with 
a  deafening  roar,  filling  the  gorge  with  spray,  like  fine 
rain.  The  sun  shines  into  the  gorge  only  at  noon,  when 
it  is  overhead ;  at  all  other  times  it  is  in  deep  shadow. 
All  about  it,  the  rocky  ledges  are  thickly  overgrown  with 
the  ohia,  the  candle  nut,  the  banana,  and  the  Eugenia, 
which  has  vivid  scarlet  blossoms. 

The  ride  had  been  long  and  rough,  and  they  were  all 
glad  to  rest  and  admire  the  beauty  of  the  rushing  water 


IC9 

and  the  tangled  greenery  that  clothed  the  rocks  which 
hemmed  it  in. 

After  luncheon  they  set  out  to  retrace  the  difficult  path 
by  which  they  had  come.  It  was  nearly  dark  when  they 
reached  their  friend's  house,  for  the  twihght  in  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  is  very  short,  and  the  night  comes 
quickly  when  the  sun  has  set.  Alice  was  stiff  and  tired 
when  her  father  lifted  her  off  her  horse,  but  she  knew 
that  a  night's  rest  would  refresh  her,  and  felt  that  the 
beauties  of  the  falls  had  more  than  repaid  her  for  a 
little  weariness. 


>NKc 


XVI.    AN    INTERESTING   SCOTCH    FAMILY 

AT  Kauai  Alice  met  a  number  of  Scotch  people,  who, 
as  she  soon  discovered,  all  belonged  to  the  same 
family,  and  they  had  an  interesting  story  to  tell.  A 
Scotchman  and  his  wife, —  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sinclair — with 
their  children  and  grandchildren,  had  come  from  Scot- 
land to  settle  in  New  Zealand.  Soon  after  their  arri- 
val Mr.  Sinclair  had  been  drowned,  and  after  that  his 
wife,  becoming  dissatisfied  with  New  Zealand,  decided 
to  look  elsewhere  for  a  home.  So  she  fitted  up  her  ship 
with  every  possible  convenience,  and  prepared  to  sail 
about  until  she  should  find  a  home  large  enough  for 
herself  and  her  growing  family. 

At  last  they  landed  at  Hawaii,  and  the  king,  seeing 
at  once  that  it  would  be  an  advantage  to  have  such 


no 

excellent  people  to  settle  among  his  subjects,  offered 
them  the  whole  of  the  island  of  Niihau  for  a  very  small 
sum  of  money.  Mrs.  Sinclair  accepted  the  offer  and 
at  once  began  to  settle  down  in  her  new  home.  Before 
long  their  house  was  built,  and  the  sheep  and  cattle 
which  they  had  brought  with  them  from  New  Zealand 
were , peacefully  grazing  in  the  pastures. 

After  a  while  Mrs.  Sinclair  decided  to  move  to  Kauai, 
leaving  her  son  and  his  wife  to  take  care  of  the  flocks 
and  herds  on  Niihau.  At  Kauai  a  new  house  was  built 
on  a  fiat  mountain  top,  where  it  was  cool  and  pleasant. 
The  house  was  very  large,  with  verandas  all  around  it. 
Roses  and  passion  flowers  climbed  to  the  roof.  The 
broad  lawns  were  planted  with  palms  and  orange  trees, 
and  many  beautiful  flowering  shrubs. 

Here  the  mother  and  the  children  lived  happily  and 
peacefully  together.  The  daughters  taught  the  young 
Hawaiian  girls  how  to  cook  and  sew  and  keep  house. 
They  also  taught  them  to  read  and  write,  which  most, 
of  them  learned  very  quickly.  There  were  often  as 
many  as  ten  of  these  young  Hawaiian  girls  living  with 
the  family  at  one  time.  They  were  clothed  and  fed  and 
taught  without  charge,  by  their  kind  Scotch  friends ; 
but  many  of  them  insisted  on  paying  for  their  favors 
by  working  one  day  in  the  month  for  their  teachers. 

While  the  sisters  were. busy  in  the  house,  the  brothers 
were  at  work  in  the  fields.  They  raised  crops  of  various 
kinds,  and  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses.  They  were  good 
friends  to  the  Hawaiians,  who  loved  and  respected 
them. 

They  were  happy  among  themselves,  and  though  they 


lived  so  far  away  from  other  white  people  they  were 
never  dull  or  lonely.  Whenever  ships  went  back  to 
Scotland  and  the  United  States,  they  sent  for  books 
and  magazines  and  newspapers,  so  that  they  always 
knew  what  was  going  on  in  the  world. 

Teachers  came  to  live  with  the  family,  and  taught 
them  everything  they  wished  to  learn.  They  learned 
how  to  speak  French  and  German,  and  they  became 
good  musicians.  So,  with  their  books,  their  music,  and 
their  work  among  the  Hawaiians,  their  labors  in  the 
garden,  and  their  exercise  on  horseback,  time  passed 
pleasantly,  and  they  would  not  have  changed  their 
Hawaiian  home  for  any  other  in  the  world. 

Mrs.  Sinclair  once  went  back  to  visit  her  relatives  in 
Scotland,  but  she  was  glad  to  return  to  Kauai.  She 
said  it  made  her  sad  to  see  so  many  people  who  had 
not  enough  to  eat,  and  scarcely  enough  clothes  to  keep 
them  warm.  In  Kauai  there  was  enough,  and  more 
than  enough,  for  all ;  and  no  one  was  ever  hungry  or 
knew  what  it  was  to  suffer  want.  The  good  Scotch 
woman  lived  to  be  very  old.  She  died  and  was  buried 
on  the  land  where  she  lived  so  long  with  her  family ; 
and  her  children  and  grandchildren  are  living  there  to 
this  day. 

XVII.    THE   MARKET 

ONE  of  the  most  interesting  places  that  Alice  vis- 
ited while  she  was  in  Honolulu  was  the  fish  mar- 
ket.    On  a  Saturday  afternoon,  which  was  the  best  time 


112 

to  go,  she  went  with  her  father  and  mother,  not  only 
to  see  the  strange  things  that  were  bought  and  sold, 
but  also  to  watch  the  people.  The  market  was  their 
great  place  of  meeting,  and  they  gathered  there  from 
far  and  near. 

Both  men  and  women  were  dressed  in  their  best 
clothes.  The  poorer  men  wore  suits  of  white  or  blue 
cotton,  with  straw  hats  bound  with  wreaths  of  yellow 
flowers,  and  yellow  garlands  around  their  necks.  The 
richer  men  were  dressed  in  pure  white  duck,  and, 
instead  of  flowers,  their  leis  were  of  peacock  feathers. 
These  are  very  costly,  and  none  but  the  well-to-do 
Hawaiians  can  afford  to  wear  them.  The  women  were 
in  holokus  of  white,  blue,  pink,  and  green,  and  they,  too, 
wore  a  great  many  leis. 

Many  of  the  people  from  the  plantations  had  come 
to  market  on  horseback.  The  horses  were  tied  to 
racks  near  by.  They  were  poor,  half-starved  creatures, 
for  the  Hawaiians  are  not  very  kind  to  animals,  except 
to  their  pet  dogs  and  pigs.  They  ride  their  horses  at  a 
gallop,  no  matter  how  lame  and  sick  they  may  be,  and 
they  never  curry  or  feed  them  well.  If  any  one  should 
tell  them  how  cruel  such  treatment  is,  they  would  only 
laugh  and  say  that  it  is  silly  to  care  so  much  about  a 
horse,  which  does  not  cost  much  and  could  be  easily  re- 
placed if  it  should  die.  The  market  house  was  a  wooden 
building,  rather  gray  and  weather-beaten.  It  was  open 
on  every  side,  with  only  the  roof  as  a  shelter  from  the 
rain.  There  were  tables  piled  with  fish,  seaweed,  and 
a  kind  of  fresh-water  weed  of  which  the  Hawaiians  eat 
a  great  deal.     The  weeds  were  rolled  into  balls. 


113 

Between  the  tables  were  narrow  aisles,  and  these 
were  crowded  with  people,  bargaining  and  buying  and 
selling,  laughing  and  chattering. 

Alice  had  never  seen  so  great  a  crowd  at  a  market ; 
there  were  at  least  two  thousand  people  moving  about 
or  stopping  at  the  counters,  whenever  they  caught 
sight  of  anything  they  especially  wanted. 

There  are  not  many  birds,  except  mynahs,  doves,  and 


Honolulu  Fish  Market 


sparrows,  in  the  groves  around  Honolulu,  and  these  are 
all  of  a  very  sober  color ;  but  the  fish  seem  to  make 
up  in  their  brilliant  hues  what  the  birds  lack.  Some  are 
of  a  very  elegant  form,  and  others  are  hideous  and  re- 
pulsive. Alice  could  scarcely  bear  to  look  at  the  ugly 
squid,  which  is  not  a  fish,  although  it  swims  about  in  the 
water.  The  body  is  like  a  wrinkled  seamy  bag,  with 
two  dull  eyes,  and  out  of  this  bag  extend  long,  writhing, 
twining  arms  that  catch  and  hold  whatever  comes  within 

KROUT's   HAWAII  —  8 


.     114 

their  reach.  Some  of  the  squids  are  several  feet  in 
length.  As  they  lay  upon  the  table  in  the  market,  the 
long  arms  or  tentacles  were  twisted  and  knotted  together 
in  a  tangled  heap.  The  squid  is  of  many  bright  colors, 
which  deepen  and  fade  and  glow  again  while  it  is 
dying. 

Mr.  Earle  told  Alice  that  the  Hawaiians  thought  the 
squid  a  great  delicacy,  and  ate  it  raw  with  their  poi. 

One  very  large  fish  that  AUce  saw  was  of  a  pale  rose 
color,  and  she  could  imagine  how  beautiful  it  must 
look,  swimming  among  the  coral,  far  down  in  the 
depths  of  the  clear  water.  There  was  another  of  dark 
blue,  with  deep  scarlet  figures  along  its  sides,  like  some 
sort  of  strange  lettering,  in  which  its  name  might  have 
been  written.  Another,  which  her  father  told  her  was 
the  sea  cock,  or  ki'hi-ki'hi  was  striped  with  bands  of 
brilliant  yellow  and  black.  Others  were  dotted  and 
mottled,  and  were  of  pink,  brown,  green,  and  blue. 

Beside  the  fish,  there  were  limpets  and  oysters, 
which  were  found  among  the  coral ;  sea  urchins,  covered 
with  purple  spines,  and  the  ti'lUf  a  great  lobster  without 
claws. 

In  addition  to  the  live  fish  in  the  market  there  were 
also  baked  and  dried  fish,  which  were  sold  tied  up  in 
ti  leaves, 

Alice  saw  many  Hawaiians  eating  raw  fish,  which 
some  of  them  prefer  to  cooked  fish.  In  former  days 
even  the  priests  and  kings  ate  raw  fish,  and  a  good 
many  Hawaiians  still  follow  this  custom. 

The  market  is  not  only  a  place  where  fish  are  bought 
and  sold,  but  a  place  for  the  discussion  of  topics  of  gen- 


115 

eral  interest.  Speeches  are  frequently  made  by  Hawai- 
ian orators.  Many  of  them  speak  with  energy  and 
feeling,  and  can  persuade  those  who  listen  to  them  to  do 
almost  anything  they  advise.  Sometimes  the  speeches 
are  by  ministers,  for  the  Hawaiians  are  always  ready  to 
listen  to  a  good  sermon,  although  they  do  not  always 
practice  what  they  applaud  and  seem  to  approve. 

At  other  times,  the  speeches  are  political,  that  is, 
about  the  government.  The  speeches  are  always  in 
Hawaiian,  and  so  when  Ahce  and  her  father  stopped  a 
moment  to  listen,  they  could  not  understand  what  was 
said ;  but  it  amused  them  to  watch  the  audience,  who 
seemed  to  be  very  much  pleased  and  excited.  They 
clapped  their  hands  and  cried  out  in  Hawaiian,  to  show 
that  they  agreed  with  what  the  speaker  was  saying. 

It  was  altogether  the  strangest  market  place  that 
Alice  had  ever  seen,  with  the  throngs  of  people  coming 
and  going,  the  piles  of  colored  fish,  the  garlands  of 
flowers,  and  in  the  midst  of  all  the  orator  and  his 
audience. 


>J«ic 


XVni.    SANDALWOOD 

WHILE  they  were  in  Honolulu  Mr.  Earle  told 
Alice  a  great  many  stories  about  the  Hawaiians, 
and  what  had  been  done  to  make  their  country  rich 
and  prosperous.  Among  other  things  he  told  her  of 
the  time  when  sandalwood  had  been  used  for  money. 


ii6 

Almost  every  country  has  its  own  kind  of  money. 
Among  civilized  people  it  consists  of  copper,  nickel, 
silver,  or  gold  coin,  and  of  paper  notes  which  stand 
for  gold  and  silver,  for  which  the  paper  can  be  ex- 
changed at  any  time.  This  money,  except  that  the 
coins  are  made  of  the  same  kind  of  metal,  is  not  alike 
in  any  two  countries.  Even  the  paper  notes  in  one 
country  differ  from  those  in  another. 

Uncivilized  people  use,  instead  of  money,  whatever 
articles  they  value  most.  The  Indians  in  North  Amer- 
ica formerly  used  strings  of  shells,  called  wampum ;  and 
the  people  in  Africa  buy  and  sell  with  beads,  wire,  and 
colored  cloth. 

The  Hawaiians  in  the  old  days  traded  with  sandal- 
wood —  a  very  fragrant  wood  from  a  small  tree  which 
grew  everywhere  in  the  Islands. 

Most  of  the  sandalwood  was  taken  to  China  and 
sold  there  to  the  Chinese,  who  carved  and  fashioned  it 
into  a  great  variety  of  beautiful  things,  —  costly  fans, 
boxes,  cabinets,  stools,  and  chairs. 

But  the  English  and  American  traders  often  did  not 
deal  fairly  with  the  Hawaiians,  and  made  them  give  too 
much  sandalwood  in  exchange  for  their  goods.  They 
gave  the  Hawaiians  only  eight  or  ten  dollars  for  one 
hundred  and  thirty-three  pounds  of  sandalwood,  which 
was  sold  in  China  for  ten  times  as  much. 

In  spite  of,  the  dishonesty  of  the  white  men,  the 
Hawaiian  kings  and  chiefs  grew  rich  from  the  sale  of 
sandalwood ;  for  all  the  land  and  all  that  grew  thereon 
belonged  to  them,  and  the  Islands  at  one  time  were 
covered   with    sandalwood   trees.      In   return   for  the 


117 

wood,  the  traders  gave  the  chiefs  all  sorts  of  fine  Chi- 
nese silks,  guns,  powder  and  shot,  and  even  large  boats 
and  schooners,  in  which  they  could  sail  long  distances 
from  one  island  to  another. 

It  took  a  great  deal  of  sandalwood  to  carry  on  this 
trade,  and  now  there  are  but  few  of  these  trees  left 
in  the  Islands.  Violent  quarrels,  in  which  men  were 
wounded  and  killed,  grew  out  of  the  trade,  and  many 
other  evils  were  traced  to  it. 

The  Hawaiians  who  were  sent  to  collect  the  wood 
were  forced  to  leave  their  work,  and  the  crops  were 
neglected.  There  was  no  one  to  plant  taro,  or  gather 
bananas,  or  catch  fish,  and  food  became  so  scarce  that 
at  length  there  came  a  famine,  and  a  great  many  per- 
sons starved  to  death. 

Kamehameha  the  Great  was  at  this  time  king  of 
the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  he  was  greatly  beloved. 
Before  his  time  each  island  had  its  own  chief,  but 
he  conquered  them  all,  and  ruled  over  the  whole 
group  from  1795  to  18 19.  The  four  Kamehamehas 
who  ruled  after  him,  from  18 19  to  1872,  had  many 
noble  qualities,  but  they  were  fond  of  ease  and  in- 
temperate. 

When  Kamehameha  the  Great  saw  his  people  starv- 
ing because  food  was  so  scarce,  he  would  not  let  the 
men  collect  any  more  of  the  wood,  but  sent  them,  as 
well  as  the  soldiers,  back  to  their  homes  to  take  care  of 
their  crops.  To  encourage  them,  he  himself  dug  and 
planted  taro  in  the  fields,  and  for  many  years  the  piece 
of  ground  in  which  he  worked  was  kept  sacred,  and  it 
can  still  be  pointed  out. 


ii8 

XIX.    INSECTS 

ONE  day  Alice  went  with  her  mother  and  father  to 
dine  with  some  friends  at  Waikiki,  and  as  she  was 
leaving,  her  hostess  handed  her  a  small  grass  basket 
filled  with  salted  almonds. 

When  she  went  to  her  room  she  set  the  basket  on  the 
window  sill,  behind  the  door,  and  did  not  think  of  it 
again  for  several  days.  When  she  went  to  get  it  the 
almonds  seemed  to  be  covered  with  a  thick,  brown,  vel- 
vety cloth.  She  looked  at  it  a  little  closer  and  saw  that 
it  was  not  cloth,  but  hundreds  of  ants.  They  had  found 
the  oily  almonds  and  were  having  a  feast.  She  had 
seen  a  good  many  ants  running  about,  but  she  had  never 
seen  them  collect  in  such  great  numbers. 

Mr.  Earle  told  her  that  the  ants  are  a  great  pest,  and 
that  they  sometimes  undermine  houses,  and  damage  the 
shingles  so  that  people  are  forced  to  use  for  their  roofs 
slate  or  iron,  into  which  the  ants  cannot  bore.  The  ants 
in  Hawaii  are  not  as  mischievous  as  the  ants  in  Africa 
that  march  across  the  country  in  millions,  eating  every- 
thing in  their  way,  and  driving  the  people  from  their 
houses.  They  do  not,  like  the  ants  in  Australia  and 
Africa,  build  great  houses,  shaped  like  sugar  loaves ;  but 
they  dig  and  burrow,  destroying  the  roots  of  plants  and 
trees. 

While  she  was  at  Waikiki,  Alice  noticed  a  little 
heap  of  dust  under  the  door  leading  into  the  drawing- 
room.  It  was  dust  that  had  been  made  by  the  car- 
penter bee,  which  bores  into  wood,  ruining  not  only 
doors  and  windows,  but  chairs  and  tables,  and  all  kinds 


119 

of  furniture.  It  does  not  hurt  the  outside,  but  it  bur- 
rows into  the  wood,  where  it  cannot  be  seen,  and  hollows 
it  out  until  it  is  little  more  than  a  thin  shell. 

Fortunately,  the  carpenter  bee  does  not  often  come 
into  the  house.  It  has  not  always  lived  in  the  Hawaiian 
Islands,  but,  like  many  other  insects,  has  been  brought 
there  from  abroad.  It  looks  very  much  like  the  bumble- 
bee, except  that  it  is  a  dark  steel-blue,  almost  black ; 
and  it  darts  about  very  quickly.  It  does  not  often  sting, 
but  causes  a  great  deal  of  damage.  It  was  brought  to 
the  Islands,  first,  in  lumber  that  had  been  sent  in  ships 
from  Oregon  for  building  houses. 

At  another  time  Alice  saw  running  across  the  floor  in 
her  bedroom  a  hairy  spider,  with  spreading  legs  that 
were  fully  three  inches  long.  It  crept  into  a  hole  and 
hid;  but  she  would  not  have  killed  it,  even  if  it  had 
not  run  away,  for  she  knew  that  it  was  perfectly  harm- 
less. It  was  far  more  frightened  at  the  sight  of  her, 
than  she  was  by  it. 

There  were  centipedes  also,  —  long,  ugly  insects,  with 
a  great  many  short  legs,  though  not  so  many  as  a  hun- 
dred, as  the  name  suggests. 

The  sting  of  the  centipede  is  in  the  end  of  the  tail. 
People  are  not  often  stung  by  centipedes,  and  the  few 
who  are  stung  usually  recover.  Stories  to  the  contrary 
are  not  true. 

There  were  mosquitoes  by  the  thousands.  They  came 
in  great  clouds  on  warm,  still  evenings,  and  they  stung 
Alice's  hands  and  face  until  they  were  covered  with  little 
scarlet  spots.  The  people  who  live  in  Honolulu  become 
used  to  them,  and  are  not  much  annoyed  by  them. 


I20 

All  the  beds  are  hung  with  long  curtains  of  net,  without 
which  no  one  could  sleep.  The  first  mosquito  was 
brought  to  Hawaii  in  the  water  casks  of  an  English 
ship,  the  Wellington,  that  had  sailed  to  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  from  Mexico.  Mosquitoes  cannot  fly  in  a 
strong  wind,  and  are  not  so  troublesome  when  the 
trade  winds  are  blowing,  nor  are  they  so  active  in  the 
high  lands,  where  it  is  cooler.  There  are  not  so  many  at 
Hilo  as  at  Honolulu,  where  they  are  attracted  by  the 
wet  rice  fields  and  the  Chinese  gardens  with  their  canals, 
in  which  the  eggs  of  the  mosquitoes  are  hatched. 

The  people  in  Honolulu  use  Persian  insect  powder, 
which  numbs  the  mosquitoes.  They  fall  to  the  ground, 
and  are  then  swept  up  and  destroyed.  When  the 
people  sit  upon  their  verandas  they  switch  the  mos- 
quitoes with  a  queer  little  switch  made  of  long  strands 
of  horsehair,  with  a  short  handle  of  bone.  These 
switches  are  brought  from  China,  where  they  are  used 
for  the  same  purpose. 

Birds  of  several  kinds  and  frogs  have  been  brought 
to  Hawaii,  in  the  hope  that  they  might  prey  upon  the 
mosquitoes. 

One  of  the  missionaries  described  the  night  when  the 
mosquitoes  first  appeared  in  Honolulu.  They  came  in 
great  clouds.  The  Hawaiians  did  not  know  what  they 
were,  and  were  very  much  troubled  by  their  sharp  stings. 
No  one  could  sleep.  Half  the  night  the  missionary  sat 
up  fanning  his  wife  and  children  so  that  they  could 
rest,  and  they  then  fanned  him  and  drove  away  the  insects 
while  he  slept  until  morning.  They  did  this  until  they 
were  able  to  send  to  China  for  nets. 


121 


At  one  time,  all  the  roses  in  Honolulu  were  eaten  up 
by  a  tiny  black  beetle,  so  small  that  it  could  hardly  be 
seen.  It  came  in  plants  that  had  been  brought  from 
Japan.  It  ate  not  only  the  flowers  but  the  leaves  also, 
and  it  killed  the  bushes.  No  roses  could  be  raised, 
and  the  people  were  told  that  if  the  beetle  was  not  de- 
stroyed, it  would  eat  other  plants  and  shrubs  when  the 


..^^^ 


'-■W^.x 


mf^mmm. 


Rice  Fields 


rose  bushes  were  gone.  It  could  not  be  caught,  because 
it  came  out  only  at  night  when  it  was  dark,  and  hid  in 
the  ground  during  the  day.  Every  precaution  was 
taken  to  keep  the  pest  from  spreading,  no  plants  from 
Oahu  being  received  on  the  other  islands.  At  last 
means  were  found  for  killing  the  little  beetle,  so  that 
now  people  again  have  roses  blooming  in  their  gardens. 
After  the  trouble  with  the  rose  beetle  strict  laws  were 
passed  forbidding  any  one  to  bring  plants  ashore  until 


122 

they  had  been  kept  in  a  safe  place  for  a  time  long 
enough  to  make  certain  that  they  contained  no  insects 
dangerous  as  a  pest. 

XX.   CAPTAIN  VANCOUVER 

IN  the  year  1792,  thirteen  years  after  Captain  Cook 
had  visited  the  Islands,  another  EngHshman,  Captain 
George  Vancouver,  arrived  with  two  ships,  the  Discov- 
ery and  the  Chatham. 

He  was  a  good  man,  and  seeing  that  firearms  caused 
disorder  among  the  Hawaiians,  he  refused  to  sell  them. 
Instead,  he  gave  them  many  different  kinds  of  trees, 
plants,  and  vines,  and  the  seeds  of  foreign  vegetables, 

Vancouver  left  for  California,  but  returned  in  1793 
with  a  present  of  cattle  for  Kamehameha  I.,  whom  he 
then  met  for  the  first  time. 

The  king  went  to  visit  the  ship  in  great  state,  wear- 
ing his  feather  mantle  and  helmet,  and  accompanied  by 
a  fleet  of  eleven  canoes.  With  him  were  his  wife  and 
his  favorite  adviser  John  Young. 

John  Young  was  an  American  sailor  who  had  come 
to  the  Islands  three  years  before.  His  captain  had 
treated  the  natives  with  great  cruelty,  and  in  revenge 
all  the  sailors  found  on  shore  were  massacred,  except 
John  Young  and  Isaac  Davis,  who  were  detained  as 
prisoners,  until  the  American  vessel  left. 

They  were  then  kindly  treated  and  raised  to  the  rank 
of  chiefs,  but  were  forbidden  to  leave  the  Islands.  After 
a  while  they  became  so  attached  to  the  country  that  they 


123 

did  not  wish  to  leave,  and  they  Hved  in  the  Islands  for 
the  rest  of  their  lives. 

They  proved  themselves  worthy  of  the  king's  kind- 
ness, gave  him  good  advice,  and  taught  the  Hawaiians 
many  useful  arts. 

John  Young  spoke  to  Captain  Vancouver  and  told 
the  king  what  he  said  in  reply,  and  soon  they  were  all 
on  good  terms.  The  king  gave  Vancouver  many  valu- 
able presents.  Among  them  were  four  helmets  of 
costly  yellow  feathers ;  ninety  of  the  fattest  and  larg- 
est swine  that  could  be  found,  and  great  quantities  of 
bananas  and  mangoes  and  other  fruit.  In  return  Van- 
couver gave  the  king  five  cows  and  three  sheep  —  all 
the  animals  he  had  left. 

Vancouver  and  Kamehameha  became  great  friends. 
The  king  very  soon  found  that  Vancouver  did  not  want 
to  cheat  him,  or  take  the  country  from  him,  and  he 
entertained  him  in  every  way  to  please  and  amuse  him. 
He  had  a  sham  battle  between  the  best  of  his  warriors, 
and  he  made  them  show  the  Englishman  how  far  they 
were  able  to  throw  their  spears  and  the  stones  from 
their  slings. 

Vancouver  in  return  showed  the  king  over  his  ship, 
and,  in  the  evening,  he  gave  a  grand  display  of  fire- 
works. This  was  a  fine  sight,  and  the  king  was  delighted 
with  it. 

Vancouver  made  three  visits,  and  each  time  brought 
with  him  sheep,  goats,  and  cattle,  as  presents  to  the 
king.  The  last  time  he  came  his  seamen  helped  Kame- 
hameha build  the  first  ship  he  had  ever  owned.  Before 
this,  the  king  went  from  island  to  island  in  a  canoe. 


124 

It  was  finer  and  larger  than  the  ordinary  canoes,  but 
still  it  was  not  so  good  as  the  new  ship,  of  which  Kame- 
hameha  was  very  proud,  and  which  he  named  the  Bri- 
tannia, in  honor  of  Great  Britain,  the  country  from  which 
Captain  Vancouver  had  come. 

It  was  Vancouver  who  first  spoke  to  Kamehameha 
about  God,  and  he  also^  told  him  that  the  tabus  were 
foolish  and  cruel,  and  that  the  priests  taught  falsehoods 
which  did  the  Hawaiians  a  great  deal  of  harm.  Kame- 
hameha knew  that  Vancouver  was  a  good,  wise  man, 
and  all  this  made  a  deep  impression  upon  him. 

Vancouver  told  Kamehameha  that  when  he  went 
back  to  his  own  country  he  would  ask  the  EngHsh  king 
to  send  some  one  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands  to  teach  the 
Christian  religion.  Mr.  Ellis  was  the  man  chosen  for 
this  work,  but  by  the  time  he  arrived  King  Kameha- 
meha I.  was  dead. 

XXI.   THE   FIRST   MISSIONARIES 

WHILE  Alice  was  in  Honolulu  she  heard  much 
about  the  missionaries.  Nearly  all  the  schools 
have  been  founded  by  them,  and  they  have  done  much 
to  improve  the  laws  of  the  country. 

The  first  missionaries  were  from  New  England,  and 
this  is  how  it  came  about : 

At  a  very  early  date  ships  from  New  England  visited 
the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Their  crews  traded  with  the 
natives,  giving  them  furniture,  guns,  and  clothing,  in 
exchange  for  sandalwood.     Later  they  came  into  the 


125 

harbor  at  Honolulu  only  to  get  water  and  fresh  supplies 
of  food.  Then  they  went  on  their  voyage  to  the  colder 
regions  to  fish  for  whales. 

The  Hawaiians  from  the  first  were  eager  to  embark 
on  such  voyages,  and  they  proved  themselves  good 
sailors,  although  the  change  from  their  warm  climate 
to  that  of  the  cold  regions  they  visited  was  very  great. 
It  was  in  this  way  that  the  New  England  people  first 
learned  about  the  Hawaiians. 

Nearly  a  century  ago,  several  young  Hawaiians  were 
taken  to  the  United  States,  and  among  them  a  youth 
named  0-bo-o-ki'ah.  He  was  very  clever,  and  those 
who  met  him  became  interested  in  him,  and  begged 
him  to  stay  in  the  United  States  to  obtain  an  education 
and  then  to  return  to  the  Islands  to  teach  the  Hawai- 
ians. Obookiah  and  four  of  his  friends  remained. 
They  attended  a  school  in  Cornwall,  Connecticut,  and 
learned  very  rapidly.  Obookiah  himself,  however,  never 
returned  to  his  home.  He  died  before  he  had  finished 
his  studies. 

In  the  year  before  Obookiah  died,  a  number  of  Amer- 
icans sailed  for  the  Hawaiian  Islands  in  a  ship  called  the 
Thaddetis.  There  were  two  clergymen  with  their  wives, 
five  teachers,  and  three  of  the  Hawaiians,  who  had  been 
at  school  with  Obookiah.  Their  names  were  Ka-nu'i, 
Ho'pu,  and  Ho-no-li'i.  It  was  necessary  for  them  to 
accompany  the  Americans,  who  could  not  speak  or 
understand  the  language  of  the  Hawaiians. 

It  was  in  the  year  1819  that  these  men  —  the  first 
missionaries  —  sailed  from  Boston  to  Hawaii.  We  can 
realize  how  long  ago  this  was  when  we  remember  that 


126 

at  that  time  there  were  hardly  any  people  living  in  the 
great  Western  states.  Chicago  was  but  a  cluster  of  log 
houses.  There  were  no  railways,  no  telegraph  or  tele- 
phone. People  traveled  in  stagecoaches,  or  on  horse- 
back, and  where  there  are  now  towns  and  cities,  the 
Indians  hunted  and  made  their  camps.  It  was  many 
years  before  people  went  to  California,  across  the 
plains,  to  hunt  for  gold. 

There  were  no  steamships  then,  and  men  crossed  the 
ocean  in  saiHng  vessels.  In  those  days  it  took  many 
months  to  make  the  voyage  to  Hawaii.  The  vessel 
had  to  sail  down  the  eastern  coast  of  our  own  country 
and  South  America,  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan, 
and  across  the  Pacific. 

It  would  have  taken  a  great  while,  even  if  the  ship 
had  gone  straight  on  her  course,  but  this  rarely  hap- 
pened. Sometimes  the  wind  was  in  the  wrong  direc- 
tion, and  blew  the  ship  out  of  her  course;  sometimes 
it  died  entirely  away,  and  then  the  ship  stood  perfectly 
still  —  becalmed.  At  such  a  time  it  was  apt  to  be  very 
hot,  and  there  was  no  shelter  anywhere  except  in  the 
shadow  of  the  sails.  Often  there  were  terrible  storms 
—  especially  near  the  Straits  of  Magellan. 

The  ships  were  crowded  and  uncomfortable ;  and  the 
passengers  often  had  to  cook  their  own  food.  This 
made  the  voyage  very  hard  for  the  wives  of  the  mis- 
sionaries. 

The  Thaddeus  did  not  sail  to  Honolulu,  which  was 
then  only  a  village  of  grass  huts,  but  first  touched  at 
Ko-ha'la,  a  district  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  island 
of  Hawaii.     One  of  the  officers  went  ashore  and  came 


127 

back  with  the  news  that  the  great  Kamehameha  was  dead, 
and  that  his  son  had  been  made  king.  The  tabus  had 
been  broken,  and  the  people,  having  given  up  their  idols 
and  burned  the  temples,  were  without  a  religion.  There 
was  peace  everywhere. 

The  people  in  New  England  from  time  to  time  re- 
ceived news  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  from  the  returning 
sailors,  but  the  party  on  the  Thaddeus  now  learned  for 


Sailing  toward  Hawaii 

the  first  time  of  the  death  of  Kamehameha,  and  of  the 
burning  of  the  temples  and  idols.  The  last  fact  was 
good  news  for  the  missionaries,  for  it  was  sure  to  make 
much  easier  the  work  which  they  hoped  to  do.  They 
now  set  sail  for  Kai-lu'a,  a  village  in  Hawaii,  where  the 
new  king  lived. 

When  they  reached  Kailua  two  of  the  missionaries, 
Mr.  Bingham  and  Mr.  Thurston,  went  on  shore,  with 
Hopu  as  a  guide.  The  king,  Kamehameha  II.,  received 
them  kindly,  when  they  told  him  that  they  had  come  to 


128 


teach  the  people  a  new  religion,  and  that  they  hoped 
he  would  let  them  live  in  the  Islands.  He  did  not 
answer  them  at  once,  but  took  time  to  think  the  matter 
over.  He  accepted  an  invitation  to  go  on  board  the 
Thaddeus  to  dine  with  them  and  their  wives.  One  of 
the  chiefs  was  dressed  in  European  clothes  which  he 

had  obtained  from 
one  of  the  sailors, 
but  the  king  wore 
a  long  mantle  of 
green  silk,  a  neck- 
lace of  beads,  and 
a  wreath  of  yellow 
feathers  on  his 
head. 

When  the  king 
came  on  board 
the  Thaddeus  he 
brought  his  family 
with  him.  "This  he 
would  not  have 
done  if  he  had  not 
been  favorably  impressed  by  the  missionaries  and  felt 
sure  that  they  intended  no  harm. 

He  waited  a  week  before  giving  his  answer,  and  dur- 
ing that  time  he  consulted  with  John  Young.  Mr. 
Young  told  him  the  missionaries  had  come  only  to  do 
good,  so  the  king  told  them  they  might  live  in  the 
Islands  for  one  year.  Four  of  them,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Thurston  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Holman,  were  to  stay  at 
Kailua,  and  the  rest  were  to  go  to   Honolulu.     They 


Mr.  Bingham 


129 

were  given  a  small  grass  hut  to  live  in,  and  the  king 
treated  them  very  kindly. 


J>»4c 


XXII.      MORE    ABOUT    THE    MISSIONARIES 

THE  missionaries  who  went  to  Honolulu  did  not 
fare  so  well  as  those  who  staid  at  Kailua  with 
the  king.  The  king's  real 
name  was  Li-ho-li'ho,  but 
he  was  called  Kamehameha 
II.  He  succeeded  the  great 
Kamehameha,  but  only 
reigned  five  years.  Both 
he  and  his  wife,  Emma, 
died  of  measles  while  on 
a  visit  to  England.  The 
bodies  of  the  king  and 
queen  were  brought  back 
from  England  in  splendid 
coffins  covered  with  crimson 
velvet,  and  a  great  funeral 
was  held,  which  lasted  for 
several  weeks. 

The  governor  of  Oahu  at  that  time  was  a  chief  named 
Boki,  of  whom  we  shall  learn  more  in  another  story, 
and  neither  he  nor  his  wife  Liliha  wished  to  befriend 
the  Americans.  They  did  not  wish  to  change  their 
way  of  living,  and  would  have  liked  to  send  the  mis- 
sionaries away,  but  did  not  dare  to  do  so  against  the 

KROUT'S   HAWAII  —  9 


Kamehameha  II. 


130 

king's  command.  So  they  made  them  as  uncomfort- 
able as  they  could,  and  were  as  rude  as  they  dared 
to  be,  thinking  that  this  would  induce  the  missiona- 
ries to  leave. 

Honolulu  was  not  then  as  it  is  now.  In  place  of 
the  beautiful  gardens  and  parks  now  found  there,  and 
the  trees  and  plants  which  have  been  brought  from 
nearly  all  the  warm  countries  in  the  world,  there 
were  only  a  few  cocoanut  trees,  and  the  kou  and  the 
koa  and  the  kukui  in  the  cooler  lands  on  the  mountain 
slopes.  Around  Honolulu  there  were  dry,  bare  plains, 
where  the  dust  rose  in  clouds,  for  the  trade  winds  blew 
then,  just  as  they  do  now. 

Boki  and  Liliha  allowed  Mr.  Bingham,  the  missionary 
who  had  come  to  Honolulu,  to  build  his  grass  hut  on 
one  of  these  dusty  plains,  where  there  was  neither  water 
nor  wood  for  several  miles  beyond.  Mr.  Ruggles  and 
Mr.  Whitney  went  to  Kauai,  where  they  had  been  in- 
vited by  the  king. 

In  the  fall,  Kamehameha  II.  left  Kailua  and  came 
to  Honolulu  with  his  family  and  court,  and  with  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Thurston. 

Although  the  Hawaiians  had  given  up  their  idols, 
and  very  few  of  them  were  as  much  ■  afraid  of  their 
priests  as  they  had  been,  the  missionaries  did  not  find 
it  easy  to  teach  them,  for  people  cannot  give  up  at 
once  the  belief  taught  them  by  their  fathers.  They 
cannot  help  being  a  little  afraid  of  the  things  that 
they  have  been  taught  to  fear  as  harmful,  and  wrong 
thinking  of  this  sort  is  often  accompanied  by  bad  con- 
duct.    But  considering  how  they  had  been  deceived  by 


131 

their  priests,  and  how  little  they  knew  of  what  was 
really  right,  there  were  many  of  the  Hawaiians  who 
were  good  and  noble.  This  was  especially  true  of  the 
women,  although  the  laws  oppressed  them  very  cruelly. 

The  Hawaiians  had  been  taught  not  to  value  human 
life,  for  the  kings  or  chiefs  could  put  to  death  any  one 
who  displeased  them,  or  any  one  that  the  priest  selected 
for  sacrifice.  It  was  hard  to  make  them  understand 
how  wicked  and  cruel  this  was.  Many  still  believed 
secretly  in  the  old  religion.  They  told  the  people  who 
wished  to  do  as  the  missionaries  advised,  that  their  own 
priests  could  put  evil  spells  upon  them,  and  make  their 
Hawaiian  gods  punish  them. 

The  chiefs  despised  all  that  were  not  of  their  own 
rank,  but  they  respected  the  missionaries,  because  they 
were  white  men,  and  because  they  were  educated.  Lit- 
tle as  they  themselves  knew,  the  Hawaiians  had  great 
respect  for  learning  in  others.  This  was  why  they 
feared  and  obeyed  their  priests  who  pretended  to  know 
a  great  deal  that  no  one  else  could  find  out. 

The  missionaries  taught  the  people  the  Christian 
religion,  and  they  opened  schools  to  teach  them  to 
read  and  write. 

The  first  schoolhouse  was  a  large  grass  hut,  and  the 
pupils  were  called  together,  not  by  ringing  a  bell,  but 
by  blowing  on  a  conch  shell,  which  made  a  very  loud 
sound  that  could  be  heard  at  a  great  distance. 

The  pupils  were  of  all  ages.  Besides  the  children 
there  were  men  and  women  in  the  bloom  of  youth  and 
others  who  were  old  and  gray.  It  was  not  necessary  to 
force   them  to   go   to   school,  for  they  were   all   very 


132 

anxious  to  learn.  When  the  conch  shell  sounded 
they  came  pouring  out  of  their  huts  to  the  grass 
schoolhouse.  There  were  so  many  pupils  that  they 
could  not  all  be  taught  at  once.  They  had  to  be 
divided  into  classes,  and  some  came  at  one  hour,  and 
some  at  another.  They  had  no  desks  or  seats,  but 
sat  on  mats,  on  the  ground,  dressed  in  their  mantles 
of   red,  blue,  and  green  tapa,  and  they  wore  wreaths 


ta- 

^  .fS       J 

^iSj^RKS^t^  %JWH8B^^^^^^H| 

Hawaiian  Pupils 

of  flowers  on  their  heads  and  around  their  necks,  just 
as  they  do  to-day. 

The  Hawaiians  who  came  to  the  missionary  schools 
were  so  anxious  to  be  taught  that  they  carried  about 
with  them  everywhere  the  little  books  that  the  mission- 
aries made  for  them.  They  had  never  before  had  a 
written  language.  There  are  not  so  many  sounds  in  the 
Hawaiian  language  as  in  our  own,  and  the  alphabet 
which  the  missionaries  made  had  but  twelve  letters. 

Two  years  after  they  came,  the  missionaries  set  up 


133' 


a  printing  press,  and  printed  a  spelling  book  of  eight 

pages  in  Hawaiian  words,  but  with  letters  like  our  own. 

An  author  who  has  written  an  interesting  book  about 

the  old  Hawaiians  says  the  people  were   so  eager  to 

learn  the  new  and  wonderful  art  of  reading  and  writing 

that,  at  one  time,  nearly  the  whole  population  went  to 

school.    With  this 

great     love    for 

learning,  it  is  not 

surprising  that 

now  there  are  few 

people  in  Hawaii 

who   cannot  read 

and   write.      The 

people    are    very 

proud  of  this  fact, 

as     indeed     they 

have    a    right    to 

be. 

When  the  year 
the  king  had 
granted  to  the 
missionaries     had 

expired,  he  found  that  they  had  been  so  useful  to  his 
people  that  he  was  glad  to  have  them  stay  as  long  as 
they  pleased.  When  the  American  missionaries  had 
been  in  Honolulu  two  years,  the  English  missionary, 
whom  Vancouver  had  promised  to  send,  reached  the 
Islands.  His  name  was  William  Ellis,  and  he  and  the 
Americans  became  great  friends  and  worked  together 
very  peaceably.      Their  object  was  the  same,  —  to  be 


134 


helpful  to  the  people  and  teach  them  to  live  better  lives ; 
and  each  did  what  he  could  to  help  the  other. 

Since  the  American  missionaries  welcomed  Mr.  Ellis 
and  his  wife,  the  Hawaiitins  did  so  Hkewise,  for  they 
had  great  respect  for  their  teachers.  But  when  they 
came  to  know  Mr.   Ellis,  they  loved  him  for  his  own 

sake.  He  did  not 
remain  long  in 
Hawaii.  His  wife 
became  very  ill, 
and  he  had  to  re- 
turn to  England 
for  her  health. 
During  his  stay  he 
went  all  over  the 
Islands  with  the 
Americans  and 
wrote  a  long  ac- 
count of  what  he 
saw.  This  was 
published,  and  the 
people  in  England 
thus  learned  a 
great  deal  about  the  country.  He  also  translated  and 
published  some  of  the  Hawaiian  poetry. 

The  Hawaiians  are  very  fond  of  poetry;  but  their 
verse  is  not  like  ours.  It  is  musical,  but  usually 
mournful.  Before  they  knew  how  to  write,  they  com- 
mitted their  poetry  to  memory.  Parents  taught  their 
children  and  grandchildren,  and  in  this  way  it  was 
preserved.       Kapiolani    and    other    Hawaiian    queens 


Mrs.  Ellis 


135 

were  poets.  Their  poems,  after  they  became  Chris- 
tians, were  much  like  the  psalms  in  the  Bible.  This  is 
one  of  the  poems  which  Mr.  Ellis  translated.  It  was 
composed  at  the  time  of  the  death  of  a  great  chief,  and 
is  called  a  dirge : 

"  Alas !  alas !  dead  is  my  chief, 
Dead  is  my  lord  and  my  friend. 
My  friend  in  the  season  of  famine, 
My  friend  in  the  time  of  drought, 
My  friend  in  my  poverty, 
My  friend  in  the  rain  and  the  wind. 
My  friend  in  the  heat  and  the  sun, 
My  friend  in  the  cold  from  the  mountain, 
My  friend  in  the  storm, 
My  friend  in  the  calm, 
My  friend  in  the  eight  seas. 
Alas!  alas!  gone  is  my  friend 
And  no  more  will  return." 


3j»iC 


XXIII.   THE   OLD    MISSION    HOUSE 

NOT  far  from  the  stone  church  in  Honolulu  was 
an  old,  weather-beaten  frame  house.  It  was 
two  stories  high,  with  three  windows  above  and  three 
below.  Around  the  front  door  was  a  little  latticed 
porch  with  several  steps  leading  dowrr  to  the  front 
walk.  Like  all  the  older  houses  in  Honolulu,  it  had 
no  chimney.  There  was  something  rather  melancholy 
about  it,  as  if  scores' of  children  had  once  lived  there, 
and  grown  up  and  moved  away  into  homes  of  their 
own,  leaving  the  old  house  to  strangers.  Alice  felt 
sure  it  must  have  a  history,  and  when  she  asked  her 


136 


mother   about   it,    Mrs.   Earle   told   her   the   following 
story : 

It  was  the  first  house  that  was  ever  built  in  Hono- 
lulu. When  the  missionaries  came  to  Honolulu,  they 
lived  in  grass  houses,  like  those  of  the  Hawaiians. 
These  houses  were  cool  and  comfortable  in  warm 
weather,  but  they  were  not  well  lighted,  and  were  not 
divided   into    rooms,  so    that   all   the  members  of   the 


The  Old  Mission  House 

family,  and  sometimes  several  families,  were  crowded 
together  in  one  room.  This  was  a  great  trial  to  the 
men  and  women  who  had  come  straight  from  their 
comfortable  New  England  homes. 

Many  friends  in  Boston  were  interested  in  the  mis- 
sionaries, and  pitied  them  for  the  hardships  they  had 
to  endure.  They  had  already  sent  them  clothes  and 
books  and  other  useful  things.  But  now  they  decided 
to  send  them  a  house !     Of  course,  it  was  not  a  house 


137 

put  together,  all  ready  to  be  occupied,  because  no 
ship  could  have  carried  it.  But  it  was  the  frame- 
work, the  sills,  rafters,  and  shingles  for  the  roof,  the 
weather-boarding,  doors,  and  windows.  All  this  was 
very  carefully  packed  and  put  down  into  the  hold 
of  the  ship. 

No  one  ever  dreamed  that  when  the  frame  for  the 
house  had  been  brought  so  far  there  would  be  any 
further  trouble.  But  something  happened  that  no 
one  had  expected.  When  the  house  arrived,  the 
king,  Liholiho,  or  Kamehameha  II.,  would  not  let 
the  missionaries  put  it  up.  Grass  houses  had  been 
good  enough  for  his  people,  and  he  thought  they 
were  good  enough  for  the  missionaries.  He  resented 
the  idea  that  the  people  in  Boston  considered  grass 
huts  as  unfit  for  their  friends.  So,  when  the  mission- 
aries asked  whether  they  might  put  up  the  house,  he 
said :  "  My  father  never  allowed  a  foreigner  to  build  a 
house  in  this  country  except  for  the  king." 

The  missionaries  were  much  disappointed  and,  after 
a  while,  they  again  asked  permission  to  put  up  their 
house.  But  the  king  only  refused  more  decidedly  than 
at  first.  Yet  they  did  not  give  up  hope,  for  they  knew 
by  this  time  that  he  often  changed  his  mind.  So  two 
of  them  went,  with  their  wives,  to  call  upon  him,  and 
for  the  third  time  he  refused  their  petition. 

But  just  as  he  was  about  to  leave  them,  one  of  the 
ladies  went  up  to  him  and  told  him,  as  best  she  could, 
—  for  she  did  not  speak  his  language  well  —  how 
hard  it  was  for  people  used  to  New  England  houses 
to  find  comfort  in  the  grass  huts  which  lacked  so  many 


138 

things  they  were  accustomed  to.  She  spoke  so  gently 
yet  so  earnestly  that  the  king  saw  in  a  flash  how  much 
these  women  had  given  up, — comfortable  homes,  friends, 
and  pleasures,  —  and  all  for  no  other  reason  than  to 
make  his  people  happier.  Weak  and  intemperate  as 
the  king  was,  he  could  not  help  seeing  how  much 
better  his  people  were  since  the  coming  of  the  mis- 
sionaries, and  how  much  easier  it  was  to  govern  the 
country.  So-  he  answered  that  on  his  return  from 
Maui,  where  he  was  about  to  go  on  a  visit,  they 
might  put    up   their  house. 

But,  even  after  the  king  had  given  his  consent,  the 
missionaries  were  anxious  lest  he  should  again  change 
his  mind. 

The  king  and  the  chiefs  were  in  the  habit  of  com- 
ing to  the  missionaries'  homes  as  often  as  they  liked. 
They  stayed  to  dine  with  them  frequently;  and  the 
women  never  knew  how  much  food  to  prepare  or 
how  many  guests  to  expect.  A  few  days  before  he 
left  for  Maui,  the  king  and  several  chiefs  sat  at  the 
missionaries'  table,  and  he  was  reminded  of  his  con-' 
sent  that  the  house  should  be  built.  Again  he  said, 
"Yes,  you  may  build,'*  and  after  that  they  thought 
the  matter  settled. 

But  there  were  many  people  in  Honolulu  who  dis- 
liked the  missionaries.  They  liked  to  drink  and  gam- 
ble with  the  king,  and  it  annoyed  them  when  he  spent 
his  time  with  men  and  women  who  were  not  afraid 
to  tell  him  how  wicked  and  harmful  it  was  to  lead 
an  intemperate  life.  These  people  now  tried  to  per- 
suade the  king,  that  the  missionaries  were  spies;  that 


139 

they  did  not  mean  to  build  a  house,  but  a  fort;  and 
that  they  intended  to  fill  the  cellar  with  guns  and 
powder  and  shot. 

The  king  feared  that  this  might  be  true.  He  him- 
self had  a  fort  on  Punchbowl,  the  mountain  back  of 
Honolulu ;  and  he  directed  that  the  cannon  should  be 
turned   so  that  it  could    be   fired    at    the  missionaries 


Old  Hawaiian  Fort 


the  moment  they  began  to  carry  their  arms  into  the 
cellar.  But  when,  after  waiting  some  time,  the  king 
saw  no  sign  of  any  such  plot,  he  was  at  last  con- 
vinced that  the  missionaries  wished  him  no  harm, 
and  were  as  much  his  friends  as  they  had  ever 
been. 

When  the  house  was  finished,  the  three  families  of 
missionaries  in  Honolulu  moved  into  it,  and  they  lived 
under   its   roof    for   years.     When   they   were   settled 


140 

and  everything  was  in  order,  the  king  put  on  his 
finest  clothes  and  came  with  his  family  on  a  visit. 
He  went  all  over  the  house,  upstairs  and  down- 
stairs, and  was  greatly  delighted  with  everything 
he  saw.  At  last,  just  before  leaving,  he  said,  **  I 
wish  the  people  in  the  United  States  would  send  me 
a  house  three  stories  high !  "  As  he  was  king,  he 
thought  his  house  ought  to  be  at  least  one  story 
higher  than  that  of  the  missionaries. 

Mrs.  Thurston,  who  was  one  of  the  first  women  to 
live  in  the  house,  said  that  the  board  floors,  the  doors, 
and  the  windows  with  glass  in  them,  were  considered 
very  wonderful  by  the  Hawaiians,  and  the  king  was 
especially  pleased  with  the  wall  paper,  which  was  pink, 
with  delicate  gilt  vines. 

Besides  the  three  families,  the  house  was  always 
crowded  with  visitors :  foreigners  who  visited  the 
Islands,  the  king  and  his  family,  and  the  chiefs  and 
their  families.  Often  as  many  as  fifty  people  stayed 
for  dinner,  and  it  was  necessary  to  set  the  table  three 
times  for  each  meal.  Fortunately,  food  was  cheap, 
and,  such  as  it  was,  there  was  enough  of  it.  The 
king  and  the  chiefs  also  sent  the  missionaries  presents 
of  fruit,  and  taro,  and  pigs.  But  the  missionaries' 
wives  had  to  do  a  good  deal  of  the  cooking.  The 
Hawaiian  girls  who  lived  with  them  were  not  of  much 
assistance. 

When  Mrs.  Judd  came,  she  said  that  the  mission- 
aries and  their  wives  looked  "very  thin  and  care- 
worn." And  it  was  not  much  wonder,  for  the  women 
had   to    sew,    and   teach,    and    cook    dinners    for   fifty 


141 

guests  several  times  a  week.  Mrs.  Judd  said  that  in 
addition  to  all  this,  Mrs.  Bingham  had  been  forced 
to  make  the  king  twelve  shirts  with  ruffled  bosoms 
and  a  whole  suit  of  broadcloth. 

But  this  was  not  all  the  trouble  that  they  had. 
The  water  in  the  wells  was  salty,  and  their  clothes 
had  to  be  taken  to  the  streams  to  be  washed.  This 
was  done  by  pounding  them  with  stones,  which  soon 
wore  them  out.  They  would  have  worn  out  fast  enough 
without  being  pounded  to  pieces,  and  the  missionaries 
and  their  wives  were  sometimes  at  a  loss  to  know 
what  to  do.  They  patched  and  mended,  and  made 
their  clothes  last  as  long  as  possible.  But  it  was  easier 
to  mend  their  clothes  than  their  shoes,  which  also  wore 
out  very  quickly. 

Five  years  after  the  missionaries  finished  the  house, 
it  was  attacked  by  some  drunken  sailors  from  an 
American  ship. 

To  save  the  people  from  becoming  drunkards,  the 
missionaries  had  persuaded  the  regent  to  make  a 
law  to  punish  severely  any  one  who  sold  them  liquor. 
The  captain  of  the  ship  wanted  this  law  abolished. 
It  was  while  the  king  was  still  too  young  to  reign 
and  Boki  was  governor  of  Oahu.  Bad  as  he  was,  he 
would  not  at  first  agree  to  this.  Then  the  sailors 
came  ashore  and  attacked  several  of  the  houses. 
They  blamed  the  missionaries  for  the  law ;  and  they 
went  to  the  mission  house,  as  it  was  called,  and  did 
much  damage  before  they  were  driven  off. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham  and  their  child  would  have 
been  badly  hurt  and  perhaps  killed,  if   the  Hawaiian 


142 

chiefs   had   not   come   to   their   rescue   and    defended 
them  very  bravely. 

Alice  was  more  than  ever  interested  in  the  old  mission 
house  after  she  had  heard  this  story,  and  she  hoped 
that  the  people  of  Honolulu  would  never  allow  it  to 
be  torn  down. 

XXIV.    THE    STORY   OF    BOKI    AND    LILIHA 

AFTER  the  death  of  Kamehameha  H.  his  brother, 
Kau-i'ke-a-o-u'li,  was  chosen  king  and  called 
Kamehameha  HI.  Ka-a-hu-ma'nu,  widow  of  Kame- 
hameha the  Great,  was  appointed  ku-hi'na  nuH^  or 
regent;  that  is,  she  was  to  rule  until  the  young  prince 
was  old  enough  to  reign,  and  then  she  was  to  be  his 
adviser  for  life ;  and  she  also  had  the  power  to  veto 
his  acts. 

Now  there  was  a  handsome  young  chief  named  Boki, 
who  was  governor  of  Oahu,  and  because  he  was  so 
powerful,  Kaahumanu  unwisely  placed  the  young  king 
in  his  care.  But  both  Boki  and  his  beautiful  wife 
Liliha  were  very  wicked.  They  never  became  Chris- 
tians, but  obeyed  the  old  priests,  and  they  were  idle  and 
extravagant. 

Both  Boki  and  his  wife  were  opposed  to  the  queen 
regent,  anr[  with  other  chiefs  they  plotted  against  the 
young  king  and  tried  to  get  control  of  Hawaii.  Every 
day  Kaahumanu  had  cause  to  regret  her  step  in  placing 
the  young  king  under  the  care  of  such  guardians  as  Boki 
and  Liliha ;  for  instead  of  setting  him  a  good  example 


143 

and  leading  him  to  a  virtuous  life,  they  surrounded  him 
with  the  most  wicked  men  and  led  him  to  form  many 
bad  habits. 

Boki  and  Liliha.  lived  in  such  luxury  and  extrava- 
gance-that  soon  they  had  used  up  all  the  sandalwood  in 
Hawaii,  and  none  was  left  to  pay  the  debts.  A  great 
deal  of  trouble  and  misery  followed.  The  people  were 
the  greatest  sufferers,  and  their  condition  grew  from  bad 
to  worse.  Disorder  prevailed,  and  it  became  necessary 
to  pass  laws  to  punish  theft,  murder,  gambling,  and 
drunkenness.  Boki  and  Liliha  did  not  like  the  laws, 
and  they  refused  to  obey  them. 

But  when  all  the  sandalwood  was  gone,  Boki  himself 
became  poor,  and  when  some  one  told  him  of  an  island 
to  the  south  where  tons  of  sandalwood  were  waiting  to 
be  gathered,  all  his  friends'  warnings  could  not  keep 
him  home.  Two  of  the  king's  brigs,  the  Kamehameha, 
and  the  Beckett  were  fitted  up,  and  with  one  hundred 
and  nine  men,  including  many  of  his  wicked  companions, 
he  sailed  from  Oahu  in  search  of  wealth. 

The  Kameha^neha,  on  which  Boki  sailed,  touched  at 
one  island,  where  it  staid  two  days,  but  that  was  the 
last  ever  heard  of  it.  After  great  suffering  among  the 
crew,  the  Becket  made  her  way  back  to  Hawaii,  and  of 
all  those  who  had  sailed  with  Boki  but  twenty  returned. 

During  Boki's  absence  his  wife  Liliha  ruled  over 
Oahu  as  governor.  When  she  heard  of  her  husband's 
disappearance,  she  i*esolved  to  fill  the  fort  with  armed 
men,  so  that  she  could  keep  the  queen  regent,  Kaahu- 
manu,  from  taking  the  little  prince,  or  having  any 
authority  over  Oahu. 


144 

But  another  great  chief,  Ki-nau',  a  woman  who  had 
become  a  Christian,  heard  of  the  plot  and  revealed  it  to 
the  leading  chiefs.  As  they  did  not  want  to  fight 
and  shed  blood,  they  urged  Liliha's  father  to  talk  with 
her.  Among  the  Hawaiians,  disobedience  to  parents 
was  the  greatest  of  all  crimes,  and  Liliha,  bad  as  she 
was,  dared  not  refuse  her  father's  demand  that  she 
should  give  up  the  fort. 

When  the  young  prince  became  king,  LiUha  still  had 
much  influence  over  him,  and  when  at  last  Kaahumanu 
died,  everybody  feared  that  Liliha  would  be  chosen  to 
take  her  place.  She  herself,  indeed,  had  every  reason 
to  expect  it.  This  would,  however,  have  been  a  great 
disaster  to  the  country,  for  Liliha  objected  to  all  the 
reforms.  Her  election  would  have  meant  the  closing 
of  schools  and  churches,  a  return  to  all  the  barbarous 
practices,  and  probably  war. 

The  king  appointed  a  day  for  an  outdoor  meeting  of 
his  people,  at  -which  he  was  to  announce  his  decision. 
Thousands  came,  —  among  them  Kinau  and  her  friends 
and  Liliha  and  her  followers. 

When  the  king  arrived,  Kinau  saluted  him  and  said 
gravely,  "We  cannot  war  with  the  word  of  God  be- 
tween us." 

It  is  not  known  what  the  king  replied,  but  he  made  a 
long  speech  in  which  he  told  the  Hawaiians  that  he  was 
no  longei*  a  prince,  but  their  king,  whose  right  it  was  to 
rule.  Then  they  waited,  LiHha  and  her  friends  very 
confident,  and  Kinau,  and  those  who  were  with  her,  sad 
and  heavy-hearted.  But  the  young  king,  after  pausing 
a  moment,  called  out  in  a  clear  voice,  "  Know,  all  ye 


145 

people,  that  I,  the  king,  hereby  appoint  Kinau  as 
kuhina  nui." 

Then  a  shout  of  joy  went  up  from  the  multitude, 
while  Liliha  and  her  disappointed  followers  turned 
away  in  anger,  for  they  knew  that  now  their  power  was 
at  an  end.  The  young  king  might  still  be  friendly  with 
them,  but,  like  so  many  of  his  people,  he  was  weak  and 
indolent,  and  content  to  leave  the  ruling  of  the  kingdom 
to  Kinau.  As  Kinau  was  an  able  woman,  fit  to  rule 
and  anxious  for  the  good  of  her  people,  the  choice  was 
a  wise  one. 

When  asked  why  he  had  chosen  Kinau  as  regent,  the 
king  answered  simply,  "  Very  strong  is  the  kingdom  of 
God." 

XXV.     ''THE   LIFE   OF   THE   LAND" 

ALICE  often  thought  of  this  story.  Since  the  time 
of  Boki  and  Liliha  (about  1830)  great  changes 
have  taken  place  in  Honolulu.  It  has  become  a  city ; 
there  are  no  more  grass  houses,  and  the  Hawaiians  use 
silver  money.  Alice  herself  had  handled  many  of  these 
coins.  They  were  the  size  of  American  silver  dollars, 
half  dollars,  twenty-five-cent  pieces,  and  ten-cent  pieces. 
On  each  coin  was  the  head  of  King  Kalakaua,  in  whose 
reign  (1874-189 1 )  the  money  was  first  made.  Around 
the  edge  of  the  coin  were  the  words  in  Hawaiian  :  ''U^a 
mail  ke  e^a  0  ka  ai'na  i  ka  pohto,''  which  mean,  "The 
life  of  the  land  is  perpetuated  by  righteousness."  Alice, 
understood  this  motto  better  after  she  had  heard  the  fol- 
lowing story: 

KROUT'S    HAWAII — 10 


146 

After  Liliha  was  sent  away  in  disgrace,  arid  Kinau 
became  the  regent,  the  country  did  not  immediately 
grow  better.  Indeed,  for  a  time,  it  seemed  to  grow 
worse.  The  people  had  seen  so  much  wickedness,  and 
had  grown  so  used  to  drinking  and  gambling,  that  it 
was  no  easy  matter  to  get  rid  of  their  bad  habits. 

There  lived  in  Honolulu,  at  that  time,  an  English- 
man named  Captain  Richard  Charlton,  who  was  very 
friendly  with  Liliha,  ^and,  like  her,  objected  to  the  mis- 
sionaries and  their  schools  and  churches.  He  claimed 
a  large  tract  of  land  that  belonged  to  the  children  of  a 
chief.  This  he  declared  the  king  had  given  to  him. 
For  thirteen  years  he  had  said  nothing  of  his  claim, 
and  during  that  time  many  houses  had  been  built  on 
the  land,  and  it  had  greatly  increased  in  value.  The 
king,  Kamehameha  HI.,  denied  that  he  had  ever  given 
the  Englishman  the  land,  since  it  had  never  been  his  to 
give,  and  a  long  quarrel  followed,  which,  it  seemed  for 
a  while,  would  never  be  settled. 

By  this  time  the  Catholics  in  France  had  sent  their 
priests  out  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands  to  found  churches 
and  schools.  Both  the  king  and  Kinau  were  unfriendly 
to  the  priests,  because  they  reminded  them  of  the  native 
priests  who  had  formerly  ruled  the  Islands  with  selfish- 
ness and  cruelty. 

Captain  Charlton,  who  was  the  English  consul, 
helped  the  French  priests,  not  from  kindly  feeling 
toward  them,  but  simply  because  he  knew  this  would 
displease  Kinau.  It  must  be  confessed  that  in  this 
matter  of  persecuting  the  priests  Kinau  was  unjust,  and 
nothing  that  the  missionaries  could  say  or  do  altered 


147 

her  purpose  to  keep  her  subjects  from  becoming  Catho- 
lics. She  made  the  Catholics  work  on  the  roads,  and 
even  shut  them  up  in  prison. 

Captain  Charlton  became  more  and  more  friendly 
with  Liliha,  and  this  made  matters  worse. 

When  the  quarrel  grew  so  fierce  -that  the  king  could 
do  nothing  more,  he  sent  an  American,  Mr.  Richards, 
to  the  United  States,  England,  and  France  to  ask 
those  countries  to  help  him.  For  by  this  time,  Captain 
Charlton  had  gone  so  far  as  to  say  that  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  really  belonged  to  England. 

An  English  gentleman,  Sir  George  Simpson,  who 
was  a  friend  of  the  king,  and  a  Hawaiian,  Ha-a-li-li'o, 
the  king's  secretary,  went  with  Mr.  Richards  on  his 
errand  for  the  king. 

They  were  told  in  Washington  that  our  country 
would  defend  the  king  against  Charlton,  and  the 
queen  also  made  it  known  that  England  did  not  want 
the  Islands.  France,  at  that  time,  was  not  quite  so 
friendly. 

When  Captain  Charlton  learned  that  Mr.  Richards 
had  gone  to  England,  he  followed  him.  He  went  by 
the  way  of  Mexico,  where  he  met  Lord  George  Paulet, 
an  English  naval  officer  who  was  in  one  of  the  ports 
with  his  ship,  the  Carysfort. 

Lord  Paulet  was  a  cousin  of  Mr.  Alexander  Simpson, 
whom  Captain  Charlton  had  made  consul,  in  his  place, 
while  he  was  gone.  Captain  Charlton  persuaded  Cap- 
tain Paulet  that  the  Hawaiian  Islands  belonged  to  Eng- 
land, and  Captain  Paulet  determined  to  claim  them  for 
the  queen. 


148 


The  king  had  a  very  wise  friend,  fortunately,  who 
knew  just  what  to  do,  and  who  gladly  helped  him  in  his 
great  trouble.  This  was  Dr.  Judd,  who,  with  his  wife, 
had  gone  out  to  Honolulu,  many  years  before,  as  a  mis- 
sionary and  physician.  Dr.  Judd  was  as  brave  as  he 
was  wise.  When  the  Carysfort  came  into  the  harbor 
of   Honolulu,   Lord  Paulet  sent  for  the  king  to  come 

to  him,  instead  of  calling 
upon  the  king,  as  it  was 
his  place  to  do. 

The  king  did  not  go, 
but  sent  Dr.  Judd  to  rep- 
resent him.  Lord  Paulet 
would  not  talk  with  Dr. 
Judd.  He  ordered  the 
king  to  give  up  the  land 
that  Charlton  had  claimed, 
and  made  other  arbitrary 
demands.  The  ship  car- 
ried cannon  and  powder 
and  balls,  and  Lord  Paulet 
told  the  king  if  he  did  not  obey  him,  he  would  fire 
upon  the  town. 

Dr.  Judd  knew  that  the  king  had  few  guns  and  not 
many  soldiers,  and  was  no  match  for  Lord  Paulet.  If 
the  cannon  were  fired,  a  great  many  helpless  people 
would  be  wounded  and  killed.  More  than  this,  he  knew 
that  when  Queen  Victoria  should  hear  what  Lord  Paulet 
had  done,  she  would  take  the  king's  part.  So  Dr.  Judd, 
after  careful  consideration,  advised  the  king  to  yield  for 
the  time  being  to  Lord  Paulet,  and  to  seek  redress  from 


Kamehameha  III. 


149 

the  queen.  The  king,  acting  on  this  advice,  agreed  to 
surrender  the  Islands  under  protest,  and  appeal  to  the 
queen  for  justice. 

Lord  Paulet  came  ashore,  took  down  the  Hawaiian 
flag,  and  put  the  English  flag  in  its  place ;  but  when  the 
poor,  helpless  king  went  on  board  the  Caiysfort  to  visit 
him.  Lord  Paulet  made  so  many  further  insolent  de- 
mands, that  at  last  the  king  said,  "  I  will  not  die  piece- 
meal ;  they  may  cut  off  my  head  at  once.  I  will  give 
no  more." 

Then  the  king,  worn  out  with  sorrow  and  anxiety, 
departed  to  the  island  of  Maui.  Dr.  Judd  stayed  in 
Honolulu,  and  he  took  all  the  king's  important  papers 
and  hid  them  in  the  royal  tomb.  He  knew  that  no  one 
would  ever  think  of  looking  for  them  in  such  a  gloomy 
place.  Dr.  Judd  took  it  upon  himself  to  write  to  Queen 
Victoria  and  to  the  President  of  the  United  States  in 
behalf  of  the  king ;  and  to  keep  the  matter  secret,  he 
hid  himself  in  the  tomb  and  used  one  of  the  coffins  for 
his  writing  table. 

When  Queen  Victoria  received  the  letter  telling  of 
Lord  Paulet's  doings,  she  was  very  angry.  Immediately 
she  sent  to  Honolulu  an  English  ship,  the  DiLblin,  com- 
manded by  Admiral  Thomas,  a  brave  English  officer, 
who  had  orders  to  set  matters  right. 

The  king  returned  from  Maui,  and  Admiral  Thomas 
went  ashore  to  see  him,  and  treated  him  with  the 
greatest  respect.  When  he  told  the  king  that  he  was 
sent  by  Queen  Victoria  to  take  down  the  English  flag 
and  put  back  the  Hawaiian  flag,  both  king  and  people 
were   filled   with   joy   and    gratitude.      The    next   day 


ISO 

Monday,  July  31,  1843,  was  chosen  for  the  flag 
raising. 

It  was  a  beautiful,  sunny  day,  without  a  cloud  in  the 
sky.  The  king  and  all  the  people  gathered  in  an  open 
plain,  around  the  flagstaff.  With  the  king  and  the 
premier  and  the  court  were  the  men  and  officers  from 
the  three  English  ships  then  in  the  harbor,  the  Dublin, 
the  Hazard,  and  the  Cajysfort.  When  the  people  had 
all  assembled,  and  the  English  sailors  were  drawn  up 
in  line,  the  Hawaiian  flag  was  raised.  As  it  shook 
itself  free,  and  its  white  and  crimson  bars  floated  before 
the  breeze,  the  cannon  were  fired,  and  there  was  great 
rejoicing.  Lord  Paulet,  however,  felt  deeply  mortified 
to  see  the  flag,  which  he  had  taken  so  much  trouble  to 
pull  down,  put  back  in  its  place  by  order  of  his  queen. 

In  the  afternoon  a  thanksgiving  service  was  held  in 
the  stone  church.  The  king  made  a  speech,  urging  the 
people  to  live  better  lives,  and  to  try  to  be  worthy  of 
the  country  so  mercifully  restored  to  them.  He  ended 
his  speech  with  the  words,  ^'■JJa  man  ke  ea  0  ka  aina  i  ka 
pofio,''  and  these  words  were  later  adopted  as  the  national 
motto  and  printed  on  all  the  coins. 

The  rest  of  the  day  was  spent  in  feasting  and  singing. 
A  wonderful  dinner,  which  Mrs.  Judd  helped  prepare,  was 
served  to  the  English  officers.  Admiral  Thomas  stayed 
in  Honolulu  for  some  time,  helping  the  king  to  restore 
order  and  break  up  the  evil  practices  which  prevailed. 

The  31st  of  July  is  called  Restoration  Day  in  the 
Islands,  and  was  for  many  years  celebrated  like  the 
Fourth  of  July  with  us.  The  plain  where  the  flag  was 
raised  is  now  a  beautiful  garden  set  in  palms  and  flower- 


151 

ing  shrubs  and  plants.     It  is  called  Thomas  Square,  in 
honor  of  the  English  admiral. 

Alice  often  drove  through  it  with  her  father  and 
mother,  and,  as  she  did  so,  she  tried  to  imagine  how  it 
had  looked  on  the  day  when  the  Hawaiian  flag  was 
raised  and  the  Islands  were  given  back  to  the  king. 


XXVI.   MRS.   JUDD 

ALICE  thought  the  Hawaiian  flag  with  its  three 
crosses  very  much  like  the  English  flag.  Some 
one  told  her  that  the  Hawaiian  flag  had  been  patterned 
after  the  English  flag,  and  that  the  first  one  had  been 
made  by  Mrs.  Judd.  She  was  the  wife  of  Dr.  Judd, 
who  was  such  a  good  friend  to  the  king  when  Lord  Paulet 
came  to  Honolulu  in  the  Carysfort.  Dr.  Judd  was  one 
of  the  medical  missionaries.  He  did  not  come  out  to 
the  Hawaiian  Islands  until  some  time  after  the  other 
missionaries,  when  the  schools  and  churches  were  al- 
ready opened.  He  and  Mrs.  Judd  came  from  Boston 
in  a  sailing  vessel,  like  that  in  which  the  first  mis- 
sionaries had  made  the  voyage. 

The  ship  was  not  comfortable,  and  the  officers  were 
not  very  obliging,  and  they  endured  many  hardships. 
Mrs.  Judd  had  to  cook  and  mend  and  do  much  hard 
work.  She  related  all  this  in  an  interesting  book,  from 
which  Mrs.  Earle  often  read  to  Alice. 

After  Mrs.  Judd  and  her  husband  had  been  at  sea  for 


152 


several  months  they  anchored,  one  bright  Sunday  morn- 
ing, in  the  harbor  of  Honolulu. 

Mrs.  Judd  described  the  town  as  "a  mass  of  brown 
huts,  looking  like  so  many  haystacks  in  the  country ; 
not  one  white  cottage,  .no  church  spire,  not  a  garden 
nor  a  tree  to  be  seen,  save  the  grove  of  cocoanuts." 

In  the  center  of  the  village  was  one  grass  hut,  much 
larger  than  the  others.     Toward  this,  great  crowds  of 

people  were  hurry- 
ing; there  seemed 
to  be  thousands  of 
them,  dressed  in 
their  mantles  of 
bright  colors. 

When  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  Judd  went 
ashore  they  were 
welcomed  by  the 
missionaries  who 
were  already  there. 
The  queen  also 
treated  them  kindly 
and  gave  them  a 
grass  house  to  live  in.  The  other  missionaries  had 
been  overworked  and  were  glad  of  their  help,  which 
they  greatly  needed. 

Mrs.  Judd  gave  a  very  amusing  account  of  the  queen 
regent,  Kinau,  as  she  first  saw  her.  She  was  very  large 
and  fat.  She  wore  a  bright  silk  dress,  and  a  bonnet 
with  gay  feathers  in  it.  She  rode  in  a  blue  cart,  sit- 
ting with  her  feet  swinging  down  at  the  back  of  the 


Mrs.  Judd 


153 

cart.  She  was  very  heavy,  and  the  cart  was  drawn  by 
twenty  men. 

Kinau  was  very  kind  to  the  missionaries  and  their 
wives.  At  one  time  she  sent  one  of  the  ladies  a  rich 
silk  dress  of  brilliant  colors.  The  missionary's  wife 
did  not  want  it  and  sent  it  back,  but  the  queen  regent 
sent  another,  still  more  showy.  This  also  was  refused, 
because  it  was  "  too  fine  for  the  wife  of  a  missionary." 
Then  Kinau  sent  still  another,  of  rich  black  silk,  which 
the  lady  could  not  refuse. 

The  foreigners  were  supposed  to  obey  the  queen 
regent,  the  king,  and  the  chiefs,  who  were  sometimes 
very  exacting.  At  times  the  missionaries  and  their 
wives  found  it  impossible  to  do  just  what  the  rulers 
wished ;  but  the  Americans  were  so  much  respected 
that  even  the  king  did  not  often  try  to  force  them  to 
obedience. 

The  wives  of  the  missionaries  aided  them  in  the 
schools,  and  they  also  had  to  take  into  their  homes 
and  teach  the  young  children  of  the  king  and  the  chiefs. 

While  the  Hawaiians  were  very  friendly  and  generous 
with  each  other,  —  almost  like  one  great  family,  — 
they  were  not  much  attached  to  their  children.  The 
mothers  were  fond  of  visiting  and  dancing  and  bathing, 
and  they  did  not  like  the  care  of  young  children.  So 
they  often  gave  them  away,  or,  what  was  worse,  put  them 
to  death.  They  had  never  been  taught  that  this  was 
a  great  crime.  One  woman,  after  she  had  become  a 
Christian,  told  Mrs.  Judd  that  she  had  put  to  death  eight 
of  her  little  children  as  soon  as  they  were  born.  She 
had  buried  them  under  the  floor  of  her  hut.     She  had 


154 

just  learned  what  a  cruel  and  wicked  thing  this  was, 
and  she  shed  tears  as  she  made  her  confession. 

As  you  might  imagine,  Mrs.  Judd  had  very  little  time 
to  rest.  The  queen  regent,  especially,  visited  her  a 
great  deal,  and  sent  for  her  often  to  come  to  her  house. 

At  one  time  she  was  ordered  to  make  the  king  a  coat. 
She  had  never  learned  how  to  make  coats,  so  she  was 
a  good  deal  puzzled.  But  she  was  a  clever  woman,  and 
knew  how  necessary  it  was  not  to  offend  the  king,  for 
fear  that  he  might  close  the  schools  and  forbid  the 
missionaries  to  teach.  Yet  she  had  not  even  a  pattern. 
After  thinking  about  it  a  great  deal,  she  took  an  old 
coat  of  her  husband's  to  pieces,  and  from  this  she  cut 
out  one  for  the  king.  The  king  himself  had  bought  from 
a  trader  some  fine  cloth  which  he  sent  her  to  make  up. 
As  the  king  was  not  of  the  same  size  or  figure  as 
Dr.  Judd,  the  coat  did  not  fit ;  it  was  too  tight  in  some 
places  and  too  loose  in  others.  But,  as  it  was  the  first 
coat  he  had  ever  had,  the  king  did  not  notice  this,  and 
he  was  very  proud  of  it. 

When  Dr.  Judd  and  his  wife  came  to  the  Islands,  the 
king  was  a  little  boy.  When  he  grew  up  and  governed 
the  country,  they  were  both  very  good  to  him.  They 
lived  for  the  rest  of  their  lives  in  Honolulu. 

Once  measles  broke  out  among  the  people.  A  great 
many  died  simply  because  they  would  not  take  the 
medicine  the  EngHsh  and  American  physicians  wished 
to  give  them.  They  called  in  their  own  doctors,  who 
knew  nothing  about  the  disease,  and,  when  they  were 
burning  with  fever,  they  bathed  in  the  cold  surf.  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  Judd  visited  the  Hawaiians  when  they  were 


155 

ill,  and  did  whatever  they  could  to  help  them.  When 
later  the  smallpox  broke  out  Dr.  Judd  had  the  greatest 
difficulty  in  persuading  the  people  to  be  vaccinated, 
especially  as  many  of  those  who  were  vaccinated  never- 
theless caught  the  disease  and  died. 

The  king  told  Dr.  Judd  to  feel  free  to  do  whatever 
he  thought  best,  and  he  had  two  other  physicians  to 
help  him. 

Nearly  three  thousand  people  died,  and  many  of  the 
natives  blamed  Dr.  Judd  for  the  death  of  their  friends, 
which  their  own  doctors  told  them  was  the  result  of 
vaccination.  It  was  a  long  time  before  Dr.  Judd  could 
regain  their  confidence.  With  the  measles  and  small- 
pox, nearly  eleven  thousand  people  had  died  in  five 
years. 

When  Dr.  Judd  hid  himself  and  King  Kamehameha's 
papers  in  the  royal  tomb,  Mrs.  Judd  showed  her  bravery 
and  self-control.  For  when  the  British  officers  could 
not  find  Dr.  Judd,  or  the  important  papers  which  they 
wanted,  they  came  to  her  house  and  tried  to  force  her 
to  tell  where  her  husband  was ;  but  she  steadfastly  re- 
fused to  reveal  the  secret. 

One  of  Mrs.  Judd's  hardest  tasks  was  to  arrange  the 
dinner  for  Admiral  Thomas.  This  gave  the  wives  of 
the  missionaries  a  great  deal  of  anxiety.  The  king  was 
very  intemperate,  and  they  had  seen  what  great  evils 
drinking  had  caused  among  the  Hawaiians.  Neither 
the  missionaries  nor  their  families  used  wine,  because 
they  did  not  wish  to  set  a  bad  example  to  the  king  and 
the  people. 

The   English   officers   were   used   to  drinking  wine. 


156 

They  always  expected  to  have  it  offered  them  at  dinner ; 
especially  at  such  a  dinner  as  this  was  to  be.  Mrs.  Judd 
knew  that  the  officers  would  be  very  much  disappointed,' 
but  she  and  the  wives  of  the  other  missionaries  decided 
that,  on  account  of  the  king,  there  should  be  no  wine. 
It  was  a  wonderful  dinner,  with  beef  and  ham,  fish  and 
poultry,  and  all  manner  of  cakes,  puddings,  and  fruit. 
They  had  tea  and  coffee,  and  delicious  cocoanut  milk 
—  but  no  wine. 

Mrs.  Judd  saw  that  even  Admiral  Thomas  thought 
this  a  little  inhospitable.  They  tried  not  to  notice  the 
disappointment  of  their  guests,  and,  being  well-bred 
women,  they  did  not  venture  to  offer  any  apologies. 
Afterwards,  Admiral  Thomas  told  Mrs.  Judd  that  they 
had  done  right ;  and  he  praised  them  for  their  wisdom 
and  courage. 


3j<«C 


XXVII.     MOLOKAI  AND  THE  LEPERS 

ALICE  did  not  visit  Molokai,  the  island  set  apart  for 
the  poor  lepers  —  people  afflicted  with  a  terrible 
incurable  disease. 

A  little  steamer  makes  regular  trips  between 
Honolulu  and  Molokai,  carrying  the  mails  and  any 
visitors  who  have  secured  a  permit  from  the  govern- 
ment physicians. 

In  the  time  of  the  first  Kamehamehas  there  was  no 


157 

leprosy  in  Hawaii.  It  was  brought  from  abroad,  but  it 
spread  so  rapidly  among  the  intemperate  people  that 
the  king  and  his  advisers  —  able  American  and  Euro- 
pean physicians — began  to  consider  how  it  could  be 
checked.  They  finally  agreed  upon  a  plan  which,  while 
'it  seemed  very  hard  and  cruel,  was  really,  in  the  end, 
kind  and  humane.  The  Hawaiians  themselves  never 
shunned  the  lepers.  They  were  not  repelled  by  their 
drawn  and  misshapen  features,  but  ate  out  of  the  same 


1 

r 

^m 

™^.~ 

g^^^ 

iiUi«nf.a 

■    Jd&lBl  1'  M  ill.  MSOi 

SBHS 

■fiWMi 

Group  of  Lepers 


calabash  used  by  their  friends  whose  hands  were  badly 
diseased.  If  their  friends  or  relatives  became  lepers, 
they  had  no  fear  of  living  with  them,  and  they  mourned 
for  them  greatly  when  they  died. 

It  was  thought  that  this  was  one  reason  why  the 
disease  could  not  be  controlled ;  so  the  Islands  were 
divided  into  districts,  and  the  police  went  up  and  down 
through  each  district,  watching  very  carefully,  to  discover 
any  lepers  among  the  people.  When  any  were  found, 
they  were  taken  away  from  their  families  and  sent  to  a 
hospital  in   Honolulu.     There  they  were  kept  until  it 


158 

was  certain  that  there  could  be  no  mistake  about  their 
disease.  Then  they  were  put  on  board  the  steamer  and 
taken  over  to  Molokai,  and  were  forbidden  ever  again 
to  return  to  their  homes. 

It  was  in  1865  that  it  was  decided  that  lepers  should 
be  sent  to  Molokai,  and  land  for  a  settlement  was 
bought  on  the  north  side  of  the  island.  This  settlement 
is  on  a  peninsula  which  contains  about  three  thousand 
acres.  The  sea  surrounds  it  on  three  sides,  and  it  is 
joined  to  the  mainland  of  Molokai  on  the  south  side  by 
a  precipice  three  thousand  feet  high.  All  around  the 
isthmus,  which  juts  into  the  sea,  the  deep,  rough  surf  is 
never  still,  and  through  this  surf  even  the  Hawaiian 
swimmer  could  hardly  make  his  way.  Sometimes  the 
surf  is  so  rough  that  the  boats  cannot  land.  The 
precipice  on  the  south  is  so  high  and  steep  that  the 
lepers  cannot  escape  in  this  direction  from  their  prison. 

Aside  from  being  captives,  the  lepers  have  now 
nothing  to  complain  of  in  their  treatment.  Their  home 
is  in  the  lovely  valley  of  Wai-ko'lu,  across  which  cool 
sea  breezes  blow  continually.  They  have  excellent  hos- 
pitals with  able  physicians  and  nurses.  The  govern- 
ment has  built  comfortable  houses  for  them,  and  provides 
them  with  food  and  clothing.  They  have  dogs  and 
horses  and  many  comforts.  Flowers  grow  everywhere, 
and  they  make  wreaths  and  garlands  which  they  twine 
round  their  heads  and  necks,  just  as  they  did  when  they 
were  at  home,  among  their  friends  and  relatives. 

Fortunately,  while  they  become  more  and  more  dis- 
figured by  the  disease,  they  do  not  suffer  very  much, 
for  it  is  not  very  painful. 


159 

There  are  two  villages  in  the  settlement,  Ka-la-wa'o 
on  the  east  side,  and  Ka-lau-pa'pa  on  the  west  side  of 
the  peninsula,  and  the  people  living  in  the  villages  ride 
back  and  forth,  visiting  one  another,  just  as  people  do 
in  other  places. 

When  it  was  decided  to  send  all  the  lepers  to  Molokai, 
the  Hawaiians  were  very  much  opposed  to  it.  They  hid 
their  sick  in  caves,  or  in  the  forests,  so  that  they  might 
not  be  discovered,  and  carried  them  food  and  cloth- 
ing. But  the  poor  lepers  were  always  found  at  last. 
They  were  missed  from  their  homes,  and  their  friends 
were  watched  coming  and  going  from  their  hiding  places. 
When  discovered,  they  were  arrested  and  taken  to 
Honolulu,  and  from  there  sent  to  Molokai.  Their 
friends  and  relatives  came  down  to  the  ship  to  see  them 
sail  away,  and  their  grief  at  parting  was  heart-breaking. 
It  is  indeed  a  sad  thing  to  think  of  wives  and  husbands, 
parents  and  children,  bidding  each  other  good-by  for- 
ever. Those  who  were  left  behind  stood  crying  and 
calling  after  the  ship,  until  it  sank  out  of  sight;  and 
the  poor  lepers  looked  back  at  the  land  to  which  they 
knew  they  could  never  return. 

The  year  after  the  settlement  was  estabHshed,  one 
hundred  and  forty  lepers  were  sent  to  Molokai,  —  men, 
women,  and  children.  No  difference  was  made  between 
the  high  and  the  low,  the  rich  and  the  poor.  All  were 
treated  alike,  —  Hawaiian  guides  and  fishermen,  Chinese 
laborers  from  the  plantations,  and  even  the  relatives  of 
the  queen. 

Among  those  who  were  rich  and  well-born  was  William 
Ragsdale,  a  cousin  of  the  beautiful  Queen  Emma.     He 


i6o 

was  a  well-educated  lawyer,  but  being  a  leper,  he, 
too,  had  to  go  to  the  settlement  upon  Molokai.  He 
was  a  fine  orator,  and  had  much  influence  over  the 
people.  He  took  great  interest  in  the  lepers  and  gave 
them  good  advice.  He  had  so  much  authority  that  he 
was  called  *' Governor  Ragsdale,"  although  he  was  not 
really  the  governor  of  Molokai.  He  was  assisted  in  his 
work  among  the  lepers  by  twenty  other  men  belonging 
to  the  settlement,  all  of  whom  were  lepers  like  himself. 
But  everything  was  done  that  he  suggested  and  as  he 
advised. 

At  first  the  houses  in  which  the  lepers  lived  were 
uncomfortable  and  poor ;  the  people  did  not  try  to  keep 
them  clean,  and  were,  in  every  way,  very  miserable. 

After  a  time,  King  Kalakaua  and  Queen  Kapiolani 
visited  Molokai,  to  see  for  themselves  the  condition  of 
the  settlement.  They  were  urged  to  do  this  by  kind 
men  who  had  charge  of  the  lepers,  and  who  knew  that 
a  great  deal  of  money  would  be  needed  to  build  better 
houses  and  hospitals,  and  to  provide  many  necessary 
comforts  which  were  lacking. 

The  king  made  a  touching  speech  to  the  lepers,  who 
had  great  respect  for  his  rank  and  listened  to  him  very 
attentively.  He  told  them  how  much  it  grieved  him  to 
send  them  away  from  their  homes  and  families,  but  said  he 
hoped  they  realized  that  it  was  necessary.  He  praised 
them  for  their  obedience  to  the  law,  and  promised  that 
he,  on  his  part,  would  do  all  he  could  to  make  their  lot 
as  comfortable  as  possible.  The  poor  lepers  were  much 
touched,  and  wept  at  the  king's  kind  speech.  He  kept 
his  word,  and  did  much  to  improve  the  lepers'  lot. 


i6i 

Among  the  lepers  present  at  the  time  of  the  king's 
visit  were  two  other  cousins  of  Queen  Emma.  They, 
however,  fared  better  than  the  others,  for  they  could 
afford  to  have  neat  wooden  houses  built,  comfortably 
furnished  with  everything  that  they  desired.  At  that 
time  all  the  other  lepers  lived  in  poor  huts,  where  they 
had  neither  sunhght   nor  fresh  air. 

For  some  time  after  the  lepers  were  sent  to  Molokai, 
every  passenger  on  the  ships  that  came  into  the  harbor 
at  Honolulu  was  required  to  pay  one  dollar.  This 
money  was  saved  and  given  to  those  who  had  charge 
of  the  settlement,  and  with  it  many  improvements  were 
made.  The  government  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  was 
then  too  poor  to  make  the  necessary  improvements 
without  this  assistance.  When,  later,  the  great  sugar 
plantations  were  opened  up,  the  country  became  richer 
and  the  government  was  then  able  to  take  care  of  the 
lepers  without  taxing  travelers. 

The  government  has  also  employed  physicians  to 
study  and  find  out  all  that  can  be  learned  about  leprosy. 
They  travel  all  over  the  world  where  they  may  meet 
men  who,  like  themselves,  are  studying  and  observing 
the  disease  in  other  lands.  For  there  are  thousands  of 
lepers  in  China,  India,  Syria,  and  even  in  cold  countries 
like  Siberia,  Norway,  and  Sweden. 

Of  the  two  villages  in  the  settlement  on  Molokai, 
the  larger  is  Kalawao,  and  there  are  more  lepers  there 
than  at  Kalaupapa,  which  is  on  the  other  side  of  the 
peninsula. 

The  hospital  buildings,  which  are  arranged  around  a 
grassy  square  shaded  with  algaroba   trees,  are  in  the 

KROUT'S   HAWAII  —  II  ^ 


l62 

village  of  Kalawao.  They  are  whitewashed  and  kept 
very  clean.  The  doctor  who  has  charge  of  the  hospital 
lives  in  a  house  near  by,  with  his  assistants,  and  there 
is  a  dispensary  where  all  who  need  medicine  can  get  it. 
This,  like  their  food  and  clothing  and  houses,  is  fur- 
nished free  to  the  lepers  by  the  government. 

Each  leper  is  allowed  every  week  twenty-one  pounds 
of  poi  or  other  food,  if  he  prefers  it,  and  from  five  to 
six  pounds  of  beef.  Sometimes  the  steamers  cannot 
deliver  the  provisions  that  have  been  sent  to  the  lepers 
because  the  surf  is  so  rough  that  the  boats  cannot 
land.  When  this  happens,  they  are  given  rice  and 
salmon  and  other  food  instead. 

There  are  two  Catholic  and  three  Protestant  chapels 
in  the  settlement,  several  schoolhouses,  and  one  large 
general  store. 

After  twenty-five  years  of  careful  study,  not  much 
more  is  known  of  leprosy  than  when  it  first  appeared 
in  the  Islands.  It  does  not  seem  to  be  contagious,  like 
smallpox  or  scarlet  fever,  and  children  whose  parents 
are  lepers  are  often  quite  healthy.  If  they  are  born  in 
Molokai,  they  are  kept  there  until  they  are  fourteen  or 
fifteen  years  old.  Then  it  is  thought  that  they  are  safe, 
and  they  are  allowed  to  go  away  and  live  wherever  they 
please.  No  cure  for  the  disease  has  ever  been  found, 
although  many  things  have  been  tried.  No  one  who 
has  once  had  leprosy  has  ever  been  known  to  get  well. 

For  all  this,  the  lepers  are  not  sad.  They  sing  and 
laugh  and  enjoy  themselves,  much  as  other  people  do. 
They  like  to  go  to  church,  to  ride,  bathe,  make  wreaths, 
and  listen  to  the  band  which  has  been  taught  by  one 


i63 

of  the  teachers  in  the  school  to  play  upon  many  kinds 
of  instruments.  The  band  plays  in  the  open  air, 
several  evenings  in  the  week.  There  is  none  like 
it  in  the  world,  for  every  one  of  the  musicians  is  a 
leper. 

XXVIII.     FATHER   DAMIEN 

MRS.  EARLE  carefully  explained  all  this  to  Alice, 
and  it  made  her  very  sad.  She  could  never  look 
in  the  direction  of  Molokai  without  thinking  of  the 
island  lying  out  of  sight,  below  the  rim  of  the  horizon, 
and  of  the  poor  people  who  were  sent  there  for  life. 
She  did  not,  of  course,  see  any  lepers  while  she  was  in 
Honolulu,  for  they  were  all  kept  in  the  receiving  hospi- 
tal until  they  were  sent  to  Molokai. 

At  her  home  in  Chicago  there  was  a  picture  hanging 
above  Mrs.  Earle's  desk  which  Alice  had  always  loved 
dearly.  It  was  the  picture  of  Father  Damien,  a  priest 
who  went  out  to  Molokai,  and  lived  among  the  lepers 
until  he  died.  His  face  was  sweet  and  gentle,  with 
large  dark  eyes,  a  straight,  beautiful  nose,  and  a  mouth 
that  looked  as  if  it  might  smile  with  great  tenderness 
and  compassion. 

While  they  were  sitting  in  their  room  one  afternoon, 
Alice  asked  her  mother  to  tell  her  again  the  story  of 
Father  Damien.  Mrs.  Earle  was  busy  with  some  sew- 
ing which  she  did  not  lay  aside,  and  Alice  drew  up  a 
little  stool  and  sat  at  her  feet,  listening  to  the  story  of 
this  noble  life. 


1 64 


Father  Damien  was  born  in  Louvain,  a  city  in 
Belgium,  on  January  3,  1840.  His  mother  and  father 
were  pious  people,  and  they  brought  up  their  children 
very  carefully.     Their  son  Joseph  was  a  gentle  lad,  full 


Father  Damien 


of  fun,  but  thoughtful  of  many  things  which  do  not  usu- 
ally interest  boys.  He  wanted,  above  all,  to  do  good  in 
the  world ;  to  help  others  who  had  not  so  comfortable 
a  home,  nor  such  kind  parents  as  his  own. 

Alice  wanted  to  know  how  Father  Damien  came  to 
decide  to  spend  his  life  in  Molokai,  and  Mrs.  Earle  took 


i65 

from  her  shelf  a  book  by  Mr.  Edward  Clifford,  and 
read  the  following  account: 

"  On  his  nineteenth  birthday  his  father  took  him  to 
see  his  brother,  who  was  then  preparing  for  the  priest- 
hood, and  he  left  him  there  to  dine,  while  he  himself 
went  on  to  a  neighboring  town. 

"Young  Joseph  decided  that  here  was  the  oppor- 
tunity for  taking  the  step  which  he  had  long  been 
desiring  to  take,  and  when  his  father  came  back  he  told 
him  that  he  wished  to  return  home  no  more,  and  that  it 
would  be  better  thus  to  miss  the  pain  of  farewells. 
His  father  consented  unwillingly,  but,  as  he  was  obliged 
to  hurry  to  the  conveyance  which  was  to  take  him 
home,  there  was  no  time  for  demur,  and  they  parted  at 
the  station.  Afterwards,  when  all  was  settled,  Joseph 
revisited  his  home,  and  received  his  mother's  approval 
and  blessing. 

"  His  brother  was  bent  on  going  to  the  South  Seas 
for  mission  work,  and  all  was  arranged  accordingly; 
but  at  the  last  he  was  laid  low  with  fever,  and,  to  his 
bitter  disappointment,  forbidden  to  go.  The  impetuous 
Joseph  asked  him  if  it  would  be  a  consolation  to  him  to 
have  his  brother  go  instead,  and,  receiving  an  affirma- 
tive answer,  he  wrote  secretly,  offering  himself,  and 
begging  that  he  might  be  sent,  though  his  education 
was  not  yet  finished.  The  students  were  not  allowed 
to  send  out  letters  till  they  had  been  submitted  to  the 
Superior,  but  Joseph  ventured  to  disobey. 

"  One  day,  as  he  sat  at  his  studies,  the  Superior  came 
in,  and  said,  with  a  tender  reproach,  '  Oh,  you  impa- 
tient boy !  you  have  written  this  letter,  and  you  are  to  go.' 


i66 

"Joseph  jumped  up,  and  ran  out,  and  leaped  about 
like  a  young  colt. 

"  He  worked  for  some  years  on  other  islands  in  the 
Pacific,  but  it  happened  that  he  was  one  day,  in  1873, 
present  at  the  dedication  of  a  chapel  in  the  island  of 
Maui,  when  the  bishop  was  lamenting  that  it  was  not 
possible  for  him  to  find  a  missionary  to  send  to  the 
lepers  at  Molokai.  He  had  only  been  able  to  send 
them  occasional  and  temporary  help. 

"  Some  young  priests  had  just  arrived  in  Hawaii  for 
mission  work,  and  Father  Damien  instantly  spoke. 
*  Here  are  your  new  missionaries,'  said  he ;  *  one  of 
them  could  take  my  district,  and  if  you  will  be  kind 
enough  to  allow  it,  I  will  go  to  Molokai  and  labor  for 
the  poor  lepers  whose  wretched  state  of  bodily  and 
spiritual  misfortune  has  often  made  my  heart  bleed 
within  me.' 

"  His  offer  was  accepted,  and  that  very  day,  without 
any  farewells,  he  embarked  on  a  boat  that  was  taking 
some  cattle  to  the  leper  settlement. 

"  When  he  first  put  his  foot  on  the  island  he  said  to 
himself,  *  Now,  Joseph,  my  boy,  this  is  your  life  work.'  " 

He  built  himself  a  hut  under  a  palm  tree  and  lived 
there  for  many  years,  until  he  had  time  to  erect  a 
house ;  for  he  was  busy  every  moment,  night  and  day, 
among  those  who  had  need  of  his  help.  He  scarcely 
took  time  to  eat  or  sleep. 

There  are  few  things  useful  to  a  life  among  the 
lepers  that  he  could  not  do.  He  built  a  church  very 
near  the  palm  tree  under  which  he  had  lived  when  he 
came  to  the  settlement.     He  used  with  skill  the  plane 


i67 

and  the  saw  and  the  hammer.  He  taught  the  children 
in  the  schools ;  he  preached  and  worked  in  his  garden ; 
he  nursed  the  sick,  and  even  dug  graves  for  the  dead. 
All  this  time  he  went  about  as  if  his  were  the  happiest 
life  in  the  world. 

When  there  was  danger  that  Father  Damien  might 
become  a  leper,  because  he  was  so  constantly  with  the 
sick  and  the  dying,  his  friends  begged  him  to  leave  the 
island,  but  he  said,  "  I  could  never  choose  to  be  well  at 
the  price  of  giving  up  my  life  work."  For  twelve  years 
he  escaped ;  then  he,  too,  fell  a  victim  to  the  dread 
disease. 

He  was  very  brave  and  uncomplaining,  and  never 
regretted,  for  an  instant,  that  he  had  come  to  Molokai. 
Even  when  he  was  told  that  he  must  die,  he  still 
worked  on  bravely.  He  knew  that  lepers  often  outlive 
those  who  are  apparently  strong  and  healthy,  and  he 
thought  only  of  what  he  could  accomplish  before  the 
time  should  come  when  he  could  work  no  longer. 

"You  can  understand,"  said  Mrs.  Earle,  "how  much 
such  an  example  did  for  the  people,  for,  when  we  see 
others  bearing  trials  patiently,  it  helps  us  to  bear  our 
own.  And  this  was  what  Father  Damien  did  for  the 
lepers." 

XXIX.    A  VISIT   TO    FATHER   DAMIEN 

WHEN  Father  Damien  had  been  at  Molokai  many 
years  people  throughout  the  world  began  to  hear 
of  his  good  deeds.     Everybody  was  interested  in  him 


1 68 


and  wanted  to  help  him,  particularly  when  it  became 
known  that  he  himself  had  fallen  a  victim  to  the  terrible 
disease. 

In  England,  especially,  contributions  were  raised,  and 
in  1888  a  traveler,  Mr.  Edward  Clifford,  offered  to  de- 
liver the  gifts,  and  cheering  letters  which  accompanied 
them,  to  Father  Damien. 


{CopyriyM,  IS'J'.),  hy  C.  C.  Langill.) 


School  in  Molokai 


As  his  vessel  neared  the  coast  of  Molokai,  Mr.  Clif- 
ford saw  the  island  covered  with  grass  and  trees ; 
the  white  cottages  and  the  slender  church  spires  ;  and  the 
surf  tossing  its  white  spray  high  into  the  air  along  the 
rocky  coast.  The  steep,  black,  almost  pathless  cliffs 
reached  to  the  clouds.  The  sea  was  so  rough  that  the 
vessel  could  not  land,  so  the  party  put  off  in  a  boat 
for  a  rocky  point  a  few  miles  from  the  town,  where  they 
decided  to  leap  ashore. 


169 

As  the  boat  approached,  Mr.  Clifford  saw  Father 
Damien  at  a  distance,  a  dark  figure,  coarsely  dressed, 
coming  slowly  down  to  the  water's  edge,  where  he  ex- 
changed signals  with  the  men  in  the  boat. 

In  spite  of  the  roughness  of  the  sea  and  the  difficulty 
of  landing  even  the  men,  Mr.  Clifford  was  unwilling  to 
leave  behind  him  the  gifts  for  Father  Damien ;  so  he 
opened  the  large  box  in  the  boat,  and  the  parcels  were 
handed  out,  one  by  one,  across  the  waves. 

At  the  time  of  this  visit  Father  Damien  was  nearly 
forty-nine  years  old  —  a  strongly  built  man  with  black 
curly  hair,  and  a  short  beard  turning  gray.  He  had 
been  in  the  island  for  sixteen  years,  and  for  the  last 
four  years  had  been  a  leper.  The  disease  had  left  its 
marks  upon  him,  and  yet  it  was  pleasant  to  look  at  his 
noble,  cheerful  face. 

Since  he  had  come  to  Molokai  he  had  been  joined  by 
another  priest,  Father  Conradi,  and  by  four  sisters  who 
spent  their  time  taking  care  of  the  little  girls  and  teach- 
ing them  to  read  and  sew.  A  home  for  girls  had  been 
founded,  called  Kapiolani  Home,  in  honor  of  the  wife 
of  Kalakaua  who  was  king  when  it  was  built. 

There  were,  in  addition,  several  Protestant  churches, 
and  their  pastors  also  worked  faithfully  and  patiently 
among  the  lepers. 

Father  Damien  was  very  much  pleased  with  the  pres- 
ents that  had  been  sent  from  London,  and  he  was  much 
interested  in  untying  all  the  parcels  and  wondered  what 
they  contained.  There  were,  among  many  other  things, 
beautiful  pictures,  a  magic  lantern,  a  musical  instrument 
that  played  forty  different  tunes,  with  gifts  of  money 


I/O 

out  of  which  Father  Damien  could  buy  for  the  lepers 
whatever  he  thought  they  most  needed. 

A  great  English  painter,  Sir  Edward  Burne-Jones,  in 
admiration  of  Father  Damien's  work,  painted  for  him  a 
beautiful  picture  —  "  The  Vision  of  St.  Francis."  Father 
Damien  hung  this  picture  in  his  own  room,  where  he 
could  always  see  it. 

He  lived  on  the  upper  floor  of  a  house  which  he  had 
built  quite  near  the  new  Catholic  church,  and  the  lower 
floor  he  gave  up  to  his  friend.  Father  Conradi. 

Mr.  Clifford  found  everything  much  improved  in  both 
the  villages.  New  houses,  light  and  airy,  had  been  built 
for  the  people,  on  trestles,  high  above  the  ground.  A 
good  supply  of  clear,  cold  water  was  brought  down  in 
pipes  from  the  mountains  ;  the  hospitals  were  clean  and 
comfortable  ;  and  the  number  of  churches  had  increased 
to  five. 

Mr.  Clifford  reached  Molokai  about  Christmas  time, 
so  that  the  box  he  brought  was  really  a  beautiful  Christ- 
mas present.  He  heard  Father  Damien  preach  a  good, 
sensible  sermon  that  all  could  understand,  simply  urging 
the  people  to  do  right  and  be  good.  There  was  very 
sweet  singing  by  the  choir  which  he  had  trained.     One 

of  the  hymns 

"  Come  hither,  ye  faithful, 
Triumphantly  sing  " 

Mr.  Clifford  had  heard  sung  very  often  in  his  little  vil- 
lage church  in  England  on  Christmas  mornings,  when 
the  ground  was  white  with  snow,  and  the  walls  were 
covered  with  spicy  cedar,  and  the  glossy,  prickly  holly 
with  its  scarlet  berries.     There,  everybody  was  joyous 


and  happy,   and   the  children  had  all  come  home  to 
spend  the  happy  Christmastide  together. 

What  a  contrast  to  the  scene  on  Molokai !  There  was 
no  home-coming,  ever  again,  for  the  lepers.  Instead  of 
snow,  there  were  bright  flowers  everywhere.  Through 
the  open  doors  and  windows  could  be  seen  palms  and 
mangoes  waving  in  the  soft  wind,  and  the  mynahs  could 
be  heard  chattering  in  the  algaroba  trees. 

In  the  afternoon  Father  Damien  talked  in  the  Hawai- 
ian language  to  the  boys,  very  much  as  he  had  preached 
to  the  older  people  in  the  morning. 

He  was  a  very  humble  man,  both  in  his  acts  and  his 
speech.  When  he  visited  Mr.  Clifford,  he  would  not 
come  into  the  guest  house,  but  sat  outside,  upon  the 
doorstep,  for  fear  the  sight  of  his  face  and  hands  might 
offend  his  English  friend. 

Mr.  Clifford  showed  him  how  to  use  the  magic  lantern, 
which  pleased  them  all  very  much,  and  Father  Damien 
explained,  in  Hawaiian,  the  pictures,  which  represented 
scenes  in  the  life  of  Christ. 

Finally,  the  time  came  for  Mr.  Clifford  to  leave. 
This  is  his  own  description  of  his  last  view  of  .the  island. 

"  As  our  ship  weighed  anchor  the  somber  purple  cliffs 
were  crowned  with  white  clouds.  Down  their  sides 
leaped  the  cataracts.  The  little  village,  with  its  three 
churches  and  its  white  cottages,  lay  at  their  bases. 
Father  Damien  stood  with  his  people  on  the  rocks  till 
we  slowly  passed  from  their  sight.  The  sun  was  getting 
low  in  the  heavens,  the  beams  of  light  were  slanting 
down  the  mountain  sides,  and  then  I  saw  the  last  of 
Molokai  in  a  golden  veil  of  mist." 


172 

Father  Damien  died  a  few  months  after  this,  and  is 
buried  in  the  settlement  where  he  worked  so  faith- 
fully.    He  had  lived  long  enough  to  bring  about  great 


(Copyright,  1899,  hy  C.  C.  Langill.) 


View  of  Molokai 


changes  for  the  better,  and  he  will  always  be  remem- 
bered as  one  of  those  heroes  who  have  willingly  lived 
and  died  for  the  good  of  others. 


3j«<c 


XXX.     lOLANI   PALACE 

IN  one  of  her  walks  about  Honolulu  Alice  saw  a  large 
showy  building,  standing  on  a  lawn  set  with  gay 
flower-beds.  A  high  wall  was  built  around  the  grounds, 
and  there  was  a  soldier  standing  at  the  gate,  with  his 
musket  in  his  hand.  Mr.  Earle  said  that  this  building 
was  I-o-la'ni  Palace,  built  by  King  Kalakaua  in   1880. 


173 

His  sister,  Li-li'u-o-ka-la'ni,  had  also  lived  there  as 
queen.  Kalakaua  was  a  kind  man,  but  not  a  very  good 
king.  He  was  fond  of  pleasure,  and  glad  to  avoid 
trouble ;  and  being  advised  by  wicked  men  he  did  many 
things  that  were  not  right. 

After  he  had  been  king  for  seven  years  he  started  on 


lolani  Palace 


a  long  journey  around  the  world,  and  came  home  dis- 
satisfied with  his  own  kingdom,  which  he  wished  to 
make  like  the  great  countries  he  had  seen  across  the 
water.  He  wanted  soldiers  and  ships,  though  he  did 
not  need  them,  and  was  quite  discontented  because 
there  was  no  money  to  pay  for  all  the  things  he  longed 
to  possess. 


74 


It  was  not  the  custom  in  Hawaii  for  the  king  to 
wear  a  crown,  but  Kalakaua  now  sent  to  England  for 
crowns  for  himself  and  the  queen,  and  when  they 
arrived  in  Honolulu,  Kalakaua  and  Kapiolani  were 
crowned  in  a  little  pavilion  in  the  palace  grounds. 

Some  time  after  this  the  king  decided  to  visit  Cali- 
fornia for  his  health.     He  was  treated  everywhere  with 

the  greatest  kindness, 
but  his  health  contin- 
ued to  fail,  and  in  spite 
of  the  efforts  of  the 
best  doctors  to  save 
him  he  died  in  San 
Francisco  in  January, 
1 89 1,  two  months  after 
his  departure  from 
home.  His  body  was 
sent  back  to  his  own 
country  in  the  Charles- 
ton, an  American  war 
ship.  Just  about  this 
time  the  king  was  ex- 
pected home,  and  the  people  in  Honolulu  had  prepared 
to  give  him  a  royal  welcome.  Arches  covered  with 
vines  and  flowers  had  been  erected,  and  the  public 
buildings  were  bright  with  flags  and  garlands.  As  the 
ship  hove  in  sight  the  people  saw  the  flag  flying  at  half- 
mast,  and  soon  they  all  knew  that  their  king  was  dead. 
The  decorations  were  quickly  exchanged  for  mourning, 
and  the  king's  body  was  carried  to  the  palace,  and 
buried  in  the  royal  tomb. 


Kalakaua 


175 

As  the  king  had  no  children,  his  sister,  Liliuokalani, 
became  queen.  She  promised  to  obey  and  enforce  the 
laws,  and  it  was  hoped  that  she  would  make  a  good 
queen.  But  these  laws,  made  by  the  advice  of 
foreigners,  took  away  much  of  the  royal  power.     They 


Liliuokalani 


were  for  the  good  of  the  country,  but  Queen  Liliuoka- 
lani did  not  care  for  that.  She  was  jealous  of  the 
power  of  the  white  men,  and  thought  if  she  could  but 
get  rid  of  them  she  could  make  new  laws  to  suit  herself. 
Some  of  the  queen's  friends,  who  knew  what  was 
best  for  her,  tried  to  persuade  her  to  be  advised  by  wise 
men  who  understood  better  than  she  how  to  govern,  but 


1 76 

she  was  very  stubborn  and  insisted  on  having  her  own 
way.  At  last  the  people's  patience  gave  out.  A  num- 
ber of  men  called  the  "  Committee  of  Safety,"  banded 
together  to  save  the  country  from  the  queen's  bad 
influence,  and  since  she  showed  herself  unfit  to  govern, 
told  her  she  could  no  longer  be  queen. 

As  might  have  been  expected,  Liliuokalani  was  very 
angry,  and  prepared  to  resist  with  might  and  main. 
This  happened  in  the  year  1893.  It  was  a  trying  time, 
and  no  one  could  tell  how  it  would  end.  The  people  in 
Honolulu  were  asked  to  stay  quietly  at  home  and  help 
in  every  way  they  could  to  preserve  order.  The 
marines  came  ashore  from  the  American  ship,  the 
Boston,  to  protect  the  lives  and  property  of  the  Amer- 
icans living  in  Honolulu. 

Fortunately  there  was  no  fighting,  and  the  queen  and 
her  friends  were  not  harmed  in  any  way;  but  Liliuoka- 
lani was  forced  to  leave  the  palace  and  went  to  Wash- 
ington Villa,  the  house  where  she  had  lived  before  she 
was  made  queen.  Washington  Villa  was  not  far  from 
the  palace,  and  was  a  large  two-story  house  with  veran- 
das above  and  below.  Here  Liliuokalani  lived  with  her 
servants,  visited  by  her  friends,  and  driving  out  in  her 
carriage  whenever  she  pleased. 

At  this  time  many  people  thought  it  would  be  a  good 
plan  to  ask  the  United  States  to  govern  the  Islands; 
but  it  took  time  to  consider  whether  this  would  be  a 
good  thing  for  both  countries,  and  it  was  not  before  the 
summer  of  1898  that  the  Hawaiian  Islands  were  annexed 
to  the  United  States.  In  the  meantime,  the  people  in 
Hawaii  established  a  republican  form  of  government 


177 

and  chose  a  president,  Mr.  Sanford  B.  Dole,  who  had 
all  his  life  long  been  such  a  good  man  that  both  the 
white  people  and  the  Hawaiians  knew  that  they  could 
trust  him  with  such  responsible  duties. 

Liliuokalani  did  not  wish  the  Hawaiian  Islands  to  be 
governed  by  the  United  States,  and  she  by  no  means 


Washington  Villa 


gave  up  the  idea  of  again  becoming  queen.  While  she 
lived  at  Washington  Villa,  she  held  secret  meetings  in 
her  house,  and  bought  guns  and  swords,  powder  and 
shot,  which  were  buried  in  pits  upon  her  lawn.  She 
had  planned  to  arm  Hawaiian  soldiers  and  fight  in  the 
streets,  until  the  people  who  had  opposed  her  were  con- 
quered or  killed.     Then  she  thought  she  could  go  back 


KROUT'S   HAWAII 


12 


178 

to  the  palace,  and  the  white  men  and  their  families 
would  be  driven  from  the  Islands  and  never  permitted 
to  return.  She  forgot  that  many  of  them  had  been 
born  there  and  had  lived  there  all  their  lives,  and  that  it 
was  their  country  just  as  much  as  her  own. 

Her  plans  failed,  and  the  Hawaiians  who  tried  to 
fight  were  driven  into  the  mountains,  and  at  last  forced 
to  surrender.  Liliuokalani  was  taken  back  to  the 
palace,  not,  however,  as  queen,  but  as  a  prisoner.  She 
was  treated  with  more  kindness  than  she  seemed  to 
deserve,  for  the  rooms  that  she  had  before  occupied 
were  set  apart  for  her  use,  and  her  servants  were  allowed 
to  wait  upon  her,  and  she  could  walk  and  sit  in  the 
garden  as  often  as  she  pleased.  It  was  such  a  beauti- 
ful garden,  with  the  mountains  and  the  sea  near  at 
hand,  that  such  a  prison  could  not  have  been  very 
dismal. 

After  Hstening  with  much  interest  to  this  story,  Alice 
ascended  a  flight  of  broad  stone  steps  leading  to  the 
entrance,  which  opened  into  a  broad  hall.  Nothing 
had  been  changed.  The  large  rooms  were  very  plainly 
furnished,  Alice  thought,  for  a  palace.  The  flowered 
Brussels  carpets,  the  furniture  covered  with  chintz,  and 
the  chintz  curtains,  were  not  of  the  kind  she  thought  a 
queen  would  have  chosen.  In  one  broad,  long  apart- 
ment, two  large  chairs,  with  gilded  arms  and  backs, 
stood-  upon  a  low  dais  or  platform,  in  front  of  which 
curtains  of  crimson,  velvet  hung  from  the  ceiling.  This 
was  the  throne  where  the  king  and  queen  had  sat  on 
great  occasions,  splendidly  dressed  in  silk  and  velvet 
and  costly  jewels. 


179 

Upon  the  walls,  framed  like  pictures,  were  medals 
and  ribbons.  These  were  the  ''orders'*  (badges  worn 
by  people  of  high  rank)  which  had  been  given  King 
Kalakaua  by  other  kings  and  queens  throughout  the 
world. 

There  were  also  portraits  of  the  old  Hawaiian  rulers, 
which  had  been  painted  by  artists  who  visited  Hawaii, 
or  by  great  painters  in  England. 

Alice  thought  Kamehameha  the  Great  the  most  inter- 
esting of  the  kings,  and  Queen  Emma  the  most  beauti- 
ful of  the  queens.  The  great  king's  portrait  was  that 
of  a  dark-skinned  old  man,  with  short,  snow-white  hair 
and  dark,  piercing  eyes.  Over  his  shoulders  he  wore  a 
yellow  feather  mantle.  Queen  Emma  had  a  very  sweet 
and  amiable  expression.  She  was  the  wife  of  Kame- 
hameha IV.  She  never  reigned  herself,  although  the 
Hawaiian s  wanted  her  for  their  ruler  at  the  time  when 
Kalakaua  was  chosen  king. 

In  a  little  cabinet  in  one  of  the  rooms  were  collected 
a  great  many  curious  toys  and  tools.  These  were  made 
of  wood,  or  bone,  or  stone,  by  the  early  Hawaiians,  and 
are  now  no  longer  used.  There  were  calabashes,  deep, 
polished  bowls  for  holding  food  and  water.  And  there 
were  the  large  wooden  platters  used  to  serve  roast  dog, 
—  a  dish  which  the  Hawaiians  considered  a  great  deli- 
cacy. The  dogs  thus  served  were  small,  and  had  been 
fed  on  clean,  wholesome  food  like  taro  and  sweet 
potato. 

Among  the  most  curious  things  to  be  seen  in  the 
palace  were  the  beautiful  feather  mantles.  These  were 
carefully   locked   away   in   chests.     Each   mantle   wa^ 


i8o 

smoothly  rolled  around  a  long,  wooden  staff.  When 
shaken  out  it  looked  almost  like  the  plumage  of  some 
large  bird.  With  the  mantles  they  saw  a  number 
of  staffs  that  looked  like  great  feather  dust  brushes. 
They  were  made  of  many  kinds  of  feathers,  —  yel- 
low, black,  white,  and  red,  —  and  their  handles,  which 
were  six  or  eight  feet  long,  were  of  polished  wood  with 
bands  of  tortoise  shell  or  bone.  They  were  always 
carried  in  the  procession,  when  the  king  and  queen 
passed  through  the  streets  of  Honolulu  in  state,  or 
were  placed  about  their  thrones,  and  about  their 
coffins  when  they  died. 


XXXI.     KAPIOLANI 

AS  they  drove  back  and  forth  to  Waikiki,  Alice  had 
noticed  a  pretty  place,  quite  near  the  sea.  Above 
the  gate  was  a  notice  in  Hawaiian  letters,  ^^  Kapiif* 
This  meant,  "No  Admittance."  Alice  would  have  liked 
very  much  to  walk  about  the  shady  grounds,  which, 
although  they  were  not  so  neat  and  trim  as  other 
gardens  she  had  seen,  looked  cool  and  pleasant.  Man- 
goes and  algarobas  grew  everywhere,  and  rows  of  tall, 
stately  palms  bordered  the  graveled  drive.  She  never 
passed  the  gate  without  longing  to  go  in,  but  the  word 
of  warning  always  stared  her  in  the  face. 

One  day  her  mother  told  her  that  they  had  an  invi- 
tation to  call  upon  Kapiolani,  who  had  been  the  wife 


i8i 


of  King  Kalakaua,  and  was  called  the  queen  dowager. 
Alice  was  delighted  when  she  learned  that  Kapiolani 
lived  in  the  pretty  place  that  she  longed  to  visit. 

They  started  at  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
A  Hawaiian  lady  went  with  them  to  introduce  them 
to  Kapiolani,  and  to  translate  what  Kapiolani  said,  for 
although  she  understood  English  she  could  not  speak  it. 


Home  of  Kapiolani 


Everybody  liked  Queen  Kapiolani.  She  had  al- 
ways been  good  and  kind,  especially  to  the  sick  and 
poor.  She  was  friendly  to  Americans,  too,  at  a  time 
when  few  of  the  Hawaiians  were  on  good  terms  with 
them. 

Alice  could  hardly  believe  that  her  wish  had  come 
'  true,  even  as  they  drove  through  the  gate,  under  the 
palm  trees,  up  to  the  door. 

The  house  was  not  like  any  that  she  had  ever  seen 


l82 

The  front  was  covered  with  latticework,  and  two  flights 
of  steps,  on  opposite  sides  of  a  little  open  balcony,  led 
to  the  .front  door.  There  was  another  door,  beneath 
the  balcony,  which  opened  into  rooms  on  the  ground 
floor.  Alice  did  not  notice  any  windows  in  the  front 
of  the  house. 

The  door  to  the  main  entrance  stood  open,  and 
they  went  up  the  steps  into  the  drawing-room.  There 
was  no  bell,  and  no  one  came  to  meet  them,  but 
the  Hawaiian  lady  told  them  that  this  was  not  neces- 
sary. They  sat  down  and  waited  for  Kapiolani  to 
appear. 

The  drawing-room  was  large  and  airy,  and  curiously 
furnished.  The  carpet  was  of  a  bright  color  decorated 
with  roses.  The  furniture  was  plain  and  old-fashioned. 
Vases  filled  with  flowers  stood  about,  not  upon  the  tables 
and  mantels,  but  upon  the  floor,  in  corners  where  they 
could  not  be  upset. 

Upon  a  table  in  the  center  of  the  floor  was  a  marble 
bust  of  King  Kalakaua,  and  there  were  many  pictures 
of  him  on  the  walls.  Near  the  table  was  a  tall  staff 
made  of  colored  feathers,  with  a  long  handle  of  wood, 
like  those  Alice  had  seen  when  she  visited  the  palace. 
This  was  placed  beside  the  bust,  because  Kalakaua  had 
been  king. 

At  the  doors  were  hangings  of  rich  silk  which,  no 
doubt,  the  king  had  brought  home  from  India,  when 
he  made  his  long  journey  around  the  world.  There 
were  other  hangings,  which,  Hke  the  curtains,  were  of 
plain  chintz. 

Alice  had  never  seen  a  queen  before,  and  she  did 


183 


not  know  just  how  to  act.  She  saw  that  her  mother 
was  not  at  all  embarrassed,  but  was  very  calm  and  self- 
possessed  ;  just  as  she  would  have  been  in  calling  upon 
a  friend  in  Chicago.  So  she  thought  that  this  must 
be  proper,  and  she,  also,  sat  very  quiet  and  waited  for 
Kapiolani  to  come. 

They  could  hear  a  great  deal  of  talking  and  laughing 
somewhere  about  the  house.  Presently  they  looked  up 
and  saw  a  tall,  dark 
woman  standing  in  a 
doorway  which  led  to 
an  outer  room.  She 
paused  a  moment,  as 
if  somewhat  shy. 
Then  she  smiled  very 
pleasantly,  and  held 
out  her  hand,  just  as 
any  other  well-bred 
woman  might  have 
done.  She  told  them, 
in  Hawaiian,  that  she 
was  very  glad  to  see 
them. 

She  did  not  look  like  a  queen,  according  to  Alice's 
idea.  She  was  very  tall  indeed,  and  strong  and  power- 
ful, but  not  so  stout  as  many  Hawaiian  women  that 
Alice  had  met.  Her  skin  and  eyes  were  quite  dark, 
but  her  teeth  were  white  and  even.  Her  hair  was  jet 
black  and  was  worn  in  a  large  thick  coil  on  the  top  of 
her  head.  She  wore  a  holoku  of  stiff,  black  silk,  and 
a  brooch,  set  round  with  pearls,  in  which  was  a  portrait 


'"tkl-'^^'.'K. 


1 84 

of  her  husband.  After  shaking  hands  with  them  all, 
she  patted  Alice  gently  on  the  cheek.  Then  several 
Hawaiian  ladies  who  lived  with  Kapiolani  came  into  the 
drawing-room.  They,  also,  wore  holokus,  but  theirs 
were  of  bright-colored  silk. 

Alice  noticed,  too,  that  the  queen  wore  a  wreath  of 
yellow  feathers,  which  was  like  those  she  had  seen  at 
the  palace.  These  are  still  worn  by  princesses  and 
chiefs  of  high  rank.  None  of  the  ladies  wore  the 
feather  wreaths ;  theirs  were  made  of  flowers,  and  they 
also  wore  flowers  in  their  hair. 

It  was  quite  warm,  and  Kapiolani  asked  one  of 
the  ladies  to  get  a  fan  for  Mrs.  Earle  and  one  for 
Alice,  and  she,  too,  sat  fanning  herself.  The  fans 
were  of  braided  grass,  like  the  mats  that  Alice  had 
seen. 

Kapiolani  was  very  good-natured.  She  asked  Mrs. 
Earle  a  great  many  questions,  which  their  Hawaiian 
friend  translated'  into  English.  She  had  visited  the 
United  States  and  England  once,  and  had  been  kindly 
received  everywhere.  She  liked  America,  she  said,  and 
hoped,  some  day,  to  visit  it  again.  Mrs.  Earle  had  told 
Alice  about  the  visit  to  England,  where  Kapiolani  was 
the  guest  of  Queen  Victoria,  who  gave  her  fine  apart- 
ments to  live  in,  with  a  sentinel  in  uniform  to  stand 
outside  the  door.  The  queen  also  put  her  own  splendid 
carriages  at  the  disposal  of  Kapiolani  during  her  stay 
in  London. 

When  Mrs.  Earle  told  Kapiolani  how  beautiful  she 
thought  the  Hawaiian  Islands  were,  and  how  much 
she  had  been  charmed  with  the  clean  city,  the  gardens, 


i85 


and  the  excellent  schools,  Kapiolani  smiled  approvingly 
and  seemed  much  pleased. 

A  pretty  picture  of  Princess  Kaiulani  hung  upon  the 
wall.  It  had  always  been  expected  that  she  would  be 
the  next  queen  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  She  was  at 
this  time  studying  in  England,  and  Kapiolani,  who 
loved  her  very  dearly,  hoped  that  she  would  soon  return  ; 
for  she  thought  she 
would  be  happier  in  her 
own  sunny  land.  She 
did  not  foresee  how 
short  a  time  the  princess 
was  to  spend  in  Hawaii, 
for  Kaiulani  died  very 
soon  after  her  return,  in 
1899. 

When  they  rose  to  go, 
the  queen  also  rose  and 
shook  hands  with  them, 
and  said  ''  Aloha  !  " 

As  they  drove  back  to 
the  city  Mrs.  Earle  told 
Alice  that,  although  Kalakaua  had  been  an  unpopular 
king,  Kapiolani  had  always  been  much  respected  and 
beloved.  She  was  dignified  and  polite,  and  all  spoke 
well  of  her.  She  had  never  had  any  children,  and 
this  was  why  Liliuokalani,  the  king's  sister,  was  made 
queen  after  Kalakaua  died. 

Kapiolani  was  named  after  the  chief  who  ate  the  ohelo 
berries,  and  went  down  into  the  crater  of  Kilauea  to 
prove  to  the  people  that  there  was  no  such  spirit  as  Pele. 


Kaiulani 


1 86 


XXXII.     AN    OSTRICH    FARM 

ALICE  had  often  seen  ostriches,  in  parks  and  in 
zoological  gardens,  but  she  had  never  seen  them 
walking  about  in  the  fields. 

She  knew  that  they  came  from  Africa,  and  that  in 
the  southern  part  of  Africa  they  are  now  raised  on 
farms,  just  as  we  raise  horses  and  cattle  in  our  country. 

They  were  trying  to  raise  ostriches  in  the  Hawaiian 
Islands,  and  there  was  a  farm  out  in  the  country,  not 
far  from  Diamond  Head,  which  Alice  visited.  It 
takes  a  great  deal  of  time  and  patience  to  raise  young 
ostriches  in  foreign  lands,  although  in  their  native 
countries  the  young  birds  are  left  very  much  to  them- 
selves. 

The  ostrich  farmer  lived  in  a  neat  white  house,  in 
a  grove  of  algaroba  trees,  and  he  was  quite  willing  to 
show  the  party  about. 

The  paddock  in  which  the  young  ostriches  were 
kept  was  green  and  grassy,  and  there  was  plenty  of 
shade.  Alice  wondered  why  such  a  place  as  this  had 
been  chosen,  for  she  knew  that  wild  ostriches  in  Africa 
live  on  the  desert,  where  there  is  no  *  shade.  Mr. 
Earle  told  her  that  almost  all  animals  change  their 
habits  a  little  when  they  are  taken  from  their  native 
country.  It  is  never  possible  to  get  quite  the  same  kind 
of  food  for  them  that  they  have  been  accustomed  to 
eat;  and  they  have  to  adapt  themselves  to  a  different 
climate.  There  are  many  animals  that  cannot  live  in 
any   country   but    their    own ;    while   others,  like  cats 


i87 

and  dogs  and  fowls,  can  live  in  almost  any  part  of 
the  world.  The  ostrich  usually  thrives  well  wherever 
the  climate  is  warm  enough,  and  where  there  is  not  too 
much  rain. 

The  young  birds  stood  under  the  trees  near  the  fence, 
and  Alice  looked  at  them  as  closely  as  she  dared.  They 
did  not  seem  very  good-tempered,  and  she  was  afraid  to 
go  too  close  to  them.     The  chicks  were  covered  all  over 


Young  Ostriches 

by  a  light-colored,  spiny  down.  When  two  months 
old  the  birds  begin  to  resemble  the  mother  bird.  The 
body  is  covered  with  brownish-gray  feathers,  while  the 
head,  neck,  and  legs  are  almost  naked.  At  three  years 
of  age  they  assume  their  full  plumage.  The  male  bird 
then  has  glossy  black  feathers  on  the  body  and  long, 
white  feathers  on  the  tail  and  wing.  These  white 
feathers  are  of  the  greatest  value. 

The  long  neck  much  resembles  that  of  the  camel  in 


i88 

shape.  The  legs  are  long  and  there  are  two  toes  on 
each  foot.  The  longer  toe  has  a  strong  claw.  The 
feet  are  padded  beneath,  so  that  the  ostrich  can  travel 
quickly  over  the  sand.  The  large  eyes  are  a  soft 
brown,  like  the  eyes  of  a  cow,  and  the  head  is 
flattened. 

The  ostrich  defends  itself  with  its  sharp  claws,  and  an 
old  bird  can  dangerously  wound  and  even  kill  a  man 
with  one  blow.  The  ostrich  in  the  desert  runs  very 
swiftly,  and  a  hunter  on  a  fast  horse  can  hardly  over- 
take him. 

As  Alice  and  her  father  stood  looking  at  the  ostriches, 
they  stretched  their  necks  over  the  fence,  to  get  a  better 
view  of  their  visitors.  They  yawned  often,  as  if  they 
were  sleepy.  It  was  a  very  warm  day,  and  the  young 
ostriches  tried  to  fan  themselves  with  their  little  wings 
as  they  walked  away. 

The  farmer  said  that  he  fed  them  on  cabbage,  a  little 
grain,  and  on  alfalfa,  which  is  a  kind  of  grass  that  is 
good  food  for  horses  and  cattle. 

The  eggs  were  hatched  in  an  incubator,  though  the 
mother  bird  sat  on  the  nest  until  the  eggs  were  taken  from 
her.  Whenever  she  left  the  nest  the  male  bird  came  to 
sit  on  it  and  to  guard  it  with  jealous  care.  When  they 
are  not  sitting  on  the  nest,  the  old  birds  are  suspicious 
and  uneasy.     They  never  leave  the  nest  for  very  long. 

The  ostrich  lays  about  thirty  eggs  in  one  nest;  but 
the  farmer  said  that,  even  with  the  greatest  care,  but 
few  of  these  eggs  are  hatched.  The  feathers  of  the 
bird  are  not  of  much  value  until  it  is  eighteen  months 
old.     Old  ostriches  are  worth  a  great  deal  more  than 


i89 

ordinary  horses.  They  cost  from  seven  hundred  to 
eight  hundred  dollars  each.  The  young  birds,  when 
full-grown,  are  worth  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars 
apiece,  if  they  are  in  good  condition. 

The  ostrich  farmer  told  them  that  he  had  to  be  care- 
ful of  the  young  birds,  as  they  were  very  tender.  They 
had  to  be  kept  dry  and  warm,  and  the  least  over- 
feeding would  be  apt  to  kill  them. 

Alice  told  the  ostrich  farmer  that  she  had  read  some- 
where that  the  ostrich  could  eat  anything,  —  scraps 
of  iron  and  bits  of  glass,  which,  it  was  stated,  agreed 
with  it.  The  man  laughed,  and  said  that  this  was  not 
true.  They  do  pick  up  small  pieces  of  metal,  now 
and  then,  and,  like  all  birds,  they  require  gravel  to  help 
them  digest  their  food ;  but  they  have  to  be  fed  very 
carefully. 

When  the  farmer  goes  out  after  dark  to  steal  the 
eggs,  he  takes  with  him  a  short,  forked  stick.  With 
this  he  keeps  the  old  birds  at  a  distance,  for  it  makes 
them  very  angry  to  see  their  nests  disturbed.  He 
pushes  one  of  the  birds  away  by  holding  the  neck  in 
the  fork  of  the  stick.  This  frightens  both  the  ostrich 
that  is  caught  in  the  fork  of  the  stick  and  its  mate,  so 
that  they  run  away  as  fast  as  they  can. 

The  incubator,  in  which  the  eggs  are  hatched,  looks 
very  much  like  a  kerosene  stove,  and  it  is  heated  with 
kerosene  lamps.  The  eggs  must  be  kept  very  warm, 
and  they  must  be  turned  four  times  a  day,  and  four 
times  during  the  night.  They  do  not  hatch  for  six 
weeks,  and  the  ostrich  farmer,  who  must  get  up  four 
times  during  the  night,  unless  he  has  some  one  to  help 


I90 

him,  is  very  glad  when  the  young  birds  come  out  of  the 
shell.  When  the  old  bird  hears  the  chirp  of  the  young 
ostrich,  she  knows  that  it  is  time  for  it  to  hatch,  and 
she  helps  it  break  the  thick  shell  by  striking  it  with  her 
breastbone.  When  the  eggs  are  hatched  in  an  incuba- 
tor, at  the  end  of  the  six  weeks  the  ostrich  farmer 
listens  very  carefully,  every  day,  and  when  he  hears  the 


Old  Ostriches 

young  birds,  he  breaks  the  shell  with  a  small,  sharp 
instrument. 

When  the  birds  are  hatched  they  are  placed  in  a  box 
which  is  kept  warm,  and  always  at  the  same  tempera- 
ture. Long,  soft,  woolen  strings  are  hung  from  the 
roof  of  the  box,  to  serve  instead  of  the  old  bird's  plu- 
mage, which  protects  her  young  when  she  gathers  them 
under  her  wings. 

The  old  birds  were  in  paddocks  by  themselves. 
When  Mr.  Earle  asked  to  see  them,  the  ostrich  farmer 
whistled,  and  they  came  trotting  to  him,  no  doubt  expect- 


191 

ing  to  be  fed.  Some  of  them  were  seven  feet  tall.  A 
lane,  not  more  than  two  yards  wide,  leading  from  the 
paddocks,  had  been  inclosed  by  a  high  fence ;  and  in 
this  lane  the  old  birds  walked  up  and  down. 

One  of  the  old  ostriches,  named  "Jumbo,"  was  strong 
and  fierce  and  was  kept  by  himself;  but  he  did  not 
seem  to  object  to  this.  He  was  probably  very  proud 
that  the  other  birds  were  so  much  afraid  of  him.  Alice 
had  read  somewhere  that  the  ostrich  was  a  timid,  gentle 
bird.  The  farmer  said  that  this  might  be  true  of  some 
ostriches,  but  that  old  birds,  like  Jumbo,  were  very 
savage ;  they  could  never  be  tamed,  and  it  was  not  safe 
for  strangers  to  go  near  them. 

As  he  said  this.  Jumbo  c^me  slowly  up  to  the  fence 
in  the  little  lane,  and  stretching  his  long  furry  neck 
over  the  palings,  eyed  Alice  very  savagely  indeed.  He 
seemed  to  be  saying,  "  If  I  could  only  get  a  chance  at 
that  hat  of  yours,  there  would  not  be  much  of  it  left." 
Alice  was  glad  that  the  fence  was  strong  and  high. 


3i*i< 


XXXHI.    HAWAHAN    SCHOOLS 

A  FEW  days  before  they  were  to  sail  for  San  Fran- 
cisco, Alice  went  with  her  mother  and  father  to 
visit  the  schools  in  Honolulu.  Before  she  came  to  the 
Hawaiian  Islands  Alice  had  an  idea  that  only  the  white 
people  living  there  could  read  and  write.  She  was 
much  surprised,  therefore,  to  learn  that,  in  proportion  to 


192 

the  number  of  people,  there  were  more  who  could  read 
in  Hawaii  than  in  Illinois. 

The  missionaries  from  New  England,  on  their  very  first 
visit  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  had  started  schools  and 
begun  at  once  to  teach  the  people  to  read.  Alice  knew 
how  anxious  the  Hawaiians  were  to  learn.  Young  and 
old  alike  had  been  eager  to  attend  the  mission  schools. 
There  are  now  in  the  Islands  many  pubHc  schools  like 
our  own;  with  the  same  sort  of  books,  desks,  and 
blackboards,  and  with  good  teachers,  many  of  whom 
have  been  taught  in  the  United  States.  These  schools, 
very  different  from  those  first  held  in  grass  huts,  are 
now  found  not  only  in  Honolulu  and  in  the  villages 
throughout  the  Islands,  but  also  in  the  country  near  the 
plantations. 

By  the  time  the  missionaries  had  been  in  Honolulu 
twelve  years,  a  good  many  other  American  and  English 
people  had  settled  in  Hawaii. 

In  1832  a  subscription  was  taken  for  the  erection  of 
a  schoolhouse  for  the  English-speaking  children  living 
in  the  Islands.  The  captains  of  the  ships  in  the  harbor 
contributed  liberally,  and  in  1833  a  neat  brick  building 
was  erected,  and  the  school  was  opened  under  the  name 
of  the  "  Oahu  Charity  School." 

A  few  years  later  a  boarding  school  for  girls  was 
established  in  Wailuku,  and  a  manual  training  school 
for  Hawaiian  boys  in  Hilo.  In  addition  to  the  common 
studies  the  boys  of  this  school  were  taught  to  work  in 
the  garden,  and  to  use  tools. 

Some  years  after  this,  another  school  was  founded, 
which  at  first  was  attended  only  by  the  children  of  the 


193 

missionaries,  but   later   by  Hawaiian   children  as  well. 
This  school  is  now  Oahu  College. 

There  were  good  schools  in  Honolulu  long  before 
there  were  any  in  California,  and  when  California  began 
to  be  settled  by  Americans,  the  people  who  could  afford 


Hedge  of  Night-blooming  Ucr-rJo 

to  do  so  sent  their  children  down  to  Honolulu  to  attend 
the  missionary  schools. 

Alice  visited  the  college  first.  The  large  buildings 
stand  in  beautiful  grounds  shaded  with  mango  and 
algaroba  trees,  and  the  lawns  are  very  green  and  closely 
clipped.  Near  the  road  is  a  long  hedge  of  a  kind  of 
cactus,  a  prickly  plant  that  grows  in  hot  countries  in 
dry,  sandy  soil.     It  is  called  the  night-blooming  cereus. 

KROUT's   HAWAII —  13 


194 


It  opens  very  slowly  in  the  night  and  is  pure  white,  and 
very  fragrant.  When  the  hedge  along  the  college  lawn 
was  in  bloom  it  was  covered  with  the  large  white  flowers, 
thousands  blooming  at  once. 

Women  were  admitted  to  the  Oahu  College  from  the 
very  start,  for  the  missionaries  believed  in  giving  men 
and  women  the  same  advantages  of  education. 

One  of  the  founders 
of  the  college  was  the 
Rev.  Daniel  Dole,  father 
of  Sanford  B.  Dole,  the 
president  of  the  Republic 
of  Hawaii.  This  school 
was  at  first  called  "  Pu-na- 
ho'u"  or  "new  spring," 
from  a  fine  large  spring 
near  by.  There  was  a  su- 
perstition connected  with 
this  spring  that  if  any  one 
about  to  leave  Hawaii 
should  drink  from  it,  he 
would  be  sure  to  return 
some  day. 
When  the  school  was  opened,  the  pupils  paid  but  fifty 
cents  a  week  for  food,  lodging,  and  instruction. 

The  first  building  was  of  adobe  or  sun-dried  bricks, 
one  story  high,  with  a  thatched  roof.  Now,  there  are 
several  buildings  of  brick  and  stone,  a  library  and  recita- 
tion rooms,  and  near  the  college  there  are  pretty  houses 
for  the  president  and  the  teachers.  The  teachers  and 
pupils  all  eat  together  in  the  same  dining  hall,  boys  and 


President  Dole 


195 

girls,   Hawaiians    and    Americans,  and   they   are   very 
industrious  and  happy. 

Besides  the  government  schools,  or  public  schools,  a 
seminary  was  opened  in  Honolulu  for  Hawaiian  girls. 
This,  too,  was  a  pretty  place,  and  the  girls  were  very 
happy  and  contented.  They  came  into  the  chapel  with 
wreaths  around  their  necks  and  flowers  in  their  hair. 


Schoolbov 


They  were  neatly  dressed,  and  they  sang,  in  their  own 
language,  a  very  sweet  but  mournful  song.  Alice  never 
heard  a  Hawaiian  song  that  did  not  sound  sad.  She 
could  not  understand  this,  for  the  Hawaiians  are  always 
smiling,  and  nothing  seems  to  trouble  them. 

Several  miles  out  of  the  city  there  is  a  school  for 
boys,  called  the  Kamehameha  School.  Besides  recita- 
tion rooms  and  laboratories  in  the  large  building,  there 
are  machine  shops  with   forges  and  lathes,  a  printing 


196 

office,  and  a  farm  where  the  pupils  are  taught  to  work 
when  they  are  not  studying  or  reciting  their  lessons. 
The  boys  also  have  a  military  company  and  are  drilled 
like  soldiers.  They  look  very  handsome  in  their  neat 
uniforms.  The  money  to  buy  the  land,  to  put  up  the 
buildings,    and   to   pay   the   teachers   was   given  by  a 


Kamehameha  School 

Hawaiian  princess,  Bernice  Pau-a'hi,  who  married  an 
American  banker.  She  might  have  been  queen,  but 
she  preferred  to  live  quietly  in  her  own  home.  Prin- 
cess Pauahi  had  no  children,  and  she  left  almost 
all  her  large  fortune  for  the  education  of  Hawaiian 
children. 

Near  the  college  is  a  museum,  also  her  gift.     It  is 
well    arranged,    and    here     are    kept    tools,    utensils, 


197 

weapons,  mats,  fans,  and  tapa  —  the  things  the 
Hawaiians  used  to  make.  As  they  do  very  little  of 
this  work  now,  these  articles  are  carefully  preserved 
that  people  may  know  what  they  were  like.  There 
are  also  stuffed  birds  and  fishes.  Alice  saw,  among 
other  things,  the  bird  from  whose  plumage  the  feather 
mantles  were  made. 

The  Hawaiian  children  are  very  good  in  school. 
They  are  gentle,  obedient,  and  respectful  to  their 
teachers.  They  read  and  spell  well,  and  they  write 
beautifully;  but  most  of  them  find  difficulty  with 
arithmetic. 


XXXIV.     THE   CHINESE   AND  THEIR 
SCHOOLS 

IN  Honolulu  there  are  a  great  many  Chinese.  They 
not  only  work  on  the  plantations  and  in  their  gar- 
dens, raising  fruits  and  vegetables,  but  they  keep  shops. 
Some  of  these  shops  are  small,  and  nothing  is  sold 
there  but  cheap  clothing  and  all  the  queer  kinds  of 
food  that  the  Chinese  like.  Others  are  large  and  filled 
with  beautiful  things  that  have  been  brought  from 
China,  —  silks  and  crepes;  carved  boxes  of  ivory  and 
sandalwood ;  and  fans  of  embroidered  silk  or  beautiful 
feathers. 

The  families  of  the  rich  merchants  live  in  rooms  over 
the  shops.  Their  wives  wear  rich  silk  clothing.  Their 
feet,  upon  which  they  wear  tiny  shoes  embroidered  in 


198 

silk  and  gold  thread,  are  only  a  few  inches  in  length, 
They  do  not  walk  well,  but  totter  as  if  about  to  fall. 
When  they  were  very  small  their  feet  were  wound  in 
tight  bandages  so  that  they  could  not  grow.  It  is  an 
extremely  painful  process,  but  among  the  rich  and  edu- 


Chinese  Woman  with  Small  Feet 


cated  people  in  China  a  woman  with  large  feet  is  not 
respected. 

Alice  did  not  see  in  Honolulu  any  little  Chinese  girls 
whose  feet  had  been  bandaged.  She  thought  that  the 
American  teachers  must  have  persuaded  their  parents 
to  let  their  feet  grow,  so  that  they  might  walk  about, 
and  run  and  play  like  other  children. 


199 

One  day  Alice  went  to  visit  a  large  boarding  school 
for  Chinese  boys  kept  by  a  missionary.  The  mission- 
ary's wife  was  a  beautiful  woman,  born  in  Canton,  of 
American  parents.  She  spoke  Chinese  as  well  as 
English,  although  Chinese  is  a  very  hard  language  to 


Chinese  Boarding  School 


learn.  There  are  many  thousands  of  words  that  must 
be  committed  to  memory,  because  there  is  a  separate 
character  in  Chinese  for  every  word. 

When  Alice  and  her  mother  went  into  the  room 
where  forty  or  fifty  boys  were  studying  under  a  Chinese 
teacher,  the  pupils  rose  and  bade  them  good  morning 
in  chorus.     They  did  the  same  when  the  visitors  left. 


200 

The  teacher  was  an  odd-looking  old  Chinaman,  dressed 
in  Chinese  clothes,  with  a  black  cap  on  his  head.  He 
wore  large  spectacles  of  a  kind  that  Alice  had  never 
seen  before.  He  was  very  grave  and  polite.  He  spoke 
English,  and  told  them  that  some  of  his  pupils  had  come 
from  China  only  a  few  months  before. 

The  children's  books  were  printed  in  Chinese,  and 
what  seemed  to  Alice  like  a  crooked,,  dotted  letter,  was 
really  several  words.  One  boy,  about  twelve  years  old, 
showed  Mrs.  Earle  his  book,  and  told  her  that  he  was 
studying  about   animals. 

It  was  very  noisy  in  the  school.  The  pupils  all  studied 
aloud,  with  voices  pitched  in  many  keys,  and  it  sounded 
like  a  strange  kind  of  singing.  The  children  must  be 
very  careful  how  they  pitch  their  voices,  for  a  word  in 
one  key  means  one  thing,  and  the  same  word  in  a 
different  key  means  something  else.  The  teacher 
listened  closely  all  the  time,  and  whenever  he  heard  a 
wrong  tone  he  corrected  the  pupils. 

Boys  in  China  are  taught  to  pay  the  highest  respect 
to  their  parents  and  teachers. 

While  the  boys  at  their  desks  were  chanting  their 
lessons,  one  at  a  time  was  called  up  to  recite.  Each 
boy  came  to  the  teacher's  desk,  and  stood  with  his  back 
to  the  teacher.  The  teacher  did  not  ask  any  questions, 
but  the  pupil  recited  what  he  had  learned  by  heart. 
Chinese  pupils  spend  a  great  deal  of  time  learning 
words  of  which  they  do  not  know  the  meaning.  They 
are  taught  the  meaning  later. 

Alice  also  visited  the  Chinese  kindergarten,  where  she 
thought   the   little   boys   and   girls   very   pretty.     The 


20I 


schoolroom  was  pleasant  and  sunny  and  Alice  did  not 
wonder  that  the  children  like  to  go  to  school.  Through 
the  open  doors  and  windows  she  could  hear  the  breeze 
stirring  in  the  palm  trees.  The  walls  were  covered 
with  pretty  pictures,  and  there  were  little  tables  at 
which  the  children  sat,  cut- 
ting paper  for  baskets,  and 
molding  figures  in  clay. 
They  showed  by  their 
happy  faces  how  much 
they  enjoyed  this  work. 

The  children  wore  little 
trousers  and  jackets  of 
green,  pink,  blue,  or  brown 
dotted  with  large  yellow 
dots.  Their  queues  were 
lengthened  with  pink  cord 
which  was  braided  in  with 
the  hair.  Several  wore 
anklets  and  bracelets  of 
metal. 

When  Alice  entered, 
they  were  playing  a  game 
with    a   ball.      One    child 

stood  in  the  center  with  a  ball  in  her  hand,  while  the 
other  children  moved  round  her  in  a  circle,  singing. 
Presently  she  chose  a  boy  to  whom  she  gave  the  ball, 
and  he  took  her  place  in  the  circle,  and  gave  the  ball 
to  another  child.  He  bowed  and  shook  hands  with 
the  child  to  whom  he  gave  the  ball.  They  sang  very 
sweetly,  because  they  had  been  taught  when  they  were 


Chinese  Girl 


202 

young,  and  before  their  voices  were  spoiled.  The  Chi- 
nese have  naturally  thin,  high  voices,  and  their  music  is 
very  harsh. 

On  their  way  home  they  passed  a  Chinese  temple 
and  saw  the  people  bowing  before  the  figures  of  their 
gods,  which  were  very  hideous.  Children  played  upon 
the  steps,  and  ran  in  and  out,  but  they  did  not  disturb 
the  priests,  and  nobody  chased  them  away.  A  little 
girl  went  into  the  temple  carrying  a  baby  on  her  back. 
It  was  crying  with  all  its  might,  but  no  one  paid  any 
attention  to  it.  Alice  wanted  to  loosen  the  tight  scarf 
by  which  the  baby  was  carried,  which  she  thought  must 
hurt  it  very  much.  But  she  did  not  dare  to  ask  the 
little  girl  if  she  might. 

When  Alice  reached  home  she  said  that  she  had 
learned  from  this  interesting  visit  many  things  about 
the  Chinese  that  she  was  glad  to  know. 

XXXV.     GOOD-BY 

AFTER  she  had  spent  three  delightful  months  in 
Hawaii,  the  time  came  for  AHce  to  say  "good-by." 
She  felt  very  sad  at  the  thought  of  leaving,  and  al- 
though she  was  anxious  to  see  her  friends  in  Chicago, 
she  almost  wished  she  could  stay  forever  in  these  beau* 
tiful  Islands.  She  dreaded  the  thought  of  the  cold  and 
the  snow,  of  the  dark,  wet  autumn  days  and  the  raw 
winds  of  March. 

They  went  for  their  last  drive  on  Punchbowl ;  along 
Nuuanu  Avenue,  past  the  tiny  gardens,  surrounded  by 


203 

gray  stone  walls,  where  the  old  Hawaiians  had  once 
raised  their  crops  of  taro. 

As  Alice  looked  down  upon  the  city,  with  its  roofs 
among  the  palms  and  mango  trees,  she  wondered  if  she 
should  ever  see  Honolulu  again.  The  thought  that  this 
might  be  her  last  view  of  the  city  made  her  very  sad 
indeed. 

Her  little  friends  came  to  bid  her  good-by,  and 
brought  her  presents  as  remembrances.  There  were 
fans  of  woven  grass,  tied  with  red  and  blue  ribbons ;  an 
odd  Chinese  switch  made  of  horsehair;  and  three  or 
four  queer  Chinese  dolls,  made  of  wood,  dressed  in  silk 
and  tinsel,  like  little  Chinese  women. 

When  their  trunks  were  packed  and  the  steamer 
rugs  and  chairs  were  ready  to  send  to  the  dock,  Alice 
walked  about  the  hotel  and  remembered  how  pretty  it 
looked  the  day  they  arrived,  when  the  vines  that  cov- 
ered the  algaroba  trees  were  in  bloom.  Now  the 
flowers  were  nearly  all  gone,  but  the  gray,  gnarled 
trees  along  the  avenue  were  covered  with  great  clusters 
of  blossoms  that  were  even  brighter  than  the  vines. 

She  looked  for  the  last  time  at  the  natives,  who  sat  ^t 
the  door  of  the  hotel  with  their  baskets  of  bouquets  and 
heaps  of  leis,  their  taro  suspended  from  poles,  or  their 
stock  of  beautiful  polished  walking  sticks.  These  men 
are  very  humble  and  do  not  tease  any  one  to  buy. 
They  simply  hold  out  their  wares  to  be  looked  at,  and 
if  any  one  buys  of  them,  they  ^re  grateful  and  bow 
and  smile  with  pleasure. 

The  ship  in  which  Alice  was  to  sail  for  home  was 
the  Attstralia,     It  was  not  quite  so  large  as  the  Maru 


204 

posa,  but  it  had  an  upper  deck,  where  Mr.  Earle 
thought  that  it  would  be  very  pleasant  to  sit,  when  the 
weather  was  fine,  as  it  usually  is  on  the  Pacific. 


Peddling  Taru 

A  great  many  people  came  to  bid  their  friends 
good-by.  They  brought  with  them  all  kinds  of  leis. 
Some  were  of  tuberoses,  others  of  heHotrope,  scarlet 
hibiscus,  and  bright  yellow  ohias.     With  the  wreaths  of 


205 

flowers  were  long  garlands  of  the  sweet-smelling  maile. 
These  leis  and  garlands  were  placed  about  the  necks 
of  those  who  were  leaving,  and  were  even  twined  around 
their  arms  and  waists.  Mrs.  Earle  and  Alice  were  quite 
covered  with  them. 

At  last  the  gong  sounded  and  the  people  bade  each 
other  good-by.     The  band  on  the  deck  began  to  play 


Steamship  Australia 


"Auld  Lang  Syne"  and  many  eyes  were  filled  with 
tears. 

Alice  and  Mrs.  Earle  stood  at  the  side  of  the  ship 
and  waved  their  handkerchiefs  as  long  as  they  could 
see  the  faces  of  their  friends.  They  saw,  for  the  last 
time,  the  white  surf  beating  against  the  reef ;  the  villas 
along  the  curved  beach  at  Waikiki ;  Punchbowl,  and 
the  high,  bare  summit  of  Diamond  Head. 

After  they  had  passed  the  quarantine  station,  the 
passengers   threw   overboard   the   leis   of   flowers   and 


206 


maile,   not  because  they  did  not  value  them,  but  be- 
cause that  was  an  old  Hawaiian  custom. 

And  so  they  sailed  away,  looking  backward  toward 
the  island  until  they  left  far  behind  them  this  trail  of 
bright  blossoms  upon  the  smooth  blue  water. 


PRONUNCIATION   OF   HAWAIIAN   NAMES 
AND  TERMS 

A  is  sounded  as  in  far ;  ^  as  in  pr<?y  j  /  as  in  machme  ;  o  as 
in  ^Id ;  2^  as  in  rude ;  the  diphthong  m  like  /  in  fine ;  au  like 
ou  in  out.  The  consonants  have  the  same  sound  as  in  English. 
There  are  no  silent  letters.  ' 


ai'na. 

I-o-Ia'ni. 

ko'a. 

a-lo'ha. 

Ko-ha'la. 

a'wa. 

ka. 

Ko'ko. 

Ka-a-hu-ma'nu. 

Ko'ria. 

BoTci. 

Kai-lu'a. 

Ko-o-lau'. 

Kai-u-la'ni. 

ko'u. 

e'a. 

Ka-la-kau'a. 

Ko  u'la. 

Ka-lau-pa'pa. 

ku-hi'na  nu'i. 

Ha-a-li-li'o. 

Ka-la-wa'o. 

ku-ku'i. 

Ha-le-a-ka-la'. 

Ka-me-ha-me'ha. 

Ha-le-mau-mau'. 

Ka-nu'L 

La-hai'na. 

Ha-na-pe'pe. 

Ka-pi-o-la'ni. 

le'i. 

Ha-wai'i. 

ka'pu. 

Li-ho-li'ho. 

Hi'lo. 

Kau-ai'. 

Li-li'ha. 

ho-lo'ku. 

Kau-i'ke-a-o-uli. 

Li-li'u-o-ka-la'ni. 

Ho-no-li'i. 

Kau'po, 

Lo'na 

Ho-no-lu'lu. 

ka'va. 

lu-au'. 

Ho'pu. 

ke. 

ki-hi-kilii. 

Ma-hu-ko'na. 

i-a-i'a. 

Ki-lau-e'a. 

ma-i'le. 

I-a'o. 

Ki-nau'. 

Ma-ka-wa'o. 

207 


208 

mau.  o-he'lo.  ta'ro. 

Mau'i.  o-hi'a.  ti. 

Mau'na  Ke'a. 

Mau'na  Lo'a.  Pa'li.  u'a. 

Mo-lo-kai'.  Pau-a'hi.  ula. 

Pe'le. 

Ni-i-hau'.  po'i.  Wai-a-le-a'le. 

Nu-u-a'nu.  po'no.  Wai-ki'ki. 

Pu-na-ho'u,  Wai-ko'lu. 

0-a'hu.  Wai-lu'ku. 

0-bo-o-ki'ah.  ta'pa.  Wai-me'a. 


■fb  ouoZu 


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